[C38] Rudder post packing gland, my experiences.

[D. R. Strong]

In response to requests for my packing gland packing experiences. This 
is really fun stuff (sarcasm intended).

1.  I tried both the classical and the Teflon packing, and vastly prefer 
the latter. It is tougher, takes the abuse of insertion better, and it 
seems logical that the Teflon type should last longer. I don't remember 
the size of the packing material; middle size, not the largest or 
smallest. I removed the old stuff and the West Marine gal  helped me 
find the right size.   To save repeated trips, I bought three packages 
of  the two sizes that seemed right, then returned the unused. WM 
readily takes refunds with receipt (because they know that boat addicts 
cannot resist a purchase each and every time they enter the store).

2. I removed the old packing with a tiny screw driver. A trick taught me 
by Cree at Berkeley Marine Center is to make up your new material on the 
exposed rudder post, up by the tiller attachment (careful, don't let the 
rudder sink to the bottom of the marina when you remove the tiller 
handle attachment!). Or, you could mic the post and use another pipe of 
exactly the same diameter. Coil the new packing material around around 
the post three times. Cut through the coil on a 45 degree angle with a 
sharp razor blade; this must be pretty easy because I got it right the 
first time. The razoring of three wraps procedure gives you three 
perfect segments, all with good cut angles. Treat them carefully, 
especially the cut edges.

3. Grease the post and the new packing material just before you begin.  
This will allow the material to readily slide into the slot. I'm proud 
of having thought of this, but feel stupid that I labored for hours 
---butchering several packages of packing trying to get the material 
into the slot ---before the Lord delivered the grease idea on to me (pay 
off for memorizing the 23 Psalm at 8). I used water proof marine grease 
meant for bearings on boat trailer wheels.

4. Insert the coils with 66 degrees of rotation between the cuts, so as 
to isolate them maximally from each other.

5. Use the ring on the sliding, unfixed, bottom half  (bronze color 
above the green base in the photo below) of the gland as a hard tool to 
"force" ( = easy does it) the coils of packing material in. Twist, pull 
up, and tap gently (if needs be) on the sliding half with a small (!) 
hammer or wrench handle to urge the insertion of the coil. DONT TAP TOO  
HARD OR YOU WILL DEFORM THE UNIT. (Note, this is the point when your 
wife will leave the boat owing to the language used by her lover). Note 
that the packing material on Discreet Charm is inserted upward, into the 
glassed on, fixed, top half of the unit.

6. I worked from the cockpit, from the top, through the stern lazarette. 
If you know a 6 year old with really long arms and strong hands (older 
kids are too big) who will work from below, go for it. My first try 
(which failed because the insertion of the packing material was sloppy; 
edges did not line up) gave me a bad bruise across the chest at the 
point of contact between me and the rim of the lazarette. Place a thin 
cushion or towel between your chest and the on the rim of the lazarette 
to prevent this unpleasant trophy of packing gland replacement .

Love Don
 


-- 
Donald & Karin Strong
Discreet Charm
Catalina 38
San Fancisco Bay

-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://catalina38.org/pipermail/listserve_catalina38.org/attachments/20090729/7a659aab/attachment.htm>
-------------- next part --------------
A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
Name: moz-screenshot-371.jpg
Type: image/jpeg
Size: 26203 bytes
Desc: not available
URL: <http://catalina38.org/pipermail/listserve_catalina38.org/attachments/20090729/7a659aab/attachment.jpg>