[C38] Alternator and charging

Tue Jul 7 01:04:06 EDT 2009

Max,  

ACR stands for Automatic Charging Relay,  it combines the two banks during charging and isolates during discharge.   Mine is hooked up so that when the engine starts it goes to the start bank first and then after 30 seconds connects the two banks so the voltage equalizes and then charges both.   http://bluesea.com/category/2/productline/overview/386

On the bluse sea switch http://bluesea.com/files/resources/instructions/6011_web_version.pdf  it isolates the two banks except when you need to combine for emergencies.   Rather than choices for which bank to use the old 1, 2 or 1&2 it only has on and combine.  In the on position both banks are providing power one to house one to start but are never combined unless you choose the combine option.  To charge all you do is select on and start the engine.  

Steve

<http://bluesea.com/category/2/productline/overview/386>  

________________________________

From: listserve-bounces at catalina38.org on behalf of Max Soto
Sent: Mon 7/6/2009 5:14 PM
To: Catalina 38 Listserve
Subject: Re: [C38] Alternator and charging

Hi Steve, 

Just a couple of questions:

What's that ACR is this some kind of isolator or charging relay???
I have this switch on Estancia, but in my case the current from the alternator runs directly to the house battery bank, and a Xantrex Echo Charger tranfers current from this bank to the starting battery.

How do you charge the second battery bank??? You have to use the Blue Seas switch on "emergency start" to charge both banks at the same time??

Regards,

Max

2009/7/6 Steve Smolinske <SSmolinske at rainierrubber.com>

	Conclusion for everyone on this item,  I took Tom's advice and what a difference in the system.  I ended up having the alternator and starter tested and rebuilt ($125) new brushes, regulator and contacts.  When hooking it back up I ran current from the alternator directly to the starter then on to the battery switch.  The wires that use to lead the current up to the ampmeter and then back to the starter (red and orange #10) one was abandonded and the other powers the new voltmeter with an inline fuse.   I also replaced the battery switch with Blue Seas newer switch that completly isolates the house and start banks with the exception of emergency combine, just one choice on or off for normal operation, no more 1, 2 or 1&2 to confuse the admiral.  It also turns out that the problem most likely was an incorrectly installed ACR,  there are two important small wires that allow the ACR to sense both banks.  Even though the ACR wiring was probably the culprit it is a nice feeling after tearing things apart to realize that all that current from the alternator is no longer going through two undersized wires and a suspect wire harness but instead is being carried by a battery cable to the batteries. 

	Steve 
	Peregrine #312
	Seattle

________________________________

	From: listserve-bounces at catalina38.org on behalf of Tom T.
	Sent: Mon 6/29/2009 3:27 PM
	To: Catalina 38 Listserve
	Subject: Re: [C38] Alternator and charging

	Hello Steve,

	You are correct.  The 30 amp fuse in your charging circuit is too small to carry the load if the batteries are discharged or you are running other high load applications.  I expect they may be using a small fuse to try to reduce the maximum load on the wiring harness which has been a problem in the past.

	To carry a high amperage load to your engine control panel is not only a lot of electrical loss but it can be dangerous if your harness connections are corroded.  There have been many original engine control harnesses burned up because of the high load on the amp meter wires in that harness.

	The amp meter isn't needed anyway.  You can have an amp meter showing a lot of amps but if your battery bank is shorted, you will only be creating heat on the harness and load on your engine but a shorted battery will never charge with the amp meter giving you a false sense of security.   A volt meter gives a better idea of your charging and battery conditions.

	A more practical solution to the amp meter is to replace the original amp meter with a marine grade volt meter.  To do this, you run the output of the alternator directly to your battery banks and use the original wires to the amp meter to feed a new volt meter.  You can run the feed to the volt meter from the positive side of the starter solenoid since it is very close to the alternator making a very easy conversion.

	The volt meter conversion is a very good and highly recommended upgrade.  It will make your boat safer and your alternator will perform better because more output will go to the battery bank instead of wasted in heat loss in the harness and possible faulty connectors.

	Fuse the wire that you run from the solenoid to the new volt meter.  There will be very little current on that wire now so even a small fuse like 5 amps will do fine.  The fuse should be very close to the alternator for safety.  

	It has been a long time since I made this modification on my boat but I believe the harness wire used for the volt meter conversion is an orange wire.  I wrote an article for Mainsheet several years ago about this conversion but I don't remember what year or month it was but I'm sure I can find a draft copy in my archives if you need it, just let me know and I'll look for it.

	Good luck,

	Tom Troncalli
	Renata (Hull #95)

		----- Original Message ----- 
		From: Steve Smolinske <mailto:SSmolinske at rainierrubber.com>  
		To: Catalina 38 Listserve <mailto:listserve at catalina38.org> 
		Sent: 6/29/2009 4:35:25 PM 
		Subject: [C38] Alternator and charging

		Tom T, I'm hoping you can add some insight on this.   I suspected my system wasn't charging so I took the alternator and starter off and had them both tested, they are fine, and since there off I took the precaution to have the regulator, brushes and contacts replaced.  Going over the wiring diagram for the M30 They call out #10 wire with a 30 amp fuse inline from the amp meter to the Starter Solenoid.  Knowing that a regulator varies charge based on battery condition/charge and rpm isn't a 30 amp fuse undersized, and why a fuse anyway, shouldn't the wire be sized correctly to handle the highest load the system would see.   

		Steve Smolinske
		President

		4M Company, Inc.
		15660 Nelson Place South
		Seattle, WA  98188
		425-227-4500
		www.rainierrubber.com <http://www.rainierrubber.com/> 

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