[C38] Wiring Diagram
Max Soto
maxsoto at hotmail.com
Thu Jun 15 10:52:54 EDT 2006
Hi guys,
Thanks for the diagram and all the information.
This will help me a lot!
Max Soto
C38 #198 ESTANCIA
Puntarenas, Costa Rica
>From: "Les Howell" <hlhowell at pacbell.net>
>Reply-To: Catalina 38 Listserve <listserve at catalina38.org>
>To: "Catalina 38 Listserve" <listserve at catalina38.org>
>Subject: Re: [C38] Wiring Diagram
>Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2006 20:01:44 -0700
>
>Hi, Everyone,
>
> Some important points about the electrical systems. First, note that
>the DC system is only grounded to the engine. This means that our entire
>12V system is isolated from the ocean, except through the transmission,
>coupling and shaft. We replaced the engine, transmission and shaft in
>JACE,
>and the new coupling is isolated which I think is supposed to reduce noise
>(note supposed !!!). Now JACE 's DC is totally isolated to ocean ground.
>This will impact your use of RADAR, VHF, and SSB radios. AM/FM stereos and
>TV's use a different means to generate their reception, but they, too will
>benefit from a good ground. I don't have a fixed GPS so I can't comment on
>that.
>
> The 120VAC system is totally isolated from ocean ground. I don't know
>if this is good or not, but you are relying on the condition of the earth
>ground at the dock to help prevent electrolysis and electrocution. Check
>your shore power cable at least annually. I installed a galvanic isolator
>in JACE, but when I added an inverter I didn't know what to do for safety
>ground. I am still looking into that. If you know any real good
>electrical
>types, who have solved this, please let me know.
>
> If you just need to solve the radiation ground, you can add copper
>inside the hull (4 square feet or more should do the job). But lightening
>protection may require something different. In any event, I would
>recommend
>finding out if your coupling is providing electrical ground for you, and
>also checking leakage with the battery isolated (switches off). This will
>help you check for any possible sources of electrolysis. Changing your
>zincs often will help as well. We put new through hulls in JACE, all
>Bronze. We were told to leave them isolated because having some connected
>and some isolated is potential for electrolysis to eat up the zinc from the
>bronze. Your engine through hull is probably already bronze (ours was),
>because of the constant rush of water and flexing of the hoses due to
>engine
>movement, it was fully isolated and had no electrolysis evident. You
>should
>periodically check that they are not showing pink (bronze tends to look
>pink
>if you scratch it when it loses zinc.)
>
> The charging path originally in the boats was from the alternator to
>the
>panel, through the ammeter, and back to the starter solenoid, where the
>system was wired to the power panel. Newer systems don't do this because
>it
>is a weak link in the charging system, and because it can potentially burn
>the wiring harness to the engine, so they put a voltmeter and tie the
>alternator directly to the starter solenoid. The panel gets its power from
>this point as well. You will notice that the wire from the engine to the
>switch and back to the engine is 10 or 12 AWG. This is because it carries
>the current for the solenoid and the engine heaters or the heater solenoid
>depending on how your engine is wired.
>
> If you have a multi bank battery charger, read its manual CAREFULLY.
>After noticing that my batteries were not fully topped off, I finally
>re-read mine and discovered that it required any unused outputs to be
>strapped to one of the used ones to get the charger to full output. I did
>that and gained about 15% more of my battery capacity. Since I notice that
>many people talk about batteries not being fully charged, I am suspecious
>that I am not the only one that missed that one line in my charger's paper
>work.
>
> I replaced the original wire from the solenoid to the panel in JACE as
>a
>safety precaution (it wasn't tinned). It needs to be between #0 and #2
>wire
>to carry the current required to start the engine. The switch in the panel
>changes the source for engine starting from battery 1 to battery 2, so the
>leads from the batteries to this switch also need to be heavy cable as
>well.
>The original house battery run in JACE went through the bilge, under the
>floor, up through the back of the chart table behind the drawers to the
>power panel. There were no clamps that I could find anywhere on this run.
>I ran the new cable the same way, but I don't like it, so re-routing it and
>adding clamps is on the to-do list. When replacing wire, use marine wire.
>It is finer, and the strands are tinned. This will help prevent sea water
>and salt air from corroding the wire, and because the strands are thinner,
>it is more flexible, meaning it will last longer in the flex of the boat.
>Standard recommendation is strapping wire every foot or so to help prevent
>unnecessary flex.
>
> The runs from the power panel to the mast go through a plastic hose on
>JACE, I don't know if this was standard or not. However I haven't found
>the
>entrance to the hose. I suspect it is inside the liner behind the chart
>table. I am planning on rewiring JACE sometime soon, so I will know more
>later.
>
> The run from the solenoid to the power panel goes across the roof of
>the
>engine space, down the starboard side of the door, through the area in the
>forward end of the quarter berth, up through the liner to the inside of the
>power panel. Once I realized I would be redoing this I ran a messenger
>line
>from the power panel down to the quarter berth area of nylon small stuff
>and
>tied it to a 6" piece of wood which I leave in place. It is long enought
>to
>let the line go three times through this area so I can tie wires to it and
>run them up to the panel.
>
> One of the worst bits on our boats are those riveted 3 way splices. I
>have replaced most of mine with butt joints big enough to hold two wires on
>one side and ensured the wires were well joined prior to insertion. I seal
>all my butt joints with some Marine Goop. easier than heat shrink and I
>don't have the opportunity to check out my fire extinguishers in sealing
>the
>joints (clumsy man with a lighter or matches oft gets burned). I also
>bought one of the ratcheting crimping tools. Get one, it is cheap and does
>a much better job than the one pressed from steel.
>
> During the past several years I have replaced many bits of the wiring
>with better bits, and eliminated several joints in each wire. Along with
>that I have removed a considerable amount of old electrical tape. In the
>years since our boats were built new materials make it easier to create
>better joints and have better seals. I recommend that any "erratic
>circuits" you have be investigated and rewired. It may save your boat.
>The
>connections from the panel, under the engine, and over to the port side are
>suspect because I know that I found three of those wonderful riveted
>connectors in the house wiring.
>
> At least one 38 had AWG 10 in one part of the AC circuit and AWG 12 in
>another part between the inlet for shore power and the panel. It had some
>burn points in the cable when it was replaced.
>
> The DC wiring is almost all AWG 16. going to AWG 12 or 14 will
>improve
>your lighting and make things easier, although it is a bit more expensive.
>For those of you overseas, You will have to check the metric conversion. I
>don't know the sizes in metric.
>
> As I get the physical routing all figured out, and figure out how to
>strap the new wiring in place, I will post all that as well.
>
>Good luck.
>
>Regards,
>Les H
>Les Howell Technical Specialist, Teradyne (retired) hlhowell at pacbell.net
>IM:
>OldETC (Yahoo) Professional Profile
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Charles Finn" <charles at finn.ws>
>To: "Catalina 38 Listserve" <listserve at catalina38.org>
>Sent: Wednesday, June 14, 2006 6:55 PM
>Subject: Re: [C38] Wiring Diagram
>
>
> >I have uploaded the Wiring Diagram to our website. You will find it in
> > C38-Specs. Thank you Bill Ferrara!
> >
> > Charles Finn
> > Mighty Quinn #114
> > Webmaster
> >
> > _______________________________________________
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> >
>
>
>
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