[C38] steering post leak. My experience
Steve Smolinske
SSmolinske at rainierrubber.com
Tue Sep 2 13:23:47 EDT 2014
In order to bleed the air out when filling from the top, you have to run
the engine under load either away from the dock or at the dock, I am
not sure you can get it to burp when it is out of gear.
Steve
From: Listserve [mailto:listserve-bounces at catalina38.org] On Behalf Of
David Stoltz
Sent: Tuesday, September 02, 2014 10:11 AM
To: Catalina 38 Listserve
Subject: Re: [C38] steering post leak. My experience
Thanks everyone. I finally got the last of the air out yesterday.
As always, I very much appreciate your help.
Unfortunately, the new packing is leaking so I'm going to replace again
as soon as the weather cools down.
When I'm finished I'll post what I've learned in the process and
hopefully make it a little easier for those attempting it for the first
time.
Best,
David
On Sep 2, 2014, at 7:27 AM, Charles Finn wrote:
As you face your engine, you will see down in the lower right corner the
lowest place to access coolant. If you install a tee at this point, you
can fill your engine from the bottom up using a hand pump or a drill
pump. Leave the radiator cap off until the level reaches it and then
close. Then let the last of the air out by bleeding the valve above the
thermostat.
So far over the past four years, this has worked for me. I have to take
out my heat exchanger every year due to zebra mussels that hatch, grow
and die, restricting flow, so getting the bubble out was a high
priority!
Chuck Finn
Mighty Quinn #114
Great Lakes
On 9/1/2014 12:55 AM, David Stoltz wrote:
Hi,
I'm having a problem bleeding the air out of the freshwater
cooling system, which is causing the motor to overheat under a load. I'm
quite sure it's air locked
because it was fine before before draining the system to remove
the water heater. I re-filed it, let it run until the thermostat opened
and opened, then opened
the bleed valve. Some air came out, but the motor started to
immediately overheat. Shut it off, let it cool down thinking it would
now take more water, but it would not.
Any suggestions?
Thanks,
David
Andiamo #297
On Aug 28, 2014, at 10:25 AM, Steve Smolinske wrote:
Edson recommends 3/8 I think if you go smaller you won't have
enough compression around the post to make an effective seal.
http://www.edsonmarine.com/marinestore/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=8
4_92_290
From: Listserve [mailto:listserve-bounces at catalina38.org] On
Behalf Of Michael Norcross
Sent: Thursday, August 28, 2014 10:16 AM
To: Catalina 38 Listserve
Subject: Re: [C38] steering post leak. My experience
David, I too need to tackle this leak/stream so am eager to see
your progress. I did hear 5/16 a few pages back, but that is closer than
3/8. Does it matter on the brand of cord? My hull is #318 so it's
probably exactly what you are dealing with. Good luck.
Mike
Escape - Annapolis
On Aug 28, 2014, at 12:41 PM, David Stoltz
<sportscinema at earthlink.net> wrote:
Thank you Don and Max.
Don, thanks for taking the time to clearly explain and
for your implement suggestion.
Max, thanks for your input as well. I'll try 1/4", but I
was told by Kent (a one time Catalina employee) that it was 3/8"s,
however it does seem a little thick.
Hope you both have a great weekend.
Best,
David
On Aug 27, 2014, at 6:56 PM, Donald Strong wrote:
David:
I failed twice at getting the packing right. Do not
compress, twist or roll the packing material.
1. Cut the ends at an angle so the material is the exact
length, which you can get by coiling the packing strip around the rudder
post and cutting diagonally with a razor blade.
2. Make 3 strips as per 1 above.
3. Make an implement out of a tube with the exact
interior diameter of the rudder post. Thickness of this device should be
just shy of the width of the packing material and the interior diameter
of the gland. Implement should be a couple of inches long
Cut this implement longitudinally into two halves. I
used a thin pvc pipe, I think (or brass tube that I found in the
dumpster on the dock)?
4. Wrap the first exactly cut length of packing material
around the rudder post. Make sure the ends match perfectly. Ease it down
as far as you can get it with your fingers. put some grease on the
rudder post so the material will slide.
Place the implement around the rudder post above the
packing material. Tape the halves of the implement together.
5. Tap gently around the top edge of the implement until
the packing material disappears into the gland.
6. Repeat with the other two, offsetting the cut by 120
degrees.
My success has been dry for 6 years.
Good luck, Don
n 8/27/14 6:35 PM, David Stoltz wrote:
Hopefully this is are the last question I will
ever have about the rudder post packing gland because this job is a
BITCH...
Any suggestions on fitting the new packing into
to the recessed ares of the gland?
It's 3/8" and a very tight fit. I was thinking
about rolling it slightly to make it a bit thinner. Good or bad idea???
Thanks very much.
On Aug 25, 2014, at 7:34 AM, Steve Smolinske
wrote:
Peregrine is in the yard having the rudder
packing gland deglassed to the tube. Noticed last time out that the
packing gland rotated when the wheel was turned. Also bilge pump was
going off every twenty minutes.
Steve Smolinske
Sent from my iPhone
206 972 6297
On Aug 25, 2014, at 8:10 AM, "Michael Norcross"
<manorcross at gmail.com> wrote:
David's woes inspired me to peer into
the cavern..yes, water coming in thru the rudder seal and at good clip
under sail or motor. Kicking myself, since I just hauled the boat to do
a serious job on the bottom (soda blast etc). Below we go, water
heater for sure is the first obstacle.
Mike
On Aug 24, 2014, at 8:45 PM, David
Stoltz wrote:
Thanks Max.
Sent from my iPhone
On Aug 23, 2014, at 6:44 AM, "Malcolm
(Max) Winter" <malcolmwmax at aol.com> wrote:
The rudder should be supported if you
are going to remove the bolts supporting the Quadrant as well as the
bolt at the post attachment to the rudder. It would drop through if not
supported.
Max
---- Original Message ----
From: David Stoltz
<sportscinema at earthlink.net>
To: Catalina 38 Listserve
<listserve at catalina38.org>
Sent: Fri, Aug 22, 2014 6:06 pm
Subject: Re: [C38] steering post leak
Hi Mark,
Thanks for getting back to me. Does the
boat have to be hauled, or can I do it with the boat in the water? Will
the rudder drop if I remove the 3 nuts at the top
of the rudder post?
Thanks,
David
On Aug 19, 2014, at 4:36 PM, Mixed
Business wrote:
The only way to access the the quadrant
and post and cables is through the quarter berth access. Get all the
ratchet extensions you have and a breaker bar to get the quadrant loose.
Seriously like All the extensions you have. One guy working in the
quarter berth on his stomach and another in the sail locker in the
engine access.
Too me and two others 4 hours to break
it all loose... UNdo the cables and drop the rudder.
Have fun.
Mark
Momentous 230
Balt.
On Aug 17, 2014, at 2:06 PM, David
Stoltz <sportscinema at earthlink.net> wrote:
Hi Steve,
I finally got around to dealing with the
rudder post this weekend and discovered that there does not seem to be a
way to access it, except from below deck.
I removed the floor form the rear
lazaret thinking I could get to it that way...wrong (see photo). Also
checked under the both cockpit benches for possible
access. Any suggestions?
Also, when I removed the rear lazaret
floorboard I discovered a copper strip (see photo) that did not seem to
connect to anything on either end, but that could be because of
corrosion. Is this something that needs to be replaced and if so, does
it connect to anything?
Thanks very much.
Best,
David
<photo 1.JPG>
On Jul 27, 2014, at 7:04 PM, S Orton
wrote:
David, First look at the top of the
gland and see if the gland can be tighten- should be 3 nuts. If the
gland is bottomed out, just add another ring of packing- 5/16" I
believe. This is the hard part, as you have to completely back off the
three nuts (or bolts?) pry up the gland cap, and put in another ring of
packing into the stuffing box, and
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