[C38] bilge pumps

[Rich West]

Hi Everyone,
 
I have always meant to install a diaphragm bilge pump in addition to the
standard one I have now.  The diaphragm pumps will pump the bilge completely
dry and have a check valve system built in as part of the pump.  Using an
electronic pump controller, it's possible to run the diaphragm pump for a
set time period after the float switch turns off.  With the proper
pickup/strainer on the end, it will really dry the bilge.  
 
Here's the pump I had in mind:
http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|51|299222|84462|315208
<http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|51|299222|84462|315208&id=14371
5> &id=143715  
 
Rich, Legacy, #260 

  _____  

From: listserve-bounces at catalina38.org
[mailto:listserve-bounces at catalina38.org] On Behalf Of Duff, Russ (R.W.)
Sent: Monday, February 11, 2008 10:37 AM
To: Catalina 38 Listserve
Subject: Re: [C38] bilge pumps



Reading this last post made me think, why not put a check valve in the line
for the smaller pump, and leave the line for the bigger pump open. In an
ideal situation, the bigger pump would never come on, and if the check valve
in the smaller pump ever stuck closed, "No big deal", the bigger pump is
there. I think that is what I'm going to do. Thanks guys!

 

Sincerely,
Russ Duff
Catalina 38, Hull #112
"AVANTURA"
Lake Erie
Grosse Ile, Michigan
RDUFF AT VISTEON DOT COM

AVANTURA AT COMCAST DOT NET

 

  _____  

From: listserve-bounces at catalina38.org
[mailto:listserve-bounces at catalina38.org] On Behalf Of eyriepg at comcast.net
Sent: Monday, February 11, 2008 1:30 PM
To: hlhowell at pacbell.net; Catalina 38 Listserve
Subject: Re: [C38] bilge pumps

 

Something that I plan to do is put a small pump with a small hose in my
bilge.  This smaller pump would have less water to flow back into the bilge
after it stops because of the smaller diameter hose.  The pump that I have
now would only come on in emergencies if I elevated the float valve a couple
of inches.

 

Phil Gay

C38 049 Que Linda

Everett, WA

 

-------------- Original message -------------- 
From: Les <hlhowell at pacbell.net> 

> Hi, Ken, 
> I am not biased in any way, but most reputable sites will tell you not 
> to put check valves in bilge pump lines. One way to minimize back 
> flushing is a riser tube in the pump line, that goes from the pump up to 
> above the water line somewhere amidships, with a siphon break at the 
> top, like that used on the muffler systems. This would then reduce the 
> back flush to about a glass full. It is too bad that there is no "sump" 
> to speak of in our bilges. I haven't implemented that yet. One of the 
> other posters spoke of using two pumps and adding a float switch on the 
> shower sump so it would work as a bilge pump as well. That sounds like 
> a good idea, backup, plus if all three are working, that's a lot! of 
> water going out. 
> 
> Regards, 
> Les H 
> On Sun, 2008-02-10 at 19:38 -0800, Kenneth M. Sutto wrote: 
> > Here,s the problem. My bilge pump works fine except that when it 
> > shuts off all the bilge water in the outlet line runs back into the 
> > bilge. It's like I ever pumped it out. There is always about a half a 
> > two gallon bucket left floating. I want to put a check valve just 
> > past the pump to keep the water from running back. My worry is that 
> > once the line is full of water and the pump kicks in, will it be 
> > strong enough to pump out the water in the line plus what's in the 
> > bilge. I don't want to have to end up with some kind of 35hp ejector 
> > pump that sticks up through the floor boards 2 feet with a hose the 
> > size of a fire hose and needs four extra batteries to run it. 
> > Anybody with the same problem? > & gt; 
> > Ken Sundancer 
> > 
> > 
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