[C38] Spartite VS Mast boot

Les hlhowell at pacbell.net
Fri May 9 21:06:07 EDT 2008


The logic seems good, but you would have to make sure the boat is not
"hogged" athwartships.  That means that the shrouds
should have the same tension on them (which they may not be if you have
tuned the rig to compensate for the mast out of plumb).  A simple way to
verify the truth of the horizontal member is to use a bit of clear
tubing as a level.  Fill it with water with some food coloring in it
(for us old poor eyed folks), and then use the level of the water to
check the horizontal members.  This will make them true level with the
water line (note that the water will have to be really calm or you will
have to be on the hard and supported level.  Use this same spirit level
to verify that the waterline is setting level on the stands before you
start inside.  Then you can set up the horizontal board, and using a
plumbbob if on the hard, or a vertical board set perpendicular to the
horizontal board.  You can use a roofing square to ensure you are
perpendicular.  Then it should be OK, but you know the old adage,
measure twice cut once.

	Or as we used to say in the Navy, measure with a micrometer, mark with
chalk, cut with an axe == precision all the way.

Regards,
Les H
On Fri, 2008-05-09 at 15:48 -0700, Phil Gay wrote:
> Russ,
> 
> Actually it's not obvious at all since the boat is probably not floating
> perfectly level.  Que Linda appears to list to port, but I'm hoping that
> centering the mast step (moving it to port) will correct some of it.  The
> way to determine the center of the cabin sole was described to me by the
> LeFiell C38 owner.  He clamped a couple of 2x4s together and stretched them
> out across the cabin through the cabinets to the hull on each side of the
> boat.  He used the hull to deck joints as a reference.  He measured the
> middle of the 2x4s and placed another 2x4 (vertically mostly) perpendicular
> to the 2x4s across the boat at the midpoint.  Where the board meets the
> floor is the middle of the boat.
> 
> If this method is flawed, please let me know because I plan to use it next
> month.
> 
> Phil Gay
> C38 049 Que Linda
> Everett, WA
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: listserve-bounces at catalina38.org
> [mailto:listserve-bounces at catalina38.org] On Behalf Of Duff, Russ (R.W.)
> Sent: Friday, May 09, 2008 10:31 AM
> To: Catalina 38 Listserve
> Subject: Re: [C38] Spartite VS Mast boot
> 
> I have the same problem with where the mast is centered; though I can't
> remember which side, but I think it is starboard also. How can you tell the
> step is off center? What reference points did you measure from, or is it
> just that obvious?
> 
> Sincerely, 
> Russ Duff 
> RDUFF at VISTEON.COM 
> Product Assurance Electrical Engineer
> Visteon Corporation
> 25.2.027
> One Village Center Drive
> Van Buren Township, MI 48111-5711
>  
> Phone: 734-710-8713
>     Fax: 734-736-5612 
>  
> -----Original Message-----
> From: listserve-bounces at catalina38.org
> [mailto:listserve-bounces at catalina38.org] On Behalf Of Phil Gay
> Sent: Friday, May 09, 2008 12:47 PM
> To: hlhowell at pacbell.net; 'Catalina 38 Listserve'
> Subject: Re: [C38] Spartite VS Mast boot
> 
> One of the reasons that I didn't use Spartite was that my mast stood within
> 1/8" of the starboard side of the partners.  I recently learned from a C38
> owner at LeFiell that some mast steps were installed off center of the boat.
> I compared my mast step with other C38s this year and finally realized that
> my mast step is off center not the partners.  When I replace my mast this
> summer, I plan to move the step to centerline which is to port about 1 inch.
> 
> Phil Gay
> C38 049 Que Linda
> Everett, WA
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: listserve-bounces at catalina38.org
> [mailto:listserve-bounces at catalina38.org] On Behalf Of Les
> Sent: Friday, May 09, 2008 8:44 AM
> To: Catalina 38 Listserve
> Subject: Re: [C38] Spartite VS Mast boot
> 
> Long ago, rope gaskets were used to seal everything on a ship, so in
> that sense it is probably OK, but remember that if the rope is not fully
> impregnated it will eventually rot, unless it is nylon and I am not sure
> what would happen to nylon long term.
> 	However, the mast partners help transfer the energy from the sail to
> the boat hull.  On our boats, the original design was to shim the mast
> into the partners with rubber blocks to help absorb shock loads, deal
> with flex (from the loading, and temperature affecting the fiberglass
> and wood), and transfer the constant energy to the boat's deck.
> 
> 	With no shims, the loads are being held only by the mast step (about
> a
> 1/2" aluminum plate holds the foot of the mast, and locks it to the mast
> step).  I suspect that over time, this would mean some issues to the
> step, but you would have to ask Frank Butler or S&S about that.  Also
> shock loads may make the mast flex out of column enough to strike the
> partners, and could cause fiberglass to crack, or the partners to take
> more stress than intended.  Again, the designers could say more about
> that.
> 
> 	Russ, I don't think any yard would step the mast without securing it
> to
> the partners in some fashion, are you sure there are no shims in your
> installation?
> 
> Regards,
> Les H
> 
> On Fri, 2008-05-09 at 08:21 -0600, Max Soto wrote:
> > Hi,
> >  
> > My boat came with rope three strand rope between the mast, deck and
> > collar. A sela of silicone is at the top preventing water to come in.
> > I had no leaks, but just in case I added mast collar seal tape.
> > Is it ok to have rope and silicone in here?? 
> >  
> > Max
> > 
> >  
> > 2008/5/9, Duff, Russ (R.W.) <rduff at visteon.com>: 
> >         Somehow, I don't see how Spartite can make the mast partner
> >         any more waterproof than a good mast boot.  Am I missing
> >         something? I installed a good rubber mast boot (appropriately
> >         sealed) and have had no leaks. I also did not use any shims
> >         when the mast was installed. Can this be a problem?
> >         
> >          
> >         
> >         Sincerely,
> >         Russ Duff
> >         Catalina 38, Hull #112
> >         "AVANTURA"
> >         Lake Erie
> >         Grosse Ile, Michigan
> >         RDUFF AT VISTEON DOT COM
> >         
> >         AVANTURA AT COMCAST DOT NET
> >         
> >         
> >          
> >         
> >         
> >                                        
> >         ______________________________________________________________
> >         From: listserve-bounces at catalina38.org
> >         [mailto:listserve-bounces at catalina38.org] On Behalf Of Steve
> >         Smolinske
> >         Sent: Friday, May 09, 2008 3:20 AM
> >         To: hlhowell at pacbell.net; Catalina 38 Listserve
> >         Subject: Re: [C38] Bedding Shrouds and leaks
> >         
> >         
> >          
> >         
> >         I've been told by both the yard and the rigger to be careful
> >         with spartite both commented to make sure you follow the
> >         directions and apply vaseline to the inside of the deck ring.
> >         If not they warned that the spartite will adhere to both the
> >         mast and the ring making it extremely difficult to remove the
> >         mast in the future.  We just had a new boot put on when the
> >         mast got stepped, if we get water problems in the future I am
> >         going to use the spartite.  I like the load deflection
> >         characteristics along with all the reviews about how well it
> >         seals.  
> >         
> >         
> >          
> >         
> >         
> >         Steve
> >         
> >         
> >          
> >         
> >                                        
> >         ______________________________________________________________
> >         From: Les
> >         Sent: Thu 5/8/2008 10:24 PM
> >         To: Catalina 38 Listserve
> >         Subject: Re: [C38] Bedding Shrouds and leaks
> >         
> >         
> >         On Fri, 2008-05-09 at 00:15 -0400, Charles wrote:
> >         > By the way, I highly recommend Spartite.  My mast and collar had
> taken
> >         > a 
> >         > beating over the years with perhaps a too zealous application of
> mast 
> >         > shims.  Spartite solved this problem and I no longer get any
> water 
> >         > coming in the cabin from the mast.  Even better, mast stress on
> the
> >         > deck 
> >         > is evenly distributed which can never happen with shims.
> >          
> >         I'll second that.  We had water on every wet day coming into Jace.
> No
> >         delamination or other problems, but the mess on 
> >         the cushions at the forward port settee on the dinette were
> miserable.
> >         Spar-tite fixed it.  And our clay dam is still inplace as well.
> We had
> >         it done when the mast was pulled and painted.  We replaced all the
> >         standing rigging at that time as well.
> >          
> >         Someone asked about another location for leaks that caused drops
> near or
> >         at their chain plates.  On JACE the windows were leaking, and the
> >         stanchions were leaking.  We redid the windows (thank you Catalina
> >         Direct) and rebedded the stanchions with all new hardware.  The
> leaks
> >         ceased.  Last week at the boat we noticed some new drops.
> Checking it
> >         looks like either the toe rail (I'll need help with that), or the
> tracks
> >         for the fairleads.  That I can do myself, so sometime in the next
> week
> >         or two, I'll take that off and fix it.
> >          
> >         My current project is to add solar panels.  I have two 65 watt
> Kyocera
> >         panels which measuer about 30x25.  I am rigging a support across
> the
> >         center of the dodger (still cloth) which will hold a 1" stainless
> rail
> >         onto which I will clamp the solar panels.  This will add about
> 25lbs or
> >         so to the dodger, but should be well within limits.  The wind
> loading
> >         would not seem to be too great as a 2" stainless pipe stand with
> 1"
> >         cross bar is one of the options for most solar installations for
> panels
> >         up to 60" x 24", so mine should present less than 1/4 that in wind
> >         loading because they will be shielded by the dodger and mast.
> Time will
> >         tell.
> >          
> >         I like Max's rigid vang, and that may be one of our next
> purchases.
> >          
> >         Regards,
> >         Les H
> >         JACE
> >          
> >          
> >         _______________________________________________
> >         Listserve mailing list
> >         Listserve at catalina38.org
> >         http://catalina38.org/mailman/listinfo/listserve_catalina38.org
> >         
> >         _______________________________________________
> >         Listserve mailing list
> >         Listserve at catalina38.org
> >         http://catalina38.org/mailman/listinfo/listserve_catalina38.org
> >         
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > -- 
> > Max Soto
> > C38 #198 ESTANCIA
> > Puntarenas, Costa Rica 
> > _______________________________________________
> > Listserve mailing list
> > Listserve at catalina38.org
> > http://catalina38.org/mailman/listinfo/listserve_catalina38.org
> 
> 
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