[C38] standing rigging

[Steve Smolinske]

Ken, 

We did our rigging a year ago and did not use any tools to set the tension, After the mast was set, it was then centered fore and aft and then amid ship tightening the turnbuckles just a few turns at a time until it was straight up and down.  The head stay and back stays were tightened by the yard till the rigger was happy with the tension and sag.   then the shrouds tighened until when you pulled on them you could pull about a 1/2".  After that the tension was set under sail in moderate winds going on a tack and taking out the slop on the leeward side, then changing tacks and doing the same.  We repeated this until the rig was tight on all tacks and we were happy with the alignment.  I always checked the alignment after each tack by sighting up the mast to make sure no bends appeared.   If I remember correctly the way to straighten a bend is to loosen the side that the tip of the mast is falling towards rather than tightening the other side.  I also seem to remember that you start at the top and work your way down the panels 

Steve
Peregrine #312
Seattle




From: Kenneth M. Sutto
Sent: Mon 1/5/2009 6:34 PM
To: Organization - listserve at catalina38
Subject: Re: [C38] standing rigging


Max, when you replaced your rigging how did you set the tension on the wires? Also if you did set the tension where did you get the information and what tool did you use?
 
 Ken
    Sundancer #251





Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2009 08:30:14 -0600
From: maxsoto at gmail.com
To: listserve at catalina38.org
Subject: Re: [C38] standing rigging

Hi Ken,



I replaced my standing rigging by myself a couple of years a go with sta-lock swageless fittings. I bought everything from http://www.riggingonly.com/. Great prices!!
They advised me to stay with the original wire diameter. A chain will be as strong as the weakest link, and the toggles, which usually fail first will remain with the same pin diameter unless I redrilled or replaced chainplates, so, I stood with the same wire diameter (5/16").  I also changed from 304 to 316 stainless steel, 5% less stronger but has more corrosion resistance. I just had 42knts a couple of months ago on a race, had a chinese gybe, and everything is still ok. Chainplates are another story. Just took apart the one on the starboard forward shorud, and was very corroded with a lot of cracks. I have to replace that one and check the others........
The wire lenghts are on the C38 org  webpage. 
Hope this helps,


Max Soto
C38 #198 Estancia
Puntarenas, Costa Rica


2009/1/4 Kenneth M. Sutto <kmspacific at hotmail.com>

            I am looking into redoing my standing rigging on Sundancer this spring. The rigging is the same since she was built in1983.  I want to go larger on the on the wires or go with rod rigging.  Has anyone replaced their rigging recently with rod rigging or heavier wires? If so did you have to beef up your hull and mast attachments?
 
           Regards,
                Ken




It's the same Hotmail®. If by "same" you mean up to 70% faster. Get your account now.

_______________________________________________
Listserve mailing list
Listserve at catalina38.org
http://catalina38.org/mailman/listinfo/listserve_catalina38.org





-- 





Send e-mail anywhere. No map, no compass. Get your Hotmail® account now. 
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://catalina38.org/pipermail/listserve_catalina38.org/attachments/20090105/b2e5bb3d/attachment-0001.htm>