[C38] FW: Chain Plates

[Steve Smolinske]

Phil, 
 
So far so good, they passed the 5 minute hose test without any visible
leakage.  What I did was after removing the rigging and cleaning out the
old compound along with the teak trim piece below was to blow out the
opening with canned air to remove all debris.  Then since the clearances
are to small to get anything in to clean the chain plate I used a
product called Brakleen (brake parts cleaner).  to dissolve any residue
silicone and bedding compound.  I then spent over two days a total of
about 30 minutes on each opening with a hair dryer drying out the core.
Then placed the cover in place and taped the deck around it, removed the
plate.  Below I used clay to fill the openings into the cabin, then used
my caulk gun to squirt in the compound.   I used a plastic putty knife
to force the compound into the cracks, building up  a little pile of it
and then pressing it down with the putty knife.  I then liberally
applied compound around the plate, placed the cover on and screwed it in
place making sure I had lots of compound in the screw holes in the deck
and between the screw head and deck plate, wiped up the excess and then
removed the tape.   After it set I put a small bead around the deck
plate and the chain plate then smoothed it out with the rag as I cleaned
up the excess for good measure.  I let it cure for 24 hours before
reattaching the rigging and tuning the rig.   After that tested with the
hose.   
 
This time I used sika 291 rather than 3M 4200 on the advice of Seaview
East, they felt 4200 should have worked fine but that they preferred
291.  They also suggested using the hair dryer to make sure everything
was dry.  Also this time I used the brakleen where as last time I did
not do anything to the chain plate.  It sure was nice to look out the
port and see the hose flooding the chainplate and down below to see
nothing at all coming in,  fingers crossed that it will remain that way
for a number of years.
 
Steve 
Peregrine #312
Seattle    
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