[C38] Fw: Paint Job

[Charles Finn]

I painted the deck last spring.  This is a bigger job than it first 
looks as you should remove all deck fittings!  I left the lifeline 
stantions on as I had just re-set them last fall.  I might also consider 
leaving the car tracks on as they are a real pain to remove and re-set!  
I removed all the teak except the door molding, traveller, tracks, cabin 
sliding cover and it's cover, all winches, anchor locker door and 
hardware, vee-birth hatch, and all cleats, guides, etc.  While the teak 
was off, I stripped it and then went to Cetol (don't know how this will 
work in the long run, but it sure was easier to do a good job on the 
rails while they were off).  Do make sure you put the hundreds of 
screws, bolts, washers, lock washers, nuts, etc. in clearly marked 
baggies!  Remember that many of these bolts require one person in the 
cabin and one on the deck!   This is even more challenging if you decide 
to remove the tracks as bolt length varies.

I first tried using the non-skid paints, but quickly gave up as they 
don't seem to allow more than one or two brush strokes before the 
non-skid begins to clump....   and it takes a lot more than a couple 
strokes to work the paint into the existing tread.  I finally settled on 
a two-tone interlux topside paint scheme.  Seattle gray for the non-skid 
areas and a semi-gloss white for the rest.  Each coat took about a quart 
of each.

1.  Plan on at least two and better... 3 coats. 
2.  Be sure to meticulously clean the deck as any wax or whatever as the 
paint will look great for a couple weeks and then shed.  This was 
especially problematic around the cockpit drains (I have to put another 
coat in the cockpit in the spring).
3.  Be careful regarding choosing high gloss and the bright whites as 
they can blind you coming out of a shaded cabin! 
4. You should probably buy stock in 3M as you will be using many rolls 
of blue painters tape!  You have to tape twice (once for the non-skid 
areas and then the opposite for the smooth parts).  Be sure to wait at 
least a couple days before doing the second tape job as it will pull up 
the paint.
5.  I used a combination of 4 inch ultra-fine nap roller and high 
quality brush to make it over the large areas and get into the all the 
nooks and crannies along the rail.
6.  This is also a great time to fill any voids in your deck.  I had a 
large one around the mast that took over a liter of West Epoxy. 
7.  Be aware that all those holes in the deck have to be temporarly 
filled to keep out the rain.  It is even better to fill them with epoxy 
and re-drill, but I only did this where I found some leaking and rot.

This all took about 10 long work days over three trips to the boat.  I 
got a great tan.  The resulting surface was too slippery at first, but 
got better after about a month of sailing.  One thing I really hate 
right now is dropping anything on the deck as each scratch is like 
getting one on your new car!

Charles Finn
Mighty Quinn  #114

empty wrote:

>----- Original Message ----- 
>From: "empty" <empty1 at ntlworld.com>
>To: "Catalina 38 Listserve" <Listserve at catalina38.org>
>Sent: Tuesday, January 10, 2006 3:03 PM
>Subject: Paint Job
>
>
>  
>
>>Hi y'all,
>>
>>The Goose needs her deck and hull above the water li9ne repainting.
>>All advice, opinions and information from anyone who has done this
>>gratefully received.
>>I need to know things like how much time it takes for preparation and
>>painting, drying times between coats, how many coats any useful hints on
>>    
>>
>the
>  
>
>>best type of paint, etc.
>>
>>In Fact, anything and everything anyone has to offer
>>
>>Look forward to the flood of information
>>
>>Happy New Year everyone
>>
>>Mark Turner
>>C38 The Goose # 80
>>
>>    
>>
>
>
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