[C38] Listserve Digest, Vol 5, Issue 62 (alden traveler)

alden Andre alden at clifforddevelopmentgroup.com
Sun Mar 22 17:22:56 EDT 2009


Traveler, Steve you can buy one from garhour, personlally I would put a
strait on on vs curved attached are some pics of mine and I used wood
blocks that had the same holes as the curved ones. I don't like the new
ones that have the big block and tackle affair that are on the new boats
the sheet lines get hung up on them to much. I found this out last year
bringing a new 380 up from the bay area to portland. Now the newest
version that has a single line works great I tried it on a new 387 in 28
kts of wind and it had great power moving the traveler. 

Alden

-----Original Message-----
From: listserve-bounces at catalina38.org
[mailto:listserve-bounces at catalina38.org] On Behalf Of
listserve-request at catalina38.org
Sent: Sunday, March 22, 2009 1:26 PM
To: listserve at catalina38.org
Subject: Listserve Digest, Vol 5, Issue 62

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	listserve at catalina38.org

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Today's Topics:

   1. Travelers (Steve Smolinske)
   2. Re: Listserve Digest, Vol 5,	Issue 61(cutlass bearing strut)
      Alden Andre (alden Andre)
   3. Re: Travelers (Phil Gay)
   4. Re: Listserve Digest, Vol 5,	Issue 61(cutlass bearing strut)
      Alden Andre (Phil Gay)


----------------------------------------------------------------------

Message: 1
Date: Sun, 22 Mar 2009 12:24:34 -0700
From: "Steve Smolinske" <SSmolinske at rainierrubber.com>
Subject: [C38] Travelers
To: "Catalina 38 Listserve" <listserve at catalina38.org>
Message-ID: <392501BCC93AAC4EA94D28D8DB159922086D1A at sockeye.4M.local>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

My Traveler gave up the ghost yesterday, I believe it is original
equipment.   Does anyone know if a replacement is available or do I need
to upgrade and replace the track?  I couldnt find one on Catalina Direct
and there are no markings as far as part number or manufacturer.   If it
comes to replacing the system, what are your suggestions and experiences
with other systems.  I'm not excited about filling the old holes and
drilling new ones the other problem is my dodger was made around the
current lead positions for the traveler controller lines.  Thanks.
 
Steve
Peregrine #312
Seattle
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Message: 2
Date: Sun, 22 Mar 2009 16:13:47 -0400
From: "alden Andre" <alden at clifforddevelopmentgroup.com>
Subject: Re: [C38] Listserve Digest, Vol 5,	Issue 61(cutlass bearing
	strut) Alden Andre
To: <listserve at catalina38.org>
Message-ID:
	
<1AF1562D40820B4982FFC49803D5EF691547AF at cdl01tol.CLIFFORDDEVELOPMENTGROU
P.LOCAL>
	
Content-Type: text/plain;	charset="US-ASCII"

(cutlass Bearing Strut) I am confused on that everyone says that it is
glassed into the bottom of the hull. Mine is not the tabs are on the out
side and 3 bolts holding it on. I can send some pictures if you would
like to see. Alden Andre.
(ELECTRICAL) My boat had a large battery box installed when I purchased
it. I also have two battries under the rh Setee and a start battery in
the Lazerete. I am thinking of removeing the two batteries under the
settee because I never use them. I have a bremar hyd motor auto pilot
and it dosnt seem to use much power. Probably because I hardly use it. 

Alden

-----Original Message-----
From: listserve-bounces at catalina38.org
[mailto:listserve-bounces at catalina38.org] On Behalf Of
listserve-request at catalina38.org
Sent: Sunday, March 22, 2009 9:00 AM
To: listserve at catalina38.org
Subject: Listserve Digest, Vol 5, Issue 61

Send Listserve mailing list submissions to
	listserve at catalina38.org

To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
	http://catalina38.org/mailman/listinfo/listserve_catalina38.org
or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
	listserve-request at catalina38.org

You can reach the person managing the list at
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When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
than "Re: Contents of Listserve digest..."


Today's Topics:

   1. Re: cutlass bearing strut (maxsoto at gmail.com)
   2. Re: Battery box rebuild (Les)


----------------------------------------------------------------------

Message: 1
Date: Sat, 21 Mar 2009 15:16:00 +1015
From: <maxsoto at gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [C38] cutlass bearing strut
To: Catalina 38 Listserve <listserve at catalina38.org>
Message-ID: <49c55933.18038e0a.7f87.ffffb83f at mx.google.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="ISO-8859-1"

Hi kerry,
I'm pretty sure it is bolted by four or six 1/4" screws. You'll be able
to see the nuts from inside the hull right after the water heater. Also,
if I'm not mistaken, somodels have it just fiberglassed to the hull.
I'll send later a couple of tech sheets for the strut that I get from
Catalina.
Regards,


Max Soto

-----Mensaje original-----

            De: littlebreeze at comcast.net
Asun:Re: [C38] cutlass bearing strut
      Fecha: S?b 21 Mar 2009 1:28 pm
Tama?o: 1K
              A: Catalina 38 Listserve <listserve at catalina38.org>

Max 

Are you sure it is bolted or is it just glassed in place? 

Kerry Grimes 
C-38 #139 
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Max Soto" <maxsoto at gmail.com> 
To: "bob gouley" <r.gouley at sympatico.ca>, "Catalina 38 Listserve"
<listserve at catalina38.org> 
Sent: Friday, March 20, 2009 10:38:18 AM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific 
Subject: Re: [C38] cutlass bearing strut 


Hi Bob, 

The strut goes inside the hull about four more inches. The strut base is
curved and is thru bolted to the hull, and then covered with filler.
Because of it's unique shape, you should contact Catalina Yachts or
maybe Catalina Direct. 

Regards, 

Max Soto 
C38 #198 ESTANCIA 
Puntarenas, Costa Rica 




2009/3/20 bob gouley < r.gouley at sympatico.ca > 




Gentlemen, when I bought my 38 two years ago I knew it had a crack in
the strut and it had been braize welded. It is still holding firm, but I
would like to find a replacement strut, so I can change it out in the
future. I don`t know how long the strut is, as it is set in fiberglass.
the angle of the strut is 11.5 degrees and takes a 1 in and a quarter
cutlass bearing for the 1 in propeler shaft. Any one know were I can
find one of these bronze struts or something suitable as a replacement.
thanks bob 

r.gouley at sympatico.ca 
Zephyr # 142 
hilton beach marina 
st joseph island 

--- Mensaje truncado ---





------------------------------

Message: 2
Date: Sat, 21 Mar 2009 14:44:00 -0700
From: Les <hlhowell at pacbell.net>
Subject: Re: [C38] Battery box rebuild
To: tdtron at earthlink.net, Catalina 38 Listserve
	<listserve at catalina38.org>
Message-ID: <1237671840.20237.9.camel at localhost.localdomain>
Content-Type: text/plain

Hi, Tom,
	I changed out the engine to a Universal XP25B, and it has the
voltmeter
on its control panel.  

	I had already made the change on my old power panel.  I never
liked
high amperage running to the power panel in the first place.  

	One note to others with the XP25B mod in mind, the standard
alternator
is a 35A, and the connection wire from it to the starter (the positive
common on all most all engine installations) is a #10 wire buried in the
wiring harness.  Mine burnt and opened, so I lost charging current.  I
noticed it right away, but didn't see the problem, so I thought the
alternator had failed.  Brian Tansey of Mechanical Marine diagnosed the
problem and repaired it, but it was quite expensive because the
alternator had to be removed to access the wiring harness and remove and
replace the wire to the alternator.  I had them put the new wire on the
outside of the harness (such a high current wire should not be inside a
wire bundle anyway).

	I also changed the autopilot.  Mine was less than reliable due
to
weakness in the mount for the servo, so I replaced the Autohelm with a
WheelPilot.  It is a neat installation, and designed to fit the Edson
Pedestal.  It works great, and I use an Eagle chart plotter at the
wheel.  It can use the Navionics charts, and seems spot on.

	I fabricated a mount for the eagle out of mahogheny and it
clamps to
the pedestal guard.  It is designed so I can swivel it around and watch
it from the dodger.  The wheel pilot has a remote and I can steer from
the dodger as well.  This arrangement has suited us quite well over the
last couple of years.

	I am wiring up a new power panel this weekend, and it will be
ready to
install by Monday or Tuesday I hope.

Regards,
Les H

On Fri, 2009-03-20 at 20:27 -0400, Tom T. wrote:
> Hi Les,
> 
> I just enlarged my battery box to hold two group 31 batteries instead
of
> the smaller original group 24s.  I fabricated a common hold down clamp
> instead of using nylon straps but that is a minor issue.  You will get
more
> amp hours from the golf cart batteries than using group 31s but I'm
sure
> the project will be more complicated.  If you still have an amp meter
on
> your engine panel, you will gain a lot of engine charging if you
replace
> the amp meter with a voltmeter and run the alternator output to the
> batteries instead of to the engine panel.  This is a highly
recommended
> Catalina upgrade for both safety and charging performance.  I think I
may
> still have the information that I wrote for Mainsheet some time back
> detailing the conversion.
> 
> It seems you have put a lot of thought in your electric needs but I do
have
> one other suggestion that regards the auto pilot.
> 
> If you use a bungee cord on the wheel to neutralize the helm, it will
> almost eliminate the current needs of the auto pilot.  When I first
tried
> this, my servo motor was hot to the touch.  After using a bungee cord,
the
> motor cooled to near ambient temperature and almost no load on my
battery,
> even in rough seas.  The bungee will increase your battery life as
well as
> take wear and tear off of the expensive steering servo motor which
will
> fail if allowed to overheat.  The nylon gears tend to melt without the
> bungee if you run the auto helm with a lot of weather helm like
reaching in
> heavy seas.
> 
> Good luck,
> Tom Troncalli
> Renata #95
> 
> 
> > [Original Message]
> > From: Les <hlhowell at pacbell.net>
> > To: <Listserve at catalina38.org>
> > Date: 3/20/2009 4:03:12 PM
> > Subject: [C38] Battery box rebuild
> >
> > Hi, everyone,
> > 	I am finally ready to do my rewiring project.  The first thing I
want
> > to do is modify the battery box to accept 4 golf cart batteries.  I
seem
> > to remember that someone said they had already done this, so I am
> > looking for pictures/process to help me avoid mistakes.
> >
> > 	I think from my measurements that the box needs to stretch about
2.5"
> > port to starboard, and I can rip out the 2" or so divider, and
replace
> > it with about a 3/4" inch one in that new dimension.  This would
move
> > the inboard battery about 3-3.5" beneath the current seat edge, so
that
> > would probably have to change as well.  I think I could probably
just
> > cut the new desired dimension out of the top, remove the large end
of
> > the box and extend it 1.5".  However this may encounter some issues
as
> > it approaches the truncated end of the settee by the galley cabinet.
> >
> > 	The center divider could be cut out, and fiberglass tape used to
repair
> > the box bottom, with a new divider tabbed in place by the same
method.
> > Probably 1/2" marine ply covered with a layer or two of cloth or
tape.
> > The outboard end would be stretched 1-2" and re-attached with glass
tape
> > as well.  This would give me a box that measured about 22.5" 
> > by 16" and the batteries are 10" by 7", so they would fit with some
room
> > to spare.  Nylon straps across the battery tops would hold them in
> > place.
> >
> > I plan to add bus bars as well to make the connections cleaner.  I
no
> > longer have a batterycharger there because I have two 65Watt solar
> > panels to maintain the batteries.  This gives me a charge current at
> > just under 9A peak, and here in CA, this gives me about 50AH/day.
This
> > seems to be enough to let me run the refer with no impact.  At
anchor I
> > would have to run the engine about 4 hours every 5th day to
replenish
> > the house draw (we're relatively frugal on power).  We use about 4
> > lights during meal times (6A for 2 hours) and 2 lamps for reading
(3A
> > for 3-4 hours).
> >
> > Under sail, the autopilot draws about 1.2A, so it would deplete the
> > battery in about 50 hours with the instruments and refer running at
the
> > same time, so about every other day for 4 hours when under sail and
auto
> > pilot full time.
> >
> > 	My total instrumentation is a knotmeter, a depth sounder, GPS,
VHF, and
> > Autopilot.  The knotmeter is very low drain, the depth sounder about
> > 0.25A average, and the GPS is about 0.75A in daylight, a bit higher
at
> > night.  The vhf draws about 0.25 in standby.  Thus my total draw is
> > about 2.25A continuous underway under sail, and add about 2A for
running
> > lights at night (we are coastal sailors and don't do much night
> > sailing).
> >
> > 	My engine has a 35A alternator which seems adequate (the
batteries
> > typically drop to bulk at about 12A after 20min run time.)
> >
> > So how does this measure up to those with more experience?
> >
> > Regards,
> > Les H
> >
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > Listserve mailing list
> > Listserve at catalina38.org
> > http://catalina38.org/mailman/listinfo/listserve_catalina38.org
> 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Listserve mailing list
> Listserve at catalina38.org
> http://catalina38.org/mailman/listinfo/listserve_catalina38.org




------------------------------

_______________________________________________
Listserve mailing list
Listserve at catalina38.org
http://catalina38.org/mailman/listinfo/listserve_catalina38.org


End of Listserve Digest, Vol 5, Issue 61
****************************************



------------------------------

Message: 3
Date: Sun, 22 Mar 2009 13:16:45 -0700
From: "Phil Gay" <eyriepg at comcast.net>
Subject: Re: [C38] Travelers
To: "'Catalina 38 Listserve'" <listserve at catalina38.org>
Message-ID: <000901c9ab2b$1febcba0$5fc362e0$@net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

I knew the previous owner on Don's boat Discrete Charm(C38 050).  He had
Garhauer make him a modern ball bearing traveler with the arched
traveler
shape in most C38's.   The Garhauer techs are very easy to work with.

 

Phil Gay

C38 049 Que Linda

Everett, WA

 

From: listserve-bounces at catalina38.org
[mailto:listserve-bounces at catalina38.org] On Behalf Of Steve Smolinske
Sent: Sunday, March 22, 2009 12:25 PM
To: Catalina 38 Listserve
Subject: [C38] Travelers

 

My Traveler gave up the ghost yesterday, I believe it is original
equipment.
Does anyone know if a replacement is available or do I need to upgrade
and
replace the track?  I couldnt find one on Catalina Direct and there are
no
markings as far as part number or manufacturer.   If it comes to
replacing
the system, what are your suggestions and experiences with other
systems.
I'm not excited about filling the old holes and drilling new ones the
other
problem is my dodger was made around the current lead positions for the
traveler controller lines.  Thanks.

 

Steve

Peregrine #312

Seattle

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Message: 4
Date: Sun, 22 Mar 2009 13:21:08 -0700
From: "Phil Gay" <eyriepg at comcast.net>
Subject: Re: [C38] Listserve Digest, Vol 5,	Issue 61(cutlass bearing
	strut) Alden Andre
To: "'Catalina 38 Listserve'" <listserve at catalina38.org>
Message-ID: <000e01c9ab2b$bc6a3430$353e9c90$@net>
Content-Type: text/plain;	charset="us-ascii"

Alden,

There were several changes to our boats in 1982.  For example the area
under
the sink and also where the batteries are housed is larger on 1982  and
later boats.  It will be easier to increase battery capacity on these
boats.
Also this may have been the time that the struts were changed.  I
believe my
1980 boat has a glassed in strut.  It was straightened and reglassed in
1998
right after I bought it.

Phil Gay
C38 049 Que Linda
Everett, WA

-----Original Message-----
From: listserve-bounces at catalina38.org
[mailto:listserve-bounces at catalina38.org] On Behalf Of alden Andre
Sent: Sunday, March 22, 2009 1:14 PM
To: listserve at catalina38.org
Subject: Re: [C38] Listserve Digest, Vol 5, Issue 61(cutlass bearing
strut)
Alden Andre

(cutlass Bearing Strut) I am confused on that everyone says that it is
glassed into the bottom of the hull. Mine is not the tabs are on the out
side and 3 bolts holding it on. I can send some pictures if you would
like to see. Alden Andre.
(ELECTRICAL) My boat had a large battery box installed when I purchased
it. I also have two battries under the rh Setee and a start battery in
the Lazerete. I am thinking of removeing the two batteries under the
settee because I never use them. I have a bremar hyd motor auto pilot
and it dosnt seem to use much power. Probably because I hardly use it. 

Alden

-----Original Message-----
From: listserve-bounces at catalina38.org
[mailto:listserve-bounces at catalina38.org] On Behalf Of
listserve-request at catalina38.org
Sent: Sunday, March 22, 2009 9:00 AM
To: listserve at catalina38.org
Subject: Listserve Digest, Vol 5, Issue 61

Send Listserve mailing list submissions to
	listserve at catalina38.org

To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
	http://catalina38.org/mailman/listinfo/listserve_catalina38.org
or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
	listserve-request at catalina38.org

You can reach the person managing the list at
	listserve-owner at catalina38.org

When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
than "Re: Contents of Listserve digest..."


Today's Topics:

   1. Re: cutlass bearing strut (maxsoto at gmail.com)
   2. Re: Battery box rebuild (Les)


----------------------------------------------------------------------

Message: 1
Date: Sat, 21 Mar 2009 15:16:00 +1015
From: <maxsoto at gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [C38] cutlass bearing strut
To: Catalina 38 Listserve <listserve at catalina38.org>
Message-ID: <49c55933.18038e0a.7f87.ffffb83f at mx.google.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="ISO-8859-1"

Hi kerry,
I'm pretty sure it is bolted by four or six 1/4" screws. You'll be able
to see the nuts from inside the hull right after the water heater. Also,
if I'm not mistaken, somodels have it just fiberglassed to the hull.
I'll send later a couple of tech sheets for the strut that I get from
Catalina.
Regards,


Max Soto

-----Mensaje original-----

            De: littlebreeze at comcast.net
Asun:Re: [C38] cutlass bearing strut
      Fecha: S?b 21 Mar 2009 1:28 pm
Tama?o: 1K
              A: Catalina 38 Listserve <listserve at catalina38.org>

Max 

Are you sure it is bolted or is it just glassed in place? 

Kerry Grimes 
C-38 #139 
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Max Soto" <maxsoto at gmail.com> 
To: "bob gouley" <r.gouley at sympatico.ca>, "Catalina 38 Listserve"
<listserve at catalina38.org> 
Sent: Friday, March 20, 2009 10:38:18 AM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific 
Subject: Re: [C38] cutlass bearing strut 


Hi Bob, 

The strut goes inside the hull about four more inches. The strut base is
curved and is thru bolted to the hull, and then covered with filler.
Because of it's unique shape, you should contact Catalina Yachts or
maybe Catalina Direct. 

Regards, 

Max Soto 
C38 #198 ESTANCIA 
Puntarenas, Costa Rica 




2009/3/20 bob gouley < r.gouley at sympatico.ca > 




Gentlemen, when I bought my 38 two years ago I knew it had a crack in
the strut and it had been braize welded. It is still holding firm, but I
would like to find a replacement strut, so I can change it out in the
future. I don`t know how long the strut is, as it is set in fiberglass.
the angle of the strut is 11.5 degrees and takes a 1 in and a quarter
cutlass bearing for the 1 in propeler shaft. Any one know were I can
find one of these bronze struts or something suitable as a replacement.
thanks bob 

r.gouley at sympatico.ca 
Zephyr # 142 
hilton beach marina 
st joseph island 

--- Mensaje truncado ---





------------------------------

Message: 2
Date: Sat, 21 Mar 2009 14:44:00 -0700
From: Les <hlhowell at pacbell.net>
Subject: Re: [C38] Battery box rebuild
To: tdtron at earthlink.net, Catalina 38 Listserve
	<listserve at catalina38.org>
Message-ID: <1237671840.20237.9.camel at localhost.localdomain>
Content-Type: text/plain

Hi, Tom,
	I changed out the engine to a Universal XP25B, and it has the
voltmeter
on its control panel.  

	I had already made the change on my old power panel.  I never
liked
high amperage running to the power panel in the first place.  

	One note to others with the XP25B mod in mind, the standard
alternator
is a 35A, and the connection wire from it to the starter (the positive
common on all most all engine installations) is a #10 wire buried in the
wiring harness.  Mine burnt and opened, so I lost charging current.  I
noticed it right away, but didn't see the problem, so I thought the
alternator had failed.  Brian Tansey of Mechanical Marine diagnosed the
problem and repaired it, but it was quite expensive because the
alternator had to be removed to access the wiring harness and remove and
replace the wire to the alternator.  I had them put the new wire on the
outside of the harness (such a high current wire should not be inside a
wire bundle anyway).

	I also changed the autopilot.  Mine was less than reliable due
to
weakness in the mount for the servo, so I replaced the Autohelm with a
WheelPilot.  It is a neat installation, and designed to fit the Edson
Pedestal.  It works great, and I use an Eagle chart plotter at the
wheel.  It can use the Navionics charts, and seems spot on.

	I fabricated a mount for the eagle out of mahogheny and it
clamps to
the pedestal guard.  It is designed so I can swivel it around and watch
it from the dodger.  The wheel pilot has a remote and I can steer from
the dodger as well.  This arrangement has suited us quite well over the
last couple of years.

	I am wiring up a new power panel this weekend, and it will be
ready to
install by Monday or Tuesday I hope.

Regards,
Les H

On Fri, 2009-03-20 at 20:27 -0400, Tom T. wrote:
> Hi Les,
> 
> I just enlarged my battery box to hold two group 31 batteries instead
of
> the smaller original group 24s.  I fabricated a common hold down clamp
> instead of using nylon straps but that is a minor issue.  You will get
more
> amp hours from the golf cart batteries than using group 31s but I'm
sure
> the project will be more complicated.  If you still have an amp meter
on
> your engine panel, you will gain a lot of engine charging if you
replace
> the amp meter with a voltmeter and run the alternator output to the
> batteries instead of to the engine panel.  This is a highly
recommended
> Catalina upgrade for both safety and charging performance.  I think I
may
> still have the information that I wrote for Mainsheet some time back
> detailing the conversion.
> 
> It seems you have put a lot of thought in your electric needs but I do
have
> one other suggestion that regards the auto pilot.
> 
> If you use a bungee cord on the wheel to neutralize the helm, it will
> almost eliminate the current needs of the auto pilot.  When I first
tried
> this, my servo motor was hot to the touch.  After using a bungee cord,
the
> motor cooled to near ambient temperature and almost no load on my
battery,
> even in rough seas.  The bungee will increase your battery life as
well as
> take wear and tear off of the expensive steering servo motor which
will
> fail if allowed to overheat.  The nylon gears tend to melt without the
> bungee if you run the auto helm with a lot of weather helm like
reaching in
> heavy seas.
> 
> Good luck,
> Tom Troncalli
> Renata #95
> 
> 
> > [Original Message]
> > From: Les <hlhowell at pacbell.net>
> > To: <Listserve at catalina38.org>
> > Date: 3/20/2009 4:03:12 PM
> > Subject: [C38] Battery box rebuild
> >
> > Hi, everyone,
> > 	I am finally ready to do my rewiring project.  The first thing I
want
> > to do is modify the battery box to accept 4 golf cart batteries.  I
seem
> > to remember that someone said they had already done this, so I am
> > looking for pictures/process to help me avoid mistakes.
> >
> > 	I think from my measurements that the box needs to stretch about
2.5"
> > port to starboard, and I can rip out the 2" or so divider, and
replace
> > it with about a 3/4" inch one in that new dimension.  This would
move
> > the inboard battery about 3-3.5" beneath the current seat edge, so
that
> > would probably have to change as well.  I think I could probably
just
> > cut the new desired dimension out of the top, remove the large end
of
> > the box and extend it 1.5".  However this may encounter some issues
as
> > it approaches the truncated end of the settee by the galley cabinet.
> >
> > 	The center divider could be cut out, and fiberglass tape used to
repair
> > the box bottom, with a new divider tabbed in place by the same
method.
> > Probably 1/2" marine ply covered with a layer or two of cloth or
tape.
> > The outboard end would be stretched 1-2" and re-attached with glass
tape
> > as well.  This would give me a box that measured about 22.5" 
> > by 16" and the batteries are 10" by 7", so they would fit with some
room
> > to spare.  Nylon straps across the battery tops would hold them in
> > place.
> >
> > I plan to add bus bars as well to make the connections cleaner.  I
no
> > longer have a batterycharger there because I have two 65Watt solar
> > panels to maintain the batteries.  This gives me a charge current at
> > just under 9A peak, and here in CA, this gives me about 50AH/day.
This
> > seems to be enough to let me run the refer with no impact.  At
anchor I
> > would have to run the engine about 4 hours every 5th day to
replenish
> > the house draw (we're relatively frugal on power).  We use about 4
> > lights during meal times (6A for 2 hours) and 2 lamps for reading
(3A
> > for 3-4 hours).
> >
> > Under sail, the autopilot draws about 1.2A, so it would deplete the
> > battery in about 50 hours with the instruments and refer running at
the
> > same time, so about every other day for 4 hours when under sail and
auto
> > pilot full time.
> >
> > 	My total instrumentation is a knotmeter, a depth sounder, GPS,
VHF, and
> > Autopilot.  The knotmeter is very low drain, the depth sounder about
> > 0.25A average, and the GPS is about 0.75A in daylight, a bit higher
at
> > night.  The vhf draws about 0.25 in standby.  Thus my total draw is
> > about 2.25A continuous underway under sail, and add about 2A for
running
> > lights at night (we are coastal sailors and don't do much night
> > sailing).
> >
> > 	My engine has a 35A alternator which seems adequate (the
batteries
> > typically drop to bulk at about 12A after 20min run time.)
> >
> > So how does this measure up to those with more experience?
> >
> > Regards,
> > Les H
> >
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > Listserve mailing list
> > Listserve at catalina38.org
> > http://catalina38.org/mailman/listinfo/listserve_catalina38.org
> 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Listserve mailing list
> Listserve at catalina38.org
> http://catalina38.org/mailman/listinfo/listserve_catalina38.org




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