[C38] Head

[Max Soto]

Steve O., You're right. I had to get paper and a pencil and made a diagram,
now I get it!! LOL
Do you still have the valve before the macerator for the deck pump out
fitting???

Regards,

Max

2011/10/11 S Orton <ssorton at hotmail.com>

>  Max,  There are 3 valves involved:
> 1)  The 2 way valve that directs the head discharge overb'd or to the
> holding tank.
> 2)  The macerator discharges to the overb'd hose via a tee with a ball shut
> off valve just before the tee.  This valve keeps sea water from leaking back
> through the macerator pump into the holding tank.
> 3)  The overb'd through hull valve
> Normal operation, where allowed, is discharging the head directly overb'd.
> The 2 way valve handle is up with the discharge overb'd and the macerator
> valve closed.
> For discharging to the holding tank, the 2 way valve handle is down, and
> the macerator valve is closed.
> To macerate, the 2 way valve is mid position (no flow from the head or
> worse no flow back into the head) and the macerator valve is open allowing
> flow overb'd.
> I think a simple diagram would of explained this better.
> Cheers, Steve O
>  ------------------------------
>  Date: Tue, 11 Oct 2011 20:13:02 -0600
> From: maxsoto at gmail.com
> To: listserve at catalina38.org
> Subject: Re: [C38] Head
>
> Steve,
> How is that Tee for the holding tank and head discharge working??? How many
> valves have you installed??? I already have one to select if the head
> discharge goes overboard or to the tank. I'm not sure if this is standard
> setup or not...
>
> Regards,
>
> Max
>
> 2011/10/11 S Orton <ssorton at hotmail.com>
>
>  Good job Steve!  Something to think about- the upper aft portion of
> cabinet interferes with a person putting their head directly over the sink.
> One of my future projects is to recess that aft cabinet portion outboard to
> allow more headroom, which would also allow more options for lighting.
> You mentioned in an earlier thread about plugging through hulls to obtain
> that additional fractional knot.  What we did when we had the bottom peeled
> and vinylester applied was to:
> 1. Plug the head sink drain through hull and run the drain aft and tee it
> into the galley sink drain.  It works well, but the sink can still overflow
> on a starb'd beat.  So it didn't solve that problem- I still have to closed
> the galley drain cock.
> 2. Plug the macerator drain and tee it into the head "direct overb'd" with
> appropriate valving.  This works great- I never understood why you
> would have two large overboards, side by side, when a tee would work for the
> same dirty water.
> The biggest benefit from the above rework was the vinylester bottom- the
> boat definitely float higher!  I didn't go into the peeling operation for
> that reason though, I wanted get rid of the blisters.  My boat was like
> small pox all over and this kept me from sanding the hull at the bi-annual
> haul outs.
> Thank you for the pictures, as it gives me insight of what I'm up against
> in reworking the head cabinet.
> Cheers, Steve O
> Santa Susanna (304)
>
>  ------------------------------
> Date: Sun, 9 Oct 2011 19:18:48 -0700
> From: SSmolinske at rainierrubber.com
> To: listserve at catalina38.org
> Subject: [C38] Head
>
>
> Here are the pics after taking out the counter top intersting find in the
> process.   looking at the sink in the upper left corner of the counter top
> is where the water pools you can see in the pic a cut out that lead straight
> to the the salon bulkhead,  any water that accumulates from a shower, the
> sink or the head sweating runs right down the back of the bulkhead and under
> the forward cushion.   I always thought my chain plate was leaking and
> sealed and resealed numerous times.  Took the counter top out of the boat
> and with it went the musty boat smell, next time on the boat no smell.   The
> counter was wet in the same upper left corner and some mold.  sprayed with
> mold killer will paint and reinstall,  thinking that I will run a piece of
> teak trim along the counter top and the bulkhead sealing it to capture any
> water on the laminate counter top and in the far upper left corner cut in a
> flush to the counter top through hull type fitting so any water accumulation
> can drain into the bilge.   Other idea was to do the same trim detail but
> install laminate directly over the gelcoat cabinet, make a spacer for the
> chainplate mount and not worry about wood any longer.   Thoughts or comments
> please
>
> Max, the last pic is of the bulge in deck you asked about earlier.
>
> Steve
> #312 Peregrine
> Seattle
>
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>
> --
> Max Soto
> C38 #198 ESTANCIA
> Puntarenas, Costa Rica
>
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-- 
Max Soto
C38 #198 ESTANCIA
Puntarenas, Costa Rica
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