[C38] floor cracks

Fri Jul 11 18:13:39 EDT 2008

Alden,
    Earlier you were asking about a retractable sprit. Forte has a 
carbon fibre kit which I am going to install. I am going to have 5 feet 
beyond the bow, two feet to the first saddle on deck and 14 feet of 
sprit overall. It will be manually retractable but we have folks on the 
foredeck flying the asymmetric chute anyway. The quote I got is around 
$2,400 including the attachment hardware. If you are interested I will 
send you the contact info. Joe Launie, Macavity, Commodore

alden Andre wrote:
> When I was looking for my boat I looked at 30 boats before choosing
> flybye. What I found was the boats in high wind areas had cracks in the
> floors at a higher rate than low wind areas. On further investigation
> the boats that had cracks used wood wedges to center the mast and had
> loose rigging. The boats that weren't cracked used spar tight and had
> usally bigger wire for standing rigging other than standard. I had two
> boats checked that had cracks and drilled test holes in the wood bases
> for rotten wood and they checked out ok so the cracking was caused by
> other forces on those boats.
>
> Alden Andre
> Office: 877-550-FJ44(3544) or 503-618-1951
> Cell: 503-929-8814
> Fax: 503-907-5507
> Email : alden at clifforddevelopmentgroup.com, or alden642 at comcast.net
>  
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: listserve-bounces at catalina38.org
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> listserve-request at catalina38.org
> Sent: Wednesday, July 09, 2008 9:00 AM
> To: listserve at catalina38.org
> Subject: Listserve Digest, Vol 4, Issue 195
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> Today's Topics:
>
>    1. floor cracks base of mast. (William Knowles)
>    2. Re: floor cracks base of mast. (Phil Gay)
>    3. Re: floor cracks base of mast. (Tom T.)
>    4. Cockpit layout (Steve Smolinske)
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2008 11:21:50 -0700 (PDT)
> From: William Knowles <william_k_19810 at yahoo.com>
> Subject: [C38] floor cracks base of mast.
> To: listserve at catalina38.org
> Message-ID: <133274.86519.qm at web56013.mail.re3.yahoo.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
>
> While cleaning our bilge and shower sump area and head after much
> nagging by the first mate I discovered that the floor at the aft base of
> the mast had a large crack with a downward angle. I stuck my head in the
> bilge and the post to the keel seems straight and strong. But a photo I
> took looks as if there is a tab that attaches the floor to the post and
> that seems to be cracked. Has anyone else had this problem?  The mast is
> sound and appears straight the boat sails great. I do have photos but
> the site would not allow me to post to large. Any ideas and  is this a
> major or minor problem that can wait to winter haulout. Thanks in
> advance for your help.
>
> Bill Flying Goose
>
>
>       
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2008 11:43:18 -0700
> From: "Phil Gay" <eyriepg at comcast.net>
> Subject: Re: [C38] floor cracks base of mast.
> To: <william_k_19810 at yahoo.com>,	"'Catalina 38 Listserve'"
> 	<listserve at catalina38.org>
> Message-ID: <000701c8e12a$7d8d56f0$78a804d0$@net>
> Content-Type: text/plain;	charset="us-ascii"
>
> Please try to attach a photo.  It will be delayed until the list
> moderator
> can approve it, but you should be successful.  Also what year is Flying
> Goose?
>
> Phil Gay
> C38 049 Que Linda
> Everett, WA
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: listserve-bounces at catalina38.org
> [mailto:listserve-bounces at catalina38.org] On Behalf Of William Knowles
> Sent: Tuesday, July 08, 2008 11:22 AM
> To: listserve at catalina38.org
> Subject: [C38] floor cracks base of mast.
>
> While cleaning our bilge and shower sump area and head after much
> nagging by
> the first mate I discovered that the floor at the aft base of the mast
> had a
> large crack with a downward angle. I stuck my head in the bilge and the
> post
> to the keel seems straight and strong. But a photo I took looks as if
> there
> is a tab that attaches the floor to the post and that seems to be
> cracked.
> Has anyone else had this problem?  The mast is sound and appears
> straight
> the boat sails great. I do have photos but the site would not allow me
> to
> post to large. Any ideas and  is this a major or minor problem that can
> wait
> to winter haulout. Thanks in advance for your help.
>
> Bill Flying Goose
>
>
>       
>
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> Listserve mailing list
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>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 3
> Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2008 15:02:22 -0400
> From: "Tom T." <tdtron at earthlink.net>
> Subject: Re: [C38] floor cracks base of mast.
> To: "william_k_19810 at yahoo.com,	Catalina 38 Listserve"
> 	<listserve at catalina38.org>
> Message-ID: <380-2200872819222218 at earthlink.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
>
>
> Hello Bill,
>
> It sounds like you have a soft mast step base.  I  had the same problem
> a
> few years ago.
>
> The support between the hull and mast step is wood on our boats and it
> can
> soften with age from being in the wet bilge.  The only way I know to fix
> the problem is to remove the mast.
>
> The ordeal goes something like this:
>
> 1.	Mark a grid on the deck around the mast with tape so you can
> reposition
> the mast in the exact same spot, or if you want to make any adjustment,
> allow for that with the tape grid because once you rebuild the mast
> step,
> you won't have any reference for replacing the aluminum mast step.
>
> 2.	Once you get the mast grid marked on the deck, spray PB Blaster
> around
> the aluminum mast step remove the mast.
>
> 4.	Remove the aluminum mast step if it's still attached to the
> deck. (It
> may have been pulled up with the mast if it was too badly corroded for
> the
> PB Blaster to release it.  
>
> 3.	Clean around the mast step and mark a line about one inch inside
> the
> recessed deck where the mast step was and cut this portion of the deck
> out.
>
> 4.	Get a drill and augers and start trying to remove as much of the
> soft
> wood of the mast compression base as you can.  Finish with chisels and
> hammer until the base is clean to the hull.
>
> 5.	Sand the area of the hull where the compression base was and
> build a dam
> using light wood to make a mold for a new compression base.  At this
> point,
> I installed 3 plastic electrical angles in the mold so I could route 3
> ground wires to the bilge, one forward to a keel bolt and two aft to
> keel
> bolts and engine.  These conduits will also allow the new mast step to
> drain any water directly to the bilge so the mast will not corrode in
> the
> future.
>
> 6.	Start laying up woven roving and resin until you have filled the
> mold
> making it flush with the old recess.  When you build to the height of
> the
> old deck, carefully finish laying up with finish cloth and grind it to a
> perfect finish.  If you don't make the deck with some way of
> repositioning
> the step properly, you won't be able to get the mast back where it
> should
> be.
>
> 7.	Dress the mast step with a wire brush and install it on top of
> the new
> compression base.  The bottom of my mast was so corroded I had to cut
> 1/4"
> off of the base of the mast to get a clean surface.  I cut a piece of
> 1/4"
> aluminum plate to fit in the recess to compensate for the plate.  I
> bedded
> this plate to the deck and new compression base.  My deck step looks
> like
> anyone else's but there is aluminum showing around the base of the mast
> instead of the original fiberglass.
>
> Grease the aluminum mast step with a waterproof trailer bearing grease
> once
> you have it in place.  You will have to make  holes through the base for
> any conduits if you elect to install any but in any case, allow for
> water
> to seep into your bilge so it can no longer accumulate in the mast step
> causing corrosion.  If you don't install conduits in the lay up process,
> you can drill a weep hole at an angle through the base plate and lay up
> since the new compression base is totally glass and resin and no longer
> vulnerable to moisture.  The original mast step had no provision for any
> accumulated water to drain so corrosion is a problem.
>
> 8.	If you elected to install mast grounding wires, install then now
> in the
> mast and grease the connections well.  I grounded my aluminum mast step
> to
> a forward keel bolt and ran two very large electric cables aft through
> two
> conduits giving my mast three ground paths through the keel.  By using
> plastic electrical conduit 90 degree angles in the base, you make any
> ground wires have as large as possible radius improving lightning
> protection.  I don't remember what size cable I used for my mast grounds
> but they are about as large as my index fingers.
>
> 9.	Replace mast or get drunk, depending on your success.
>
>
> I have some pictures of the procedure if you are interested.  It's a lot
> of
> work but fairly easy actually.  If you make your cut in the deck
> slightly
> smaller than the aluminum mast step, the finished project will not show
> any
> of your repairs.  You could prefab the new compression base and bed it
> in
> the hull if you want.  I formed mine in place but either way will work. 
> Which ever method you use, I highly recommend building into the base the
> electrical angles for both grounding wires and a drain for water.
>
> Grounding out the old wood is a chore but the softer it is, the easier
> the
> project.  If you pre-drill the wood before chiseling like I did, use a
> drill stop so you don't hit the hull and find a geyser shooting up from
> your bilge.
>
> Good luck,
> Tom Troncalli
> The Renata #95 
>
>   
>> [Original Message]
>> From: William Knowles <william_k_19810 at yahoo.com>
>> To: <listserve at catalina38.org>
>> Date: 7/8/2008 2:21:50 PM
>> Subject: [C38] floor cracks base of mast.
>>
>> While cleaning our bilge and shower sump area and head after much
>>     
> nagging
> by the first mate I discovered that the floor at the aft base of the
> mast
> had a large crack with a downward angle. I stuck my head in the bilge
> and
> the post to the keel seems straight and strong. But a photo I took looks
> as
> if there is a tab that attaches the floor to the post and that seems to
> be
> cracked. Has anyone else had this problem?  The mast is sound and
> appears
> straight the boat sails great. I do have photos but the site would not
> allow me to post to large. Any ideas and  is this a major or minor
> problem
> that can wait to winter haulout. Thanks in advance for your help.
>   
>> Bill Flying Goose
>>
>>
>>       
>>
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>> Listserve mailing list
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> 7/8/2008
> 6:33 AM
>   
>
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 4
> Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2008 12:12:19 -0700
> From: "Steve Smolinske" <SSmolinske at rainierrubber.com>
> Subject: [C38] Cockpit layout
> To: "Catalina 38 Listserve" <listserve at catalina38.org>
> Message-ID: <392501BCC93AAC4EA94D28D8DB1599221DD503 at sockeye.4M.local>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
> I have a couple of posts held up by the moderator for size as well, so
> Ill try to keep this to a short question without the aid of the pic or
> drawing.  I dont like the way my cockpit is set up, mainly that the main
> sheet and main halyard share the same winch.   Deck hardware includes on
> the port two rope clutches and one lewmar 30, on the starboard one rope
> clutch and a lewmar 16.   I am thinking that on the port is should go
> spin. foreguy, spin t. lift, genoa hlyrd, main hlyrd, traveler,  then on
> the starboard, traveller, mainsheet, vang leaving room on the deck
> organizer for either cunningham or reefing, If this still makes sense
> what is the starboard rope clutch intended for?  would you use it for
> the mainsheet?
>  
> Steve Smolinske
> President
>  
> 4M Company, Inc.
> 15660 Nelson Place South
> Seattle, WA  98188
> 425-227-4500
> www.rainierrubber.com <http://www.rainierrubber.com/> 
>  
> The information contained in this email may be confidential and/or
> proprietary in nature and is intended for the recipient of the email
> only.  Please treat all information contained in this and any
> communication with the 4M Company as such.  Thank you.
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> P Before printing, think about ENVIRONMENTAL responsibility
>  
>  
>  
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