[C38] Rudder post packing gland, must remove steering quadrant

Marc Stewart mstewart at sounddsl.com
Sun Aug 16 10:37:21 EDT 2009


For what it's worth - I recently did business with Signet and am  
reasonably happy.  My depth transducer temperature sensor had shorted  
out causing my single/combined indicator to fail completely.  Signet  
has a new system that improves the flexibility of adding remote  
indicators and many other types of indicators about ones boat.  Not  
interested in doing that, I was taken aback by the fact that now, to  
get speed and depth, it requires THREE (expensive at a few hundred $  
apiece) boxes where I had been using one - a box for each sensor  
system and a central display box.  Talking this through with Aaron  
Hall 310.320.4349 Ext 22, he suggested that I simply buy a new  
transducer that plugs into my 15+ year old indicator box.  Not only  
does it work, but he suggested affixing it to the hull inboard with  
silicone vice hauling the boat (which I didn't have time to do  
because of a 10-day Desolation Sound cruise I'd planned).     It  
works just great - and I lived by it in new waters for 10 days.
Marc

On Aug 15, 2009, at 9:35 PM, PAUL NOTTE wrote:

> I'm thinking of removing the pedestal this winter to have it re  
> powder coated or is there a paint that will work as well ? and oh  
> yah my wife is starting to find recipes for some of the other thing  
> I've   "found necessary" I need ,or at least I think I need a wind  
> instrument .The one on impulse has a broken tail . Should I stay  
> with signet or another brand. when the wind blows hard enough it  
> does give me the quarter it's blowing from also doesn't start to  
> show on the scale till it gets above five or so knots and I think  
> it under reads. I have no illusions of being a world class sailor  
> just an old gunk hole explorer having a good time .It would also be  
> a good time to replace the knot meter it needs a new paddelwheel  
> kit unless anyone else has had good success with the signet one  
> I'll have them repaired . Ps I found a kick ass barbeque under  
> three hundred you can cook dinner for four  and still have room  
> left over. made locally and guaranteed for as long as you own it
>  Paul Impulse
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Don Strong <drstrong at ucdavis.edu>
> Date: Wednesday, July 29, 2009 6:36 pm
> Subject: Re: [C38] Rudder post packing gland, must remove steering  
> quadrant
> To: Catalina 38 Listserve <listserve at catalina38.org>
>
> > Dear People:
> > I failed to tell you that I had removed the steering quadrant
> > before the
> > operation described today.
> > Removal and replacement of the quadrant doubles the fun! The
> > first time,
> > you will find frozen nuts, and more!
> > Grease those nuts and bolts before replacing.
> > I also have the steering arm from the below deck hydraulic  
> autopilot.
> >
> > Don
> >
> > Richard West wrote:
> > > Hi Les,
> > >
> > > My quadrant has either been raised or lowered and I can't
> > remember
> > > which - lowered I think.  This was done to make room for
> > a separate
> > > steering arm that is operated by my below-deck hydraulic
> > autopilot.
> > >  This really makes it tight.  The only way I can get
> > to the packing
> > > gland is to remove the quadrant (two piece aluminum).  I
> > don't think
> > > servicability was utmost in Mr. Catalina's mind with this
> > design! ;-)
> > >
> > > Rich, Legacy, #360, San Diego
> > >
> > >
> > > On Wed, Jul 29, 2009 at 3:38 PM, Les <hlhowell at pacbell.net
> > > <mailto:hlhowell at pacbell.net>> wrote:
> > >
> > >     JACE has the triangular plate type of
> > packing gland also.  In
> > >     addition,
> > >     the rudder quadrant is in the way, and
> > I don't see either the quadrant
> > >     or its collar in the photo.  I
> > was wondering what you did to get under
> > >     it?
> > >
> > >     I know that there is a better way, but
> > I don't know what it is.  Rich,
> > >     you sound like you have the same
> > design I do.  Is your quadrant
> > >     (actually a disk I think) immediately
> > above the packing gland?
> > >
> > >     Regards,
> > >     Les H
> > >
> > >     On Wed, 2009-07-29 at 14:24 -0700,
> > Richard West wrote:
> > >     > Wow, for what it's worth, your
> > packing gland is very different from
> > >     > mine.  Mine has triangular
> > plates with thee screws and just enough
> > >     > room for about one ring of packing
> > and no real cutout to hold it in
> > >     > place.  Equally hard to work on
> > though!>     >
> > >     > Rich, Legacy, #360, San Diego
> > >     >
> > >     > On Wed, Jul 29, 2009 at 1:49 PM, D.
> > R. Strong
> > >     <drstrong at ucdavis.edu
> > <mailto:drstrong at ucdavis.edu>>>     > wrote:
> > >
> > >         In response to
> > requests for my packing gland packing
> > >
> > >         experiences.
> > This is really fun stuff (sarcasm intended).
> > >     >
> > >
> > >         1.  I
> > tried both the classical and the Teflon packing, and
> > >
> > >         vastly prefer
> > the latter. It is tougher, takes the abuse of
> > >
> > >         insertion
> > better, and it seems logical that the Teflon type
> > >
> > >         should last
> > longer. I don't remember the size of the packing
> > >
> > >         material;
> > middle size, not the largest or smallest. I
> > >     removed
> > >
> > >         the old stuff
> > and the West Marine gal  helped me find the
> > >
> > >         right
> > size.   To save repeated trips, I bought three
> > >     packages
> > >
> > >         of  the
> > two sizes that seemed right, then returned the
> > >     unused.
> > >
> > >         WM readily
> > takes refunds with receipt (because they know
> > >     that
> > >
> > >         boat addicts
> > cannot resist a purchase each and every
> > >     time they
> > >
> > >         enter the store).
> > >     >
> > >
> > >         2. I removed
> > the old packing with a tiny screw driver. A
> > >     trick
> > >
> > >         taught me by
> > Cree at Berkeley Marine Center is to make
> > >     up your
> > >
> > >         new material
> > on the exposed rudder post, up by the tiller
> > >
> > >         attachment
> > (careful, don't let the rudder sink to the bottom
> > >
> > >         of the marina
> > when you remove the tiller handle
> > >     attachment!).
> > >
> > >         Or, you could
> > mic the post and use another pipe of
> > >     exactly the
> > >
> > >         same diameter.
> > Coil the new packing material around
> > >     around the
> > >
> > >         post three
> > times. Cut through the coil on a 45 degree angle
> > >
> > >         with a sharp
> > razor blade; this must be pretty easy because I
> > >
> > >         got it right
> > the first time. The razoring of three wraps
> > >
> > >         procedure
> > gives you three perfect segments, all with
> > >     good cut
> > >
> > >         angles. Treat
> > them carefully, especially the cut edges.
> > >     >
> > >
> > >         3. Grease the
> > post and the new packing material just before
> > >
> > >         you
> > begin.  This will allow the material to readily
> > >     slide into
> > >
> > >         the slot. I'm
> > proud of having thought of this, but feel
> > >     stupid
> > >
> > >         that I labored
> > for hours ---butchering several packages of
> > >
> > >         packing trying
> > to get the material into the slot
> > >     ---before the
> > >
> > >         Lord delivered
> > the grease idea on to me (pay off for
> > >
> > >         memorizing the
> > 23 Psalm at 8). I used water proof marine
> > >
> > >         grease meant
> > for bearings on boat trailer wheels.
> > >     >
> > >
> > >         4. Insert the
> > coils with 66 degrees of rotation between the
> > >
> > >         cuts, so as to
> > isolate them maximally from each other.
> > >     >
> > >
> > >         5. Use the
> > ring on the sliding, unfixed, bottom half
> > >      (bronze
> > >
> > >         color above
> > the green base in the photo below) of the
> > >     gland as
> > >
> > >         a hard tool to
> > "force" ( = easy does it) the coils of
> > >     packing
> > >
> > >         material in.
> > Twist, pull up, and tap gently (if needs be) on
> > >
> > >         the sliding
> > half with a small (!) hammer or wrench handle to
> > >
> > >         urge the
> > insertion of the coil. DONT TAP TOO  HARD OR
> > >     YOU WILL
> > >
> > >         DEFORM THE
> > UNIT. (Note, this is the point when your wife
> > >     will
> > >
> > >         leave the boat
> > owing to the language used by her lover).
> > >     Note
> > >
> > >         that the
> > packing material on Discreet Charm is inserted
> > >
> > >         upward, into
> > the glassed on, fixed, top half of the unit.
> > >     >
> > >
> > >         6. I worked
> > from the cockpit, from the top, through the
> > >     stern
> > >
> > >         lazarette. If
> > you know a 6 year old with really long
> > >     arms and
> > >
> > >         strong hands
> > (older kids are too big) who will work from
> > >
> > >         below, go for
> > it. My first try (which failed because the
> > >
> > >         insertion of
> > the packing material was sloppy; edges did not
> > >
> > >         line up) gave
> > me a bad bruise across the chest at the
> > >     point of
> > >
> > >         contact
> > between me and the rim of the lazarette. Place a
> > >     thin
> > >
> > >         cushion or
> > towel between your chest and the on the rim
> > >     of the
> > >
> > >         lazarette to
> > prevent this unpleasant trophy of packing gland
> > >
> > >         replacement .
> > >     >
> > >
> > >         Love Don
> > >     >
> > >     >
> > >     >
> > >
> > >         --
> > >
> > >         Donald & Karin
> > Strong>
> > >         Discreet Charm
> > >
> > >         Catalina 38
> > >
> > >         San Fancisco Bay
> > >     >
> > >
> > >     >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > _______________________________________________>     Listserve  
> mailing list
> > >     Listserve at catalina38.org
> > <mailto:Listserve at catalina38.org>>
> > http://catalina38.org/mailman/listinfo/listserve_catalina38.org>
> > >
> > > ---------------------------------------------------------------
> > ---------
> > >
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > Listserve mailing list
> > > Listserve at catalina38.org
> > > http://catalina38.org/mailman/listinfo/listserve_catalina38.org
> > >
> >
> > --
> > Donald R. Strong
> > Professor
> > Department of Evolution and Ecology
> > University of California, Davis 95616
> > 530 752-7886
> >
> >
> >
> _______________________________________________
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> http://catalina38.org/mailman/listinfo/listserve_catalina38.org

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