[C38] cutlass bearing replacement

Glen Robinson g.a.robinson at sbcglobal.net
Mon Feb 9 12:45:36 EST 2009


(This is on topic, but perhaps somewhat lengthy for what I believe to be necessary details.)
 
Right after purchasing, we hauled SNOWBIRD.  The yard foreman told me that the ribs in the cutlass bearing were filled with calcium and salt deposits which would impede water flow for lubrication and lead to bearing failure.  As we were preparing to cruise to the wilderness of Mexico, and wanted everything top-notch, the bearing was replaced.  I observed what seemed excessive pounding with a drift to drive the new bearing the last 1/2' into the strut, but presumed they knew what they were doing.
Fast forward to mid-November in Bahia Muertos, Baja Mexico, some 1200 miles later.  Buddy boating with 2 others, we hauled anchor at midnight for the 120 mile upwind motor-sail to La Paz.  It was moonless and dark, 15-20K wind, & rough, choppy seas.  As we turned north out of Muertos we developed a severe, noisy vibration, which we determined to be the cutlass bearing.  What to do?  It is a sailboat, after all.  Moreover, it's a C-38, probably the very best boat in the Baja for a tough weatherly leg.  We simply killed the engine, unrolled a bit of the 135 jib, and beat into La Paz.  The boat was hauled, the shaft pulled, checked for true on a lathe, replaced, with the engine micro-critically aligned, & the cutlass bearing replaced, including a set screw, which was tapped into the strut housing.  (Again I observed what I believed excessive pounding to seat the bearing into the strut).  After launching the shaft coupling was fine-tuned
 for alignment.
As we were embarking on a cruise up the often-remote inside of the Baja, and the cutlass bearing appeared chronic, I purchased a Sears teflon-sealed paint compressor and had a Mexican dive shop build a houka with a 50' hose.  I then drew up a design for a cutlass bearing puller/reinstaller, which used a split sleeve, 2 collars, 2-18" pieces of 3/8" althread (turned from square stock) all of which was fabricated from stainless at the old Pepsi Plant.  I also bought 3 additional cutlass bearings.
About 250 miles later, while anchorage-hopping up the now windless Baja peninsula with Bob & Judy on AMAZING GRACE, the bearing went out.  Bob, a retired diesel mechanic, towed us the last 7 miles into Agua Verde.  At anchor the next day, I fired up the compressor, Bob put on the houka, I donned snorkel mask & fins & we dove in.  Working in the water, we removed the prop then pressed out the bearing.  As I had never even tried it, we were delighted at the puller, even though it took us a little over 4 hours, due to the conditions and Bob's insistence that we keep the pressure even on the althreads.  The next day, after filing out the distortion in the strut housing caused by the set screw installation (the pressure point from the set screw seemed to be the origin of the bearing failure) we installed the new bearing, pressing it into place agonizingly slow--again due to the conditions and Bob's insistence that everything be advanced evenly
 and precisely.  It took only about 3 hours, and we motor-sailed the Sea of Cortez the rest of the season, then trucked SNOWBIRD back to Stockton, CA.
I went to the Catalina factory, where all were mystified at my problem.  I also posted on this forum, where all were mystified at my problem.  At Catalina's suggestion I hauled & replaced the shaft with a new stainless shaft & new coupling.  I then replaced (pulled and reinstalled--very slowly and carefully, using my puller and no pounding!) the cutlass bearing.  Examination of the old bearing showed absolutely no sign of wear--even after several hundred miles since its' underwater installation.
In over 9 years and several hundred miles of Delta and coastal motoring since, I have had no more cutlass bearing incidents.
My observations/conclusions:
1.  Coupling alignment is critical, & must be done with the boat in the water, and not in a yard cradle.
2.  Always supervise all phases of removal and reinstallation of your cutlass bearing.  If they must pound it, something probably is wrong  (An exception may be where a tube can be used--to apply the force evenly on the bearing).
3.  When long-distance cruising, always plan for the worst-case scenario--especially with critical systems and components showing tendancy to fail.
4.  Stainless is great--except for bolts and nuts under pressure.  It WILL gall and seize (as mine did.  Probably, without the lubrication of the water, mine would have failed, entirely).  The althread now is brass.  Thankfully, I have not had to test its effectiveness.
5.  Houka rigs must be considered cautiously.  While still employed in Mexico, oil-sealed compressors must not be used. as they can cause serious injury.  After study, I used a teflon-sealed compressor, but would advise doing your own research before getting any of them.  Also be sure to have a good, clean air intake supply (e.g. away from diesel exhaust.  Seems obvious, I know, but still worth the reminder). 
Here's hoping you enjoy your cruising and sailing hours as much as we did.
glen
SNOWBIRD
C-38 
 
--- On Sun, 2/8/09, bob gouley <r.gouley at sympatico.ca> wrote:

From: bob gouley <r.gouley at sympatico.ca>
Subject: [C38] cutlass bearing replacement
To: listserve at catalina38.org
Date: Sunday, February 8, 2009, 6:40 PM





     I slid the prop shaft past the rudder no problem. I used a hack say with the blade turned upside down to cut the old bearing and removed with a pair of pliers.  The new bearing was pressed into place using a 14 in long by half inch  thick threaded rod with large washers and nuts on both ends. remove the nut from one end and place the bearing onto the rod, slide the bearing through the strut.  Place the washer and nut back on the end of the rod and tighten the nuts pressing the bearing into the strut.  It helps to freeze the bearing first, you should not heat the strut.  I beveled the end of the prop shaft so it would not damage the inside rubber of the bearing as I pushed the prop shaft through the strut, stern tube and into the coupling. That is how I did it hope this helps. 
 
bob gouley
st joseph island
ontario canada
zephyr
hull # 142 
r.gouley at sympatico.ca _______________________________________________
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