[C38] winterize checklist?
Charles B. Finn
charles at finn.ws
Tue Oct 5 00:58:33 EDT 2010
Joey,
Winterizing our boats is pretty much like any other and BoatU.S.
Seaworthy has a pretty good checklist:
http://www.boatus.com/seaworthy/winter/
Here is generally what I do:
1. Probably the most important placement issues to consider for our
boats is to make sure when it is put on the hard that the boat drains
properly (aft).
2. Be sure to block your keel forward to help prevent the "Catalina smile."
3. Make sure the boatyard puts you on hard ground and if you are in an
area with high winds.... that the boat is oriented toward the prevailing
winds. Don't just let them decide what is best for you as they are all
about getting as many boats in a small area as possible! Don't let them
put you under trees or near roofs that may loose their snow load or
limbs. If you think you will be working on the boat, try to get a
location near an electrical outlet. Water is nice as well for spring
cleaning.
4. If you have a battery in the bilge, be sure to remove it so it does
not freeze.
5. Pour some RV anti-freeze in the bilge so that any ice that forms here
is somewhat slushy. I put about a gallon here.
6. Be sure to purge your fresh water system and then leave a 2 gallons
or so of RV anti-freeze in the system. Remember the hot water heater
has a lot of water in it! Some of our heaters have a drain valve, but I
have found my water pump will push most of the water out with air.
Remember to make sure the water faucet in the head runs anti-freeze out
of hot and cold.
7. The waste hose going from your toilet to the holding tank can hold
over a gallon of water. Be sure to replace that water as well as water
in the bowl with RV anti-freeze.
8. I disconnect the seawater engine intake and stick it into a bucket
of RV anti-freeze, start the motor and run about 1.5 gallons through
until I see "pink" coming out my exhaust.
9. Be sure all through-hole valves are open to ensure no water is in
them to freeze and crack them.
10. Change the engine oil before you lay up! It is way too hard to
drain cold engine oil.
11. I make sure the fuel tank is full and also put winterizing treatment
in it.
12. Disconnect any propane tanks.
13. It is a good time to check your sacrificials.
14. As I have 200 watts of solar panels, I leave my batteries on board,
but I do dismount the wind generator as it is rough on the blades.
15. Plan on visiting the boat within a couple weeks of being put on the
hard if possible. Lines come loose early on and any settling of the
boat could require some adjustment of your stand.
16. I use two plastic tarps. One 20x30 and one 15x20. I disconnect
the lower shrouds, leaving only the mid and upper ones so I can fit the
tarps together at the mast. Tarps last a couple of years. The
spinnaker pole makes a good "tent ridge" forward, while the boom
supported by my dodger frame with a heavy line secured to the backstay
make a good tent ridge aft. I always throw one or two old lines over
the top of my plastic cover to prevent flapping.
17. Outboard dingy motors need to be flushed and I store mine in the
basement to prevent freezing.
18. I take all the boat cushions off the boat for the winter to prevent
odors and possible mildew.
19. I also take what electronics I can off the boat such as chart
plotters, radios, etc. Frozen batteries in electronics are not good.
20. The canvas for my dodger and bimini come home to be cleaned and
water proofed.
21. I don't do much cleaning of the hull or deck as there is always
dust, dirt and grime on the boat in the spring.
22. I need a 15 foot ladder to climb up on my boat when she is on the hard.
Hope this helps!
Chuck Finn
Commodore
On 10/4/2010 12:50 PM, Bruce Liese wrote:
> www.sailingmates.com/winterizeyourboat.htm
>
> >>> Joey Baker 10/04/10 11:40 AM >>>
> Hello,
>
> This will be my first attempt at winterizing a C-38 and was wondering
> if there is a checklist floating around or some of you all had some
> pointers for me. Any help or advise would be greatly appreciated.
>
> Cheers,
> Joey Baker
>
>
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