[C38] steering post leak. My experience

David Stoltz sportscinema at earthlink.net
Mon Sep 1 15:53:54 EDT 2014 

Hi Max,
Thanks very much for getting back to me and your advice about coolant in the water heater. 

For the moment, I'm bypassing it because I want to be sure everything is ok with the new steering post packing before I re-install it. I connected the 2 outlets on the heat exchange with a hose so the water goes in one connection and out the other. I also opened the valve in the center as it would be if the water heater were connected. Buy the way, what exactly is the purpose of the valve? Also, I have an overflow tank. 

I'm going to continue working on it now.

Thanks again Max.
Best,
David

Sent from my iPhone

> On Sep 1, 2014, at 9:47 AM, "Malcolm (Max) Winter" <malcolmwmax at aol.com> wrote:
> 
> The water heater hoses are higher that the coolant inlet on the motor. You need to make sure there are no sags in the hoses to trap air and if you do not have an overflow tank above the water heater, then you must disconnect the hoses at the water tank and fill them with coolant/ water and connect the lower hose first, then fill the highest water inlet to the water tank with coolant. It is a messy nuisance but I do not know of another way. I tried several ways when I installed a new tank and I eventually added a small overflow tank above the heater.
> Good luck. 
> 
> Max
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: David Stoltz <sportscinema at earthlink.net>
> To: Catalina 38 Listserve <listserve at catalina38.org>
> Sent: Sun, Aug 31, 2014 9:55 pm
> Subject: Re: [C38] steering post leak. My experience
> 
> 
> Hi,
> I'm having a problem bleeding the air out of the freshwater cooling system, which is causing the motor to overheat under a load. I'm quite sure it's air locked
> because it was fine before before draining the system to remove the water heater. I re-filed it, let it run until the thermostat opened and opened, then opened
> the bleed valve. Some air came out, but the motor started to immediately overheat. Shut it off, let it cool down thinking it would now take more water, but it would not.
> Any suggestions?
> Thanks,
> David
> Andiamo #297
> 
> 
>> On Aug 28, 2014, at 10:25 AM, Steve Smolinske wrote:
>> 
>> Edson recommends 3/8  I think if you  go smaller you won’t have enough compression around the post to  make an effective seal.  
>>  
>> http://www.edsonmarine.com/marinestore/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=84_92_290
>>  
>> From: Listserve [mailto:listserve-bounces at catalina38.org] On Behalf Of Michael Norcross
>> Sent: Thursday, August 28, 2014 10:16 AM
>> To: Catalina 38 Listserve
>> Subject: Re: [C38] steering post leak. My experience
>>  
>> David, I too need to tackle this leak/stream so am eager to see your progress. I did hear 5/16 a few pages back, but that is closer than 3/8. Does it matter on the brand of cord? My hull is #318 so it's probably exactly what you are dealing with. Good luck.
>>  
>> Mike
>> Escape - Annapolis
>> 
>> On Aug 28, 2014, at 12:41 PM, David Stoltz <sportscinema at earthlink.net> wrote:
>>  
>> Thank you Don and Max.
>>  
>> Don, thanks for taking the time to clearly explain and for your implement suggestion.
>>  
>> Max, thanks for your input as well. I'll try 1/4", but I was told by Kent (a one time Catalina employee) that it was 3/8"s, however it does seem a little thick.
>>  
>> Hope you both have a great weekend.
>>  
>> Best,
>> David
>>  
>>  
>> On Aug 27, 2014, at 6:56 PM, Donald Strong wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> David:
>> I failed twice at getting the packing right. Do not compress, twist or roll the packing material.
>> 1. Cut the ends at an angle so the material is the exact length, which you can get by coiling the packing strip around the rudder post and cutting diagonally with a razor blade.
>> 2. Make 3 strips as per 1 above.
>> 3. Make an implement out of a tube with the exact interior diameter of the rudder post. Thickness of this device should be just shy of the width of the packing material and the interior diameter of the gland. Implement should be a couple of inches long
>> Cut this implement longitudinally into two halves. I used a thin pvc pipe, I think (or  brass tube that I found in the dumpster on the dock)?
>> 4. Wrap the first exactly cut length of packing material around the rudder post. Make sure the ends match perfectly. Ease it down as far as you can get it with your fingers. put some grease on the rudder post so the material will slide.
>> Place the implement around the rudder post above the packing material. Tape the halves of the implement together. 
>> 5. Tap gently around the top edge of the implement until the packing material disappears into the gland.
>> 6. Repeat with the other two, offsetting the cut by 120 degrees.
>> 
>> My success has been dry for 6 years.
>> 
>> Good luck, Don  
>> 
>> n 8/27/14 6:35 PM, David Stoltz wrote:
>>  
>> Hopefully this is are the last question I will ever have about the rudder post packing gland because this job is a BITCH...
>>  
>> Any suggestions on fitting the new packing into to the recessed ares of the gland? 
>>  
>> It's 3/8" and a very tight fit. I was thinking about rolling it slightly to make it a bit thinner. Good or bad idea???
>>  
>> Thanks very much.
>>  
>> On Aug 25, 2014, at 7:34 AM, Steve Smolinske wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> Peregrine is in the yard having the rudder packing gland deglassed to the tube.   Noticed last time out that the packing gland rotated when the wheel was turned.   Also bilge pump was going off every twenty minutes.  
>> 
>> Steve Smolinske
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 206 972 6297
>> 
>> On Aug 25, 2014, at 8:10 AM, "Michael Norcross" <manorcross at gmail.com> wrote:
>>  David's woes inspired me to peer into the cavern..yes, water coming in thru the rudder seal and at good clip under sail or motor.  Kicking myself, since I just hauled the boat to do a serious job on the  bottom (soda blast etc).  Below we go, water heater for sure is the first obstacle. 
>>  
>> Mike
>> On Aug 24, 2014, at 8:45 PM, David Stoltz wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> Thanks Max.
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>> On Aug 23, 2014, at 6:44 AM, "Malcolm (Max) Winter" <malcolmwmax at aol.com> wrote:
>> The rudder should be supported if you are going to remove the bolts supporting the Quadrant as well as the bolt at the post attachment to the rudder. It would drop through if not supported.
>> Max
>>  
>> ---- Original Message ----
>> From: David Stoltz <sportscinema at earthlink.net>
>> To: Catalina 38 Listserve <listserve at catalina38.org>
>> Sent: Fri, Aug 22, 2014 6:06 pm
>> Subject: Re: [C38] steering post leak
>>  
>> Hi Mark,
>> Thanks for getting back to me. Does the boat have to be hauled, or can I do it with the boat in the water? Will the rudder drop if I remove the 3 nuts at the top
>> of the rudder post?
>> Thanks,
>> David
>>  
>> On Aug 19, 2014, at 4:36 PM, Mixed Business wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> The only way to access the the quadrant and post and cables is through the quarter berth access. Get all the ratchet extensions you have and a breaker bar to get the quadrant loose. Seriously like All the extensions you have. One guy working in the quarter berth on his stomach and another in the sail locker in the engine access. 
>>  
>> Too me and two others 4 hours to break it all loose... UNdo the cables and drop the rudder. 
>>  
>> Have fun. 
>> 
>> Mark
>> Momentous 230
>> Balt. 
>>  
>> 
>> On Aug 17, 2014, at 2:06 PM, David Stoltz <sportscinema at earthlink.net> wrote:
>>  
>> Hi Steve,
>>  
>> I finally got around to dealing with the rudder post this weekend and discovered that there does not seem to be a way to access it, except from below deck.
>> I removed the floor form the rear lazaret thinking I could get to it that way...wrong (see photo). Also checked under the both cockpit benches for possible
>> access. Any suggestions?
>>  
>> Also, when I removed the rear lazaret floorboard I discovered a copper strip (see photo) that did not seem to connect to anything on either end, but that could be because of corrosion. Is this something that needs to be replaced and if so, does it connect to anything?
>>  
>> Thanks very much.
>>  
>> Best,
>> David
>> <photo 1.JPG>
>>  
>> On Jul 27, 2014, at 7:04 PM, S Orton wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> David,  First look at the top of the gland and see if the gland can be tighten- should be 3 nuts.  If the gland is bottomed out, just add another ring of packing- 5/16" I believe.  This is the hard part, as you have to completely back off the three nuts (or bolts?) pry up the gland  cap, and put in another ring of packing into the stuffing box, and 
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> 
> David Stoltz
> Executive Producer
> 310.785.9100
> 
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> 
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