[C38] up-grading electrical system

Mon Mar 23 17:17:37 EDT 2015

Max, 
Thanks, 
Are you enjoying Costa Rica? 
Patrick 

----- Original Message -----

From: "Max soto" <maxsoto at gmail.com> 
To: hlhowell at pacbell.net, "Catalina" <listserve at catalina38.org> 
Sent: Thursday, March 5, 2015 8:12:48 PM 
Subject: Re: [C38] up-grading electrical system 

Well Patrick, what can I say... Les just gave you great recommendations. 
1- What I consider to be the best and most helpful modification is the hinge and the latches that I installed for the main panel. Every time I I tried to replace a switch or a fuse holder, I ended up breaking something else because I was barely able to separate it from its mounting location, so my hand barely fit in there. Also, the grounding bar was located between the switches and the fuse holders. Wtf?... It was also way to small. Pics attached. Sorry for the bad lighting! 
Now, with the hinge installed and a couple of connector  bars where I connected the original wires, I installed some extension to the switches, so I'll be able to open the panel without pulling the wires.. Les's advice about moving to breakers is the way to go. That's on my list! 
2- A battery monitor with a shunt is a must. Beware! It creates some kind of addiction to lower power consumption! 
3- I also removed the ammeter from the engine panel. The positive wire coming from the alternator is going to straight to the house bank, then I have a Balmar Duo  Charge that is supposed to provide up to 30amp to starting battery, but this set up has not working that good so I'm going to replace it with a charging relay from Blue Seas. Is not as smart as the Balmar but it will get the job done more efficiently. 
4- install an overheating alarm on the engine panel and a warning lamp for the alternator. this way you'll know if the belt breaks and you will be able to prevent overheating. 
5- I feel safer by using oil pressure gauge at the engine panel. 
6- install an alarm for each of your bilge pumps. 
7- if you add an electric windlass, just run big wires from the house bank to the windlass. don't install a dedicated battery on the bow, it will add more weight and you'll still be running wires to charge that battery... 
8- install a large diameter wire from the mast base to a keel bolt for added lightning protection. 

Hope this helps.. 

Max Soto A. 
C38 Estancia 
+506-8312-1367 
Alajuela, Costa Rica 

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[image/jpeg:image3.JPG] 

> On Mar 4, 2015, at 13:02, Les Howell <hlhowell at pacbell.net> wrote: 
> 
> Hi, Patrick, 
>    We no longer have our boat, but there are several thoughts I have... 
> Others will share theirs as well I am sure... 
>    1.  If not already done on your boat, I recommend circuit breakers. 
> Fuses are tough to find when at sea, and Murphy always followed me 
> around with his law book. 
>    2.  Separate the left and right side cabin lights so that when working 
> on starboard lights, port lights are on. 
>    3.  Put in an engine room light if none is there. 
>    4.  remove all the "3 way" riveted connectors.  Replace them with a 
> bigger crimp on and seal well with shoe goo or silicon. 
>    5.  make the connections for the bilge pump using water proof plug and 
> receptacle.  If you need to change the bilge pump, a connector makes it 
> easy and a well sealed one keeps corrosion to a minimum.  Go with gold 
> plated pins if you can find them. 
>    6.  Near the division of the starboard settee, in the back is a tube 
> containing the wires going to the mast.  Mine was very dirty from 20+ 
> years of crud.  I wanted to replace it but couldn't.  If you go deep 
> enough into the job this might be on your list, along with a 12 power 
> connection of #10 or so for some sockets on the port side. 
>    Access to some of the wiring can be found under the Galley cabinet that 
> forms the aft end of the settee.  Under there is all kinds of stuff, 
> including some of the fresh water tubing and in my boat the fresh water 
> pump located on a shelf under the galley storage bin.  I didn't know how 
> to do it, or I would have done some clean up under there. 
>    7  Others will point out changing the ammeter on the panel to a 
> voltmeter.  I chose to get a new ammeter with a shunt which I mounted in 
> the engine compartment.  I selected a 100 Amp setup.  There are 
> disagreements on which is better, so make your choice on who you trust. 
>    8.  If you keep a separate engine start battery, I recommend some kind 
> of automatic charger for the start battery to keep it topped off.  If 
> you are replacing your battery charger you might want to figure out if 
> you want an inverter/charger or an inverter with a separate charger to 
> have access to 110 when at sea.  Also if an inverter check out the 
> pure-sine wave types.  They are newer and make less noise.  I had the 
> psuedo sine type and the transformer noise drove my wife nuts.  But a 
> fast AC coffee pot is heaven on a cruise.  Use one with the stainless 
> caraf to avoid the continuous use of electricity, and preventing 
> breakage.  I popped one of the glass thermal types on a cruise and no 
> coffee until we could get another, well stove coffee, DUHH!! 
>    9. make sure to allow for autopilot, gps, and a separate circuit 
> entirely for VHF ( it should work even if the panel main breaker is 
> off.) 
>    10.  While you are at it adding extra 12 outlets for the VEE berth and 
> the Settee on both sides is a good idea. 
>    11.  If you are thinking of Solar panels or wind generator, these need 
> a 12V path to the battery that can be turned off/disconnected easily. 
> If going solar check out Blue Skies, they have one of the boost chargers 
> that will give you more charge time, and get the upgraded one for the 
> gassing of the batteries if you use lead acids with ventcaps (do not 
> gass charge a maintenance free battery unless you check their specs for 
> that capability). 
>    12.  If outfitting for cruising, check out the charge boosters.  They 
> will reduce your engine run time. 
>    13.  If you have the original engine, the alternator mounts will not 
> support a high output alternator (don't ask how I know!!!) 
>    14. There are a lot of different ideas on grounding any metal through 
> hulls or rails.  I won't comment, I'm no expert, just read as much as 
> you can and add the grounds you need when doing the rest. 
>    15.  If you are thinking of adding shortwave radio at any point add 
> that wiring and breaker at the same time, and add a ground plane.  Again 
> this is something that has lots of controversy.  Add it according to 
> whoever you believe.  Personally the suggestions in the Ham Radio books 
> on Marine Mobile seem pretty good. 
>    16.  If you can afford it, take your proposed wiring idea to a surveyor 
> and get his input.  These guys have seen everything, and especially if 
> you select one who has been in business for a while and knows cruisers. 
>    17.  Cimp all connections, use a racheting type crimper NOT ONE STAMPED 
> OUT OF SHEET METAL.  For engine cables use a hammer driven crimper or 
> take the cables to a good marine electrical shop and get them crimped 
> there.  I soldered mine, but it is a pain in the A**, so crimping is far 
> better especially with the right tools.  And they are not that expensive 
> (don't lend them out, they don't come back.)  On the smaller wires use 
> all marine terminals to crimp, with the heatshrink on them or add some 
> shoegoo or silicon and heat shrink to the terminals both sides.  Make 
> sure to put the heat shrink on first ;-) 
>     
>    I hope this helps and maybe inspires others to respond as well. 
> 
> Fair winds and following seas, 
> Les H 
> former skipper and chief mischief maker of JACE. 
> 
>> On Wed, 2015-03-04 at 05:30 +0000, 1derful at comcast.net wrote: 
>> 
>> What upgrades are recommended? 
>> 
>> Thanks, 
>> 
>> Patrick Harpole 
>> _______________________________________________ 
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>> Listserve at catalina38.org 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
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