[C38] Starting woes

dmills3 at comcast.net dmills3 at comcast.net
Tue May 10 13:10:20 EDT 2011





Pierre, I asked for help on removing the starter about a month ago, (see archives). It took me about 2-3 hours (including frustration breaks) to finally get it out. It is so cramped back there. Depending on whether your alternator has ever been removed, and I don't think mine ever was, the bolt that it pivots on was really hard to get out and it will make a difference in total job time. 

I removed the alternator and adjusting bracket and the sound proofing along the side of the engine just to have more access to the starter. First try to break loose the piviting bolt just to make sure it will turn. There are a couple of ground wires at the back of the pivot bolt. The nut on the back of the bolt is hard to get to and was tight. I think it is 9/16 and I used the box end. After you get the nut off keep turning the bolt until it comed out a little. I then sprayed PB Blaster penetration spray onto and in the hole and it kept getting easier to turn. I then used vice grips and was able to pull and twist and got the bolt out. There are 3 wires to take off the alternator. 

There is a bottom "bolt" and a top "nut" that holds the starter in. The bolt you can get to with a long extension. Because of the shape of the starter (big body and smaller diameter of the part that houses the bendix drive, you can't get a straight shot at the top nut. As in my Starter Help question a month ago several members got back with help. I believe it was Tom Troncalli that suggested going to Harbor Freight and gettin a set of Obstruction Wrenches and that did the trick. They are shaped like a C with a boxend on each end. I believe it is the oil pressure sending unit that is right above the starter at the back of the block and makes it difficult to swing a wrench. There it just enough room to get that wrench on the top nut and break it loose. You can only turn it 1/6 rotation at a time and at the beginning you have to tilt the wrench forward so it just rubs the sending unit and allows you to get a full 1/6 turn. As you continue to make progress, stop and loosen the bottom bolt and "break" the starter loose and let it tilt down. What happened to me is the that while concentrating on the top nut the wrench bottomed out because of the larger diameter of the body and I couldn't turn the nut anymore and I had to turn it back on to get the wrench off. 

When the starter tilts down enough you will be able to get a long extention and get to the nut. 

I took my starter to a rebuilding shop and paid $100. to rebuild it. They cleaned it up and put a new selinoid on it and painted it like new. My engine now cranks faster and starts easier. 

It didn't take as long to reinstall it because now you have experience. 

Good luck, Dan # 108 

   


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Pierre Patino" <pierre.patino at gmail.com> 
To: Listserve at catalina38.org 
Sent: Tuesday, May 10, 2011 11:49:15 AM 
Subject: [C38] Starting woes 


Hello All 

My engine is difficult to start. It's the Universal Diesel 5424. I believe it was somewhat rebuilt two or three years ago but I cannot locate the records indicating exactly what was done. According to the service manual, the symptoms indicate a possible starter problem (assuming "bad engine" ain't the cause). Can anyone tell me about how long it takes to replace the starter? I'm somewhat mechanically inclined but no longer a gymnast. 

Among the symptoms in page 17 of the manual is "[Starter] Pole core screw loose". It seems to me that this would preclude the starter from turning at all, is this correct? 

By the way, the symptom is: Motor turns very slowly (about once per second)  while starting and the cabin lights dim almost to darkness. Brand new batteries too. 

Thanks in advance. 

Cheers 



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