[C38] difficulty starting

[Anders Finn]

Guys,

Here's another option. You can use your current ignition and completely 
remove the glowplug switch. Heck, if you wanted to, you could even put 
in a LED along the line there to tell you when the glowplugs are 
heating. Any EE's out there could check this but I think it's solid.

Anders


On 11/26/2010 11:55 AM, Chuck Finn wrote:
> Les,
> I think we are OK on this part.  Starter solenoids can easily handle 
> your battery max, which is over 100 amps with #2 AWG.  The wire going 
> to our switch on the control panel is a fraction of this size, which 
> suggests David's 20 amp call is right on.  And, that is the spec in 
> the Universal manual.   Besides, the circuit on my 45 hp. Kubota 
> tractor is only 40 amp...
>
> I just don't get why this wasn't dealt with long ago.
>
> Thanks,
> Chuck Finn
>
> On 11/26/2010 1:54 PM, Les wrote:
>> Before going that route, rent or buy a ammeter and measure the current
>> draw.  Make sure it can read the peak current, which will only last a
>> few milliseconds.  I suspect that the cold current of the preheaters
>> will be about 100A.  This is because most "hot wire" devices have a much
>> lower cold resistance than their ultimate hot resistance.  I think a
>> starter solenoid would still handle it OK, because most starters have an
>> inrush of similar proportions.
>>
>>     I once welded a series of 5 relays all at the same time, discovering
>> this particular bit of information, because I didn't always read specs
>> first.
>>
>> Regards,
>> Les H.
>> On Fri, 2010-11-26 at 13:42 -0500, Chuck Finn wrote:
>>> David,
>>> I see we are thinking along the same lines!  Ever since Tom T. made us
>>> aware of the dangers of our amp meters and Larry M. had is fire, I
>>> have been thinking of the last high amp draw that goes all the way
>>> from our battery, to the control panel, to the engine.  That of course
>>> is the glow plug circuit.  When you think about it, this is another
>>> really dumb idea for two reasons.  First is the possibility of wire
>>> fatigue/wear and fire.  Second is the voltage drop.
>>> My thinking is the best answer is re-wire the glow plug circuit with
>>> an inexpensive starter solenoid ($15).  This will dramatically shorten
>>> the wire distance and reduce the chance of fire.  It will also
>>> eliminate the last high amp connection to the wire harness and control
>>> panel.  I am thinking starter solenoid because they can handle much
>>> more than 20 amps and are off the shelf.  Will also install a 25 amp
>>> in-line slow fuse.
>>>
>>> This seem like such a simple answer that I am worried I am missing
>>> something....  Especially since solenoids have been around forever!
>>>
>>> Thoughts?
>>>
>>> Chuck Finn
>>> Commodore
>>>
>>> On 11/17/2010 12:18 PM, David Epstein wrote:
>>>> Patrick,
>>>>
>>>> One possibility is the wiring to the glow plugs and/or the switch.
>>>> The later models include a solenoid for the glow plugs so that the
>>>> higher current (about 20a for all three plugs) is not reliant on the
>>>> wiring harness and the switch itself.  In my online search, I
>>>> learned that people reported a huge difference in the effectiveness
>>>> of the glow plugs after installing a solenoid, and a much shorter
>>>> "warm up" before starting.  I am in the process of installing such a
>>>> solenoid on SuperStar along with replacement of the engine control
>>>> panel.
>>>>
>>>> Did you change the engine mounted fuel pump, or the electric "lift"
>>>> pump?  Also, do you have problems starting when the engine is warm,
>>>> or only when it is cold?
>>>>
>>>> David Epstein
>>>> SuperStar #122
>>>> Marina del Rey
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
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>>
>>
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