[C38] cutlass bearing replacement

Larry Malmberg larrypi at linkline.com
Mon Feb 9 14:18:39 EST 2009


Tom, what with Steve Orton's info, yours and others this could be a very
good article for the Mainsheet Tech.  Especially the cutlass bearing pullers
etc.  different designs, how to make one etc.  Just a though from me, we
don't have the problem of the shaft getting in the way of the rudder, shaft
comes out just fine on our boat but I do think we have a different strut for
the bearing.  Take a look at our haul out on this website:
 
 
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/hassleracing/
 
Go to photos and 1-31-09 and take a look, lots of blisters being repaired
there too.  LOL  But, new paint from the toe rail on down and we are doing
the topside too.




Best regards,

Larry Malmberg-President

Larry Malmberg Investigations and Security, Inc.
505 North Arrowhead Avenue - Suite 510
San Bernardino, CA 92401-1200
909-383-8565, 800-655-4549 Facsimile 909-383-8566
PI 15211, PPO 112446

www.larrypi.com


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From: listserve-bounces at catalina38.org
[mailto:listserve-bounces at catalina38.org] On Behalf Of Tom T.
Sent: Monday, February 09, 2009 10:38 AM
To: Catalina 38 Listserve
Subject: Re: [C38] cutlass bearing replacement


I found Glen's report of his cutlass problems very interesting.  I
especially agree with his remark that the alignment must be done with the
boat in the water and not on the hard.
 
Another item I found interesting was his reference to his houka diving rig.
We have seen this spelled "hookah" but I don't know which is correct but
Glen is right about not trusting oil crankcase piston type compressors.  A
diaphragm compressor is the safest but if you must use a piston type
compressor, like if you are going too deep for the low pressures of a
diaphragm type, you can substitute common mineral oil for crank case oil in
a piston type compressor to practically eliminate the chance of oil
poisoning the discharged air.  The exception to this is if the compressor is
allowed to get too hot, it can "diesel" any oil collected in the compression
chamber causing enough carbon monoxide to kill anyone breathing from the
system.  Unlike an engine, oil will collect in the compression chamber
making dieseling a problem if the compressor overheats.  With an open hookah
system, the pressure shouldn't get high enoug h for this to be a problem if
the compressor gets plenty of cooling ventilation.
 
I have used a mineral oil lube piston type compressor to fill scuba thanks
for many years and with the high pressures encountered with filling scuba
tanks, dieseling is a real concern. I doubt an open hookah system would ever
suffer such a fate unless the compressor lost it's cooling fan, was put in a
closed un vented area, etc.  Just keep the compressor cool in any case and
as Glen said, keep the compressor intake upwind from any smoke, exhaust,
etc.
 
Tom Troncalli
 
 
 

----- Original Message ----- 
From: Glen Robinson <mailto:g.a.robinson at sbcglobal.net>  
To: listserve at catalina38.org
Sent: 2/9/2009 12:45:37 PM 
Subject: Re: [C38] cutlass bearing replacement



(This is on topic, but perhaps somewhat lengthy for what I believe to be
necessary details.)
 
Right after purchasing, we hauled SNOWBIRD.  The yard foreman told me that
the ribs in the cutlass bearing were filled with calcium and salt deposits
which would impede water flow for lubrication and lead to bearing failure.
As we were preparing to cruise to the wilderness of Mexico, and wanted
everything top-notch, the bearing was replaced.  I observed what seemed
excessive pounding with a drift to drive the new bearing the last 1/2' into
the strut, but presumed they knew what they were doing.
Fast forward to mid-November in Bahia Muertos, Baja Mexico, some 1200 miles
later.  Buddy boating with 2 others, we hauled anchor at midnight for the
120 mile upwind motor-sail to La Paz.  It was moonless and dark, 15-20K
wind, & rough, choppy seas.  As we turned north out of Muertos we developed
a severe, noisy vibration, which we determined to be the cutlass bearing.
What to do?  It is a sailboat, after all.  Moreover, it's a C-38, probably
the very best boat in the Baja for a tough weatherly leg.  We simply killed
the engine, unrolled a bit of the 135 jib, and beat into La Paz.  The boat
was hauled, the shaft pulled, checked for true on a lathe, replaced, with
the engine micro-critically aligned, & the cutlass bearing replaced,
including a set screw, which was tapped into the strut housing.  (Again I
observed what I believed excessive pounding to seat the bearing into the str
ut).  After launching the shaft coupling was fine-tuned for alignment.
As we were embarking on a cruise up the often-remote inside of the Baja, and
the cutlass bearing appeared chronic, I purchased a Sears teflon-sealed
paint compressor and had a Mexican dive shop build a houka with a 50' hose.
I then drew up a design for a cutlass bearing puller/reinstaller, which used
a split sleeve, 2 collars, 2-18" pieces of 3/8" althread (turned from square
stock) all of which was fabricated from stainless at the old Pepsi Plant.  I
also bought 3 additional cutlass bearings.
About 250 miles later, while anchorage-hopping up the now windless Baja
peninsula with Bob & Judy on AMAZING GRACE, the bearing went out.  Bob, a
retired diesel mechanic, towed us the last 7 miles into Agua Verde.  At
anchor the next day, I fired up the compressor, Bob put on the houka, I
donned snorkel mask & fins & we dove in.  Working in the water, we removed
the prop then pressed out the bearing.  As I had never even tried it, we
were delighted at the puller, even though it took us a little over 4 hours,
due to the conditions and Bob's insistence that we keep the pressure even on
the althreads.  The next day, after filing out the distortion in the strut
housing caused by the set screw installation (the pressure point from the
set screw seemed to be the origin of the bearing failure) we installed the
new bearing, pressing it into place agonizingly slow--again due to the
conditions and Bob's insist ence that everything be advanced evenly and
precisely.  It took only about 3 hours, and we motor-sailed the Sea of
Cortez the rest of the season, then trucked SNOWBIRD back to Stockton, CA.
I went to the Catalina factory, where all were mystified at my problem.  I
also posted on this forum, where all were mystified at my problem.  At
Catalina's suggestion I hauled & replaced the shaft with a new stainless
shaft & new coupling.  I then replaced (pulled and reinstalled--very slowly
and carefully, using my puller and no pounding!) the cutlass bearing.
Examination of the old bearing showed absolutely no sign of wear--even after
several hundred miles since its' underwater installation.
In over 9 years and several hundred miles of Delta and coastal motoring
since, I have had no more cutlass bearing incidents.
My observations/conclusions:
1.  Coupling alignment is critical, & must be done with the boat in the
water, and not in a yard cradle.
2.  Always supervise all phases of removal and reinstallation of your
cutlass bearing.  If they must pound it, something probably is wrong  (An
exception may be where a tube can be used--to apply the force evenly on the
bearing).
3.  When long-distance cruising, always plan for the worst-case
scenario--especially with critical systems and components showing tendancy
to fail.
4.  Stainless is great--except for bolts and nuts under pressure.  It WILL
gall and seize (as mine did.  Probably, without the lubrication of the
water, mine would have failed, entirely).  The althread now is brass.
Thankfully, I have not had to test its effectiveness.
5.  Houka rigs must be considered cautiously.  While still employed in
Mexico, oil-sealed compressors must not be used. as they can cause serious
injury.  After study, I used a teflon-sealed compressor, but would advise
doing your own research before getting any of them.  Also be sure to have a
good, clean air intake supply (e.g. away from diesel exhaust.  Seems
obvious, I know, but still worth the reminder). 
Here's hoping you enjoy your cruising and sailing hours as much as we did.
glen
SNOWBIRD
C-38 
 
--- On Sun, 2/8/09, bob gouley <r.gouley at sympatico.ca> wrote:


From: bob gouley <r.gouley at sympatico.ca>
Subject: [C38] cutlass bearing replacement
To: listserve at catalina38.org
Date: Sunday, February 8, 2009, 6:40 PM


     I slid the prop shaft past the rudder no problem. I used a hack say
with the blade turned upside down to cut the old bearing and removed with a
pair of pliers.  The new bearing was pressed into place using a 14 in long
by half inch  thick threaded rod with large washers and nuts on both ends.
remove the nut from one end and place the bearing onto the rod, slide the
bearing through the strut.  Place the washer and nut back on the end of the
rod and tighten the nuts pressing the bearing into the strut.  It helps to
freeze the bearing first, you should not heat the strut.  I beveled the end
of the prop shaft so it would not damage the inside rubber of the bearing as
I pushed the prop shaft through the strut, stern tube and into the coupling.
That is how I did it hope this helps. 
 
bob gouley
st joseph island
ontario canada
zephyr
hull # 142 
r.gouley at sympatico.ca 
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