[C38] Alternator and charging

[Steve Smolinske]

Thanks Tom, 
 
How does this sound,   Alternator output to Starter then on to the
battery selector switch,  The red and orange wires in the harness then
are obsolete and unconnected.  For the Voltmeter leave it connected to
the key switch and a ground.   The voltmeter should then work when the
ignition is on, and the batteries will charge through the selector
switch and ACR.  
 
Steve
 

________________________________

From: listserve-bounces at catalina38.org
[mailto:listserve-bounces at catalina38.org] On Behalf Of Tom T.
Sent: Monday, June 29, 2009 3:28 PM
To: Catalina 38 Listserve
Subject: Re: [C38] Alternator and charging


 
 
Hello Steve,
 
You are correct.  The 30 amp fuse in your charging circuit is too small
to carry the load if the batteries are discharged or you are running
other high load applications.  I expect they may be using a small fuse
to try to reduce the maximum load on the wiring harness which has been a
problem in the past.
 
To carry a high amperage load to your engine control panel is not only a
lot of electrical loss but it can be dangerous if your harness
connections are corroded.  There have been many original engine control
harnesses burned up because of the high load on the amp meter wires in
that harness.
 
The amp meter isn't needed anyway.  You can have an amp meter showing a
lot of amps but if your battery bank is shorted, you will only be
creating heat on the harness and load on your engine but a shorted
battery will never charge with the amp meter giving you a false sense of
security.   A volt meter gives a better idea of your charging and
battery conditions.
 
A more practical solution to the amp meter is to replace the original
amp meter with a marine grade volt meter.  To do this, you run the
output of the alternator directly to your battery banks and use the
original wires to the amp meter to feed a new volt meter.  You can run
the feed to the volt meter from the positive side of the starter
solenoid since it is very close to the alternator making a very easy
conversion.
 
The volt meter conversion is a very good and highly recommended upgrade.
It will make your boat safer and your alternator will perform better
because more output will go to the battery bank instead of wasted in
heat loss in the harness and possible faulty connectors.
 
Fuse the wire that you run from the solenoid to the new volt meter.
There will be very little current on that wire now so even a small fuse
like 5 amps will do fine.  The fuse should be very close to the
alternator for safety.  
 
It has been a long time since I made this modification on my boat but I
believe the harness wire used for the volt meter conversion is an orange
wire.  I wrote an article for Mainsheet several years ago about this
conversion but I don't remember what year or month it was but I'm sure I
can find a draft copy in my archives if you need it, just let me know
and I'll look for it.
 
Good luck,
 
Tom Troncalli
Renata (Hull #95)

	----- Original Message ----- 
	From: Steve Smolinske <mailto:SSmolinske at rainierrubber.com>  
	To: Catalina 38 Listserve <mailto:listserve at catalina38.org> 
	Sent: 6/29/2009 4:35:25 PM 
	Subject: [C38] Alternator and charging

	
	Tom T, I'm hoping you can add some insight on this.   I
suspected my system wasn't charging so I took the alternator and starter
off and had them both tested, they are fine, and since there off I took
the precaution to have the regulator, brushes and contacts replaced.
Going over the wiring diagram for the M30 They call out #10 wire with a
30 amp fuse inline from the amp meter to the Starter Solenoid.  Knowing
that a regulator varies charge based on battery condition/charge and rpm
isn't a 30 amp fuse undersized, and why a fuse anyway, shouldn't the
wire be sized correctly to handle the highest load the system would see.

	 
	 
	Steve Smolinske
	President
	 
	4M Company, Inc.
	15660 Nelson Place South
	Seattle, WA  98188
	425-227-4500
	www.rainierrubber.com <http://www.rainierrubber.com/> 
	
	 
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