[C38] Listserve Digest, Vol 7, Issue 294
Peter Lagan
pblagan at shaw.ca
Tue May 3 16:47:18 EDT 2011
Hi Marci,
The word "Blisters" would run chills down my spine two years ago when looking for our first family boat. Most of the older boats seemed to have them, which was usually reflected in the price. There was a Bayfield 32 (I think...it was a long time ago) that surveyed poorly. The story went that the hull was formed in two sections, port & starboard, then placed together. One of the sides was covered with blisters, and the other was fine. This supports Tom's statement about perspiration if one side was formed on a cold day, and the other on a hot.
We paid a bit of a premium for Gusto because she had the 'vinylester' treatment in '06...below waterline blisters haven't been a issue. However, I'm curious if you or anyone else has observed above waterline blisters, if that's what they're called. When hauled, standing below the stern with the sun shining above to cause blister shadows, we observed thousands of bumps, more prominent around the exhaust, all the way up to the tow rail. Are these something to be concerned about? Also, the bow sits about 2" higher than the stern on the waterline, so I'm wondering if that's just poor weight distribution (we're currently unloaded), or did the process of removing the old poly distribute the weight differently. I've read that boats are lighter after the bottom is peeled or old poly removed. Has anyone else noticed this?
Many Thanks and all the Best,
Peter Lagan
Gusto, #333
Victoria, BC
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From: listserve-request at catalina38.org
Date: Tuesday, May 3, 2011 9:00 am
Subject: Listserve Digest, Vol 7, Issue 294
To: listserve at catalina38.org
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> 1. Re: Hull blistering - ouch! (Steve.Ribble at gmail.com)
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> Message: 1
> Date: Tue, 03 May 2011 11:36:51 +0000
> From: Steve.Ribble at gmail.com
> To: Catalina 38 Listserve <listserve at catalina38.org>
> Subject: Re: [C38] Hull blistering - ouch!
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> HI Marci...sorry to hear about the blisters, they are a pain
> that just
> needs to be dealt with. As mentioned above, if you see a few,
> chances are
> there are others forming. That said you have two options,
> address the ones
> you know about and repeat the process for those that show up
> later, or sand
> blast the entire bottom and re-gel coat with vinylester (rather
> than
> polyester) fiberglass/gel coat.
>
> I haven't noticed anything on my [1980] hull, but I had another
> hull
> (different boat/builder) from the same year that looked like it
> had
> thousands of thumbtacks everywhere below the waterline...and the
> only thing
> to do was re-do the bottom. As odd as it might sound, boat
> builders didn't
> know a lot about fiberglass in that era (it had only been around
> 15-20
> years) and their typical solution was to build hulls that were
> bulletproof.
> As technology progressed and lighter cored hulls became the
> fashion
> advances in fiberglass understanding found that polyester resins
> in the
> fiberglass would allow osmosis to occur, particularly in
> freshwater
> (possibly due to it's lighter density when compared to
> saltwater?). Once
> inside the hull material the moisture expands with the freeze-
> thaw cycles
> of the seasons and allows more room for more moisture/water to
> get in and
> repeat the process until you get something you can see on the surface.
>
> I kept that boat for 8 years after the sandblasting and gel
> coat
> replacement done and never saw another problem...and I would
> have noticed
> because that boat had VC-17 for bottom paint and with a roller
> (like I
> used) it's really hard to get more than one coat of thickness
> because it
> dissolves the old coat when you put on the new (great stuff if
> you want to
> go fast, but not for saltwater...). Anyway, the point is that
> any
> imperfection would have been noticeable.
>
> Oh, and regarding the drying out period, we blasted the boat in
> the
> fall/early winter and did the gel coat in the spring...it sat in
> a heated
> building in the interim. Don't know that you need to wait that
> long, but if
> the boat is in a dry environment and/or protected from direct
> exposure to
> snow/rain it is better it give it longer than you think it
> needs. Finally,
> if you go this route, get a few prices...for what I paid the
> guys that did
> mine I was able to also Awlgrip the deck and non-skid for the
> same price
> the first yard I talked to quoted me for the bottom alone (which
> was part
> of the "in the building over winter" thing).
>
> Hope it helps, good luck.
>
> Steve Ribble
> Tittravate, #64
> Boothbay Hbr, ME
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