[C38] engine temp

Les hlhowell at pacbell.net
Thu Jul 12 02:05:12 EDT 2007


On Tue, 2007-07-10 at 11:54 -0700, William Knowles wrote:
> What is the normal operating temp for our unervisal
> engine? Last weekend I was running @ 1800 to 2100 rpm
> and engine slowly crept up to 210 to 225 f. Is this
> normal? We are pumping water and the impeller looks
> new. Would like to know your thoughts before calling
> in the  engine guys. I did not check the incoming
> filter as I could not get the plastic cover off and
> did want to break it away from home. Can I bypass the
> filter if I have to. Thanks in advance fior your help.
> 
> Bill Knowles Flying Goose
> 
> 
>  
This happened to Jace while we were doing the test sail.  Turned out the
heatexchanger had developed a leak.  Not a big one, but a small one
which released the pressure in the coolant.  Coolant and seawater mixed,
so the engine was still drawing cool water, but it was saltwater and not
antifreeze.  Just get the heat exchanger out and check it out.  Another
alternative is something partially blocking the seawater intake.  If the
strainer is clogged, and you are in mid=ocean, you should be able to
bypass it with no ill-effects, but watch it if  you get in seaweed or a
kelp forest, without a strainer you may chunk up the heatexchanger (that
is the round tube on the back side of your engine. It has tubes in it,
through which pass the collant, and around those tubes passes the
saltwater to take out the heat.  This little device replaces the
radiator that you have in your car, and prevents heat from building up
in the engine.)

	But you may have a problem at the hull.  Our boats have a brass shoe on
the outside of the hull, which is slotted and through which your raw
water (the salt water) pump draws cooling water.  Sometimes a jelly will
get sucked up in the darn thing and partially block it.  You can try
shutting down the engine (in a safe location to drift for a while or at
anchor) close the seacock, and remove the rubber hose.  Now this fitting
is under the water line, so what I am going to tell you to do will let
salt water into the boat, and it will spout up to the level of the water
line, abuot 1/2 way up the engine, but it is a "small hole", and the
bilge pump will take it all away.  So with that said, loosen both hose
clamps (there are two aren't there?) and remove the tubing.  Get a bit
of wire, about 1/8 inch in diameter and about 14-18" long.  Open the
valve and slide the wire down.  If this is blocked or partially blocked,
there won't be a spout, but rather a bubbling font of water.  after you
have the wire past the ball cock (that part that shuts off the seawater
flow) scratch around a bit and keep poking down,  You should be able to
remove the debris or clear the clog and get a nice 12" or so fountain
out of this through hull.  When this happens, remove the wire and close
the ball cock.  Replace the tubing and both hose clamps.  Open the
seacock again and check carefully for leaks.  Fix any you find.  Then
mop up, and with the seacock open start your engine.  It should cool
down and be OK.

Another place you can have a leak is the water heater.  It is plumbed to
the engine side of the heat exchanger,  This is a bit more serious.  IF
you have leakage back into the water heater, then you might end up with
antifreeze in your drinking water.  I don't know of any quick check.
Maybe someone on the list has a simple check.  Only thing I can think of
is to open the lines and see if your drinking water runs out?  Not too
good I think.  How about it guys?

Regards,
Les H 






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