[C38] Wiring Diagrams

[Steven Ribble]

Thanks Steve, having this kind of detail really helps those of us who still
need to tackle this adventure...on behalf of the Association (unofficially,
of course) and for the longevity of our boats, I appreciate your time in
putting this together.

On Tue, Nov 30, 2010 at 12:07 AM, Steve Smolinske <
SSmolinske at rainierrubber.com> wrote:

>  Attached are two drawings of what I did on Peregrine.  One word of
> caution if you are doing this yourself make sure to check the famps for your
> wire runs and size accordingly.  The wire sizes on the drawings are based on
> the locations and wire pulls for my boat.  You can download a wire sizing
> chart from Blue Sea Systems its pretty simple to figure out the correct
> size  amps X feet (both delivery and return) = famps  then just use the
> chart to determine wire size.
>
> The drawing labeled "Wiring":  The grounds for the sub panel, alternator
> and start battery all return to the - (negative) post, I didnt draw them in
> just for ease of reading the diagram.   If you install an emergency battery
> as I did, before turning the battery switch to open the emergency battery
> circuit you must first flip the 100A breaker at the panel OFF, or else you
> will instantly drain your emergency battery as the current will rush into
> the house bank equalizing out the house bank voltage with the emergency
> voltage, this happens the instant that the two banks are connected.
>
> Equipment referenced on the drawing:
>
> Charger - Promariner Protech 1230i plus, 30 amp
> ACR 7610 - Blue Sea Systems Automatic Charging Relay
> Alternator - Balmar 70 Amp
> ARS-5 - Balmar smart voltage regulator
> Sub Panel - Blue Sea Systems, with digital ammeter and voltmeter
> House Batteries - (2) 220 amp 6 volt, AGM lifeline
> Emeg. Battery - (1) 33 amp 12 volt, AGM Lifeline  (powers sailing
> instruments, GPS, VHF, sailing lights, and Emergency Strobe for about 8-10
> hours)
> Start Battery - (1)  12 volt not sure of amps, AGM Lifeline
>
> The second drawing labeled "Engine wiring"  is basically ripping out the
> wiring harness and all of the old wiring on the engine and reinstalling
> without the ammeter as Tom T mentioned in earlier posts.   The alternator is
> absent from this drawing as it is included in the other drawing.
>
> Location of equipment"
>
> House batteries, Charger, ACR, +/- posts, DC Shunt, 300 amp ANL fuse and a
> spare are all located in the battery compartment under the port settee.
>
> House battery and ARS-5 Voltage regulater located in the port cockpit
> locker,
>
> Emergency battery and its battery switch are located just forward of the
> fuel tank under the quarter berth.
>
> The 100 amp ANL fuse in line from the alternator to the postive post is
> located just underneath the alternator and secured to the floor of the
> engine compartment  along with a spare fuse.
>
> I also pulled all new wiring in the mast, cabin, and running lights as well
> as rewiring the back of the engine control panel.  What I noticed when I was
> all done is that the lights are brighter, and the blower was so much louder
> I could actually hear it working.  Its also really nice to have an accurate
> voltage meter and ammeter at the control panel.  The panel readout now
> matches what my multimeter shows at the batteries.   Hope this helps.  Ill
> write up a more detailed article for the next Mainsheet.  Aww one last IMHO
> if you do this or any work invest in one of the ratchet style crimpers, that
> way you know exactly that your crimps are solid (I didnt and wish I had) and
> use the heat shrink connectors the extra price will save lots of time and
> make the job last that much longer.
>
> Steve
> #312 Peregrine
> Seattle
>
>
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>


-- 
Steve Ribble
207/852-0971
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