[C38] Standing rigging

Wed Oct 26 00:38:54 EDT 2016

Thanks so much, Steve, this is very helpful as always.

As far as the forward jib tracks go, I put them there because the sailmaker recommended it. I don't really have a base for comparison since we just built our first real #3 and made it to be a 95% deck sweeping sail. The only thing I could compare against would be the original 110% 'blade' labeled sail that came with the boat, however, that sail is so blown out and a different construction (high clew, higher tack since it used to be on a furler) that I don't think comparing them makes sense. We had the #3 out for PSSC and it did really well in 25-30kts with gusts to the mid 30s. We were pointing high and could carry our full main so my initial impression is that I like the sail a lot.

I made the tracks long enough to provide a sheeting point for a #4 even though that might end up being sheeted to the rail more often than to a track inboard.

Floating leads for True Love sounds fancy, hope the boat is coming along nicely. For Image I was considering getting rid of the forward (outboard angled) genoa track in favor of one track with adjustable cars  and baberhaulers to pull a #2 outboard if needed. Then again though, I don't have a #2 (other than my roller furling cruising genoa) and since my #1 is relatively heavy and almost overlaps with the #3 in terms of wind range the barber haulers are a lower priority.

I'll send you a separate mail regarding the chainplates you have.

I'll also talk to Chris about the boom, thanks for recommending him. My current idea is to go to a PHRF code 6 or code 7 main. My sailmaker thinks he can fit a code 6 on the current boom but a code 7 the boom would have to be longer. A bunch of IOR boats seem to have good success with E+10% so I am tempted. On the other hand now that we have good headsails (a 155% carbon #1 in addition to the #3 I mentioned above) the boat already feels a lot more powered up.

The other issue with the current boom is that I ripped off the eye for the vang recently duing a jibe and looking at the parts there seems to be a corrosion issue with the eyes so I believe something has to be done for the two attachment points of the mainsheet.

Cheers
marc

From: Listserve [mailto:listserve-bounces at catalina38.org] On Behalf Of Steve Smolinske
Sent: Thursday, October 13, 2016 10:11 PM
To: Catalina 38 Listserve <listserve at catalina38.org>
Subject: Re: [C38] Standing rigging

Mark, Comments below in red

From: Listserve [mailto:listserve-bounces at catalina38.org] On Behalf Of Marc-Andrea Klimaschewski
Sent: Thursday, October 13, 2016 6:37 PM
To: listserve at catalina38.org<mailto:listserve at catalina38.org>
Subject: [C38] Standing rigging

Hi all,

Image needs her standing rigging replaced. I did some research and have a couple questions left that I hope you guys might have answers to:

Shrouds: Standard dimensions (5/16" 1x19) seem perfectly adequate, maybe even a bit overbuilt. I am planning to replace with new 5/16 1x19 and mechanical terminals. Has anyone done anything different (dyform, rod, spectra)? If so, how do you like it

Chainplates: People have gone up a size for the bow chainplate which I am going to do as well. As far as the other chainplates go, any recommendations in terms of pulling them? I already have the head furniture apart since I installed new jib tracks forward of the lower shrouds.  Do you point better?  We have always talked about putting a small track inside the shrouds on the cabin top for the number three.  We are doing it on the True Love when we start laying her hardware, along with floating leads.    Any advice for taking apart the hanging locker? Is it even needed? Also, the main chain plates seem two part with one part glassed in the hull. The joint seems to have failed in some boats. Mine look OK externally. Has anyone taken this apart and re-glassed? Should it be done?  Chain plates and leaking.....errrr  when you put it back together try reinstalling everything and tensioning it before you seal the chain plates, I suspect once they are under load any sealing job done prior goes out the door,  I have tried everything and ended up resealing then when they leak applying silicone every year to the outside of the chain plates....that finally worked.  I have some stainless chainplates I made a few years ago that are oversized and provide more area if youre interested I have a set still hanging around.  I found once removed under the old one in cases the screw holes were right on top of cut out and provided a leak path, let me know.

I pulled everything apart like youre doing a few years ago, since youre going to all the trouble open up the deck opening just enough to be able to get caulk around the entire chain plate when you put it all back together.  My boat had the chain plate in some instances butted against the deck as it passed through, also epoxy coat the deck openings so that any water intrusion does not soak the core.  My main chain plates were also glassed in however I was able to cut the fiberglass away from the bolts and was lucky enough that the nut was still glassed in place.  Inside the hanging locker the chain plate is connected to wire that is glassed to the hull, this is not true in the head, Ihad that same wire added and fun through the counter top where it is also glassed to the  hull..this fixed the issue I had with the deck pulling up in that area, the bulkhead in the head cabinetry was not sufficient in holding the deck down, I noticed the problem by the gap between the cabinets and the hull liner.  Not sure why you want to take apart the hanging locker it shouldn't have to be.

Mast: I think the only things I am going to do is replace the spinnaker track with a Harken ball bearing one, move main and spin halyard winches to the deck (like Peregrine), run new wires and install new lights. Any advice about the mast step? Has it been a problem? For the racing boats, how do you fix the mast to the step in order to comply with ORSs?  You can meet the rule by drilling and tapping a hole in the bottom of the mast so that you can put a screw through the mast into the step.

Running rigging: New sheaves and blocks, will add a mast collar and deck tie down to lead halyards aft. Looked at a bunch of pictures from other boats and I think I got a handle on it. Anything to be aware of?  I had a stainless steel halyard collar made and affixed it the aluminum step using the same bolts that hold the aluminum step to the deck.  I cut out mylar to place between the stainless and the aluminum so as not to have corrosion issues.  Best not to drill new holes in your boat if possible.  New running rigging isn't cheap spend the extra dollars on the lightweight stuff, good benefit in motion and heel to take weight out of the top of the mast.

Boom: This is the big question: Keep it or replace it? Whats wrong with it? I want to install a rigid vang so I need to stop it from rotating. Does anyone know if the gooseneck fittings catalinadirect sells work with our booms? Has anyone replaced a boom? How do you like it? I feel like it would be nice to be able to run reef-lines internally in order to have less chafe points for spin sheets and maybe go a couple inches longer in order to be able to put full pressure on the foot of the sail. It would also be interesting to remove the reefing winch and save some weight.  I keep the gooseneck and installed a garhauer rigid vang and have not had any problems with it.  You can call Chris Tutmark from Tutmark rigging and talk about using your current boom and running internal reef lines, Chris knows what he's doing.  That winch is pretty handy for reefing when you start getting above 20 knots, Id take a few beers off the boat and keep the winch.   If your looking for weight savings go with Dyneema life lines youll save about 18 pounds,  Chris Tutmark can splice them in for you.

Any insights are greatly appreciated

Cheers
marc
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://catalina38.org/pipermail/listserve_catalina38.org/attachments/20161026/aabdf742/attachment-0001.htm>