[C38] Alternator and charging
Max Soto
maxsoto at gmail.com
Tue Jul 7 13:52:06 EDT 2009
HI Steve,
Now it makes sense. I thought you run the wire from the alt directly to the
starter, and I was thinking how you were using the new switch, but if you
have it directly hooked up to a battery bank it should be working great.
I have almost the same setup but the alt wire runs directly to the house
bank. I was going to use the same ACR, but since I have different battery
technologies I went for the echo charge(just 15 amps, but enough for a
starting battery)..
I agree with you that the charging system has never worked as good as with
this setup.
Max
2009/7/6 Steve Smolinske <SSmolinske at rainierrubber.com>
> Max,
>
> ACR stands for Automatic Charging Relay, it combines the two banks during
> charging and isolates during discharge. Mine is hooked up so that when the
> engine starts it goes to the start bank first and then after 30 seconds
> connects the two banks so the voltage equalizes and then charges both.
> http://bluesea.com/category/2/productline/overview/386
>
>
> On the bluse sea switch
> http://bluesea.com/files/resources/instructions/6011_web_version.pdf it
> isolates the two banks except when you need to combine for emergencies.
> Rather than choices for which bank to use the old 1, 2 or 1&2 it only has on
> and combine. In the on position both banks are providing power one to house
> one to start but are never combined unless you choose the combine option.
> To charge all you do is select on and start the engine.
>
> Steve
>
>
> <http://bluesea.com/category/2/productline/overview/386>
>
> ________________________________
>
> From: listserve-bounces at catalina38.org on behalf of Max Soto
> Sent: Mon 7/6/2009 5:14 PM
> To: Catalina 38 Listserve
> Subject: Re: [C38] Alternator and charging
>
>
> Hi Steve,
>
> Just a couple of questions:
>
> What's that ACR is this some kind of isolator or charging relay???
> I have this switch on Estancia, but in my case the current from the
> alternator runs directly to the house battery bank, and a Xantrex Echo
> Charger tranfers current from this bank to the starting battery.
>
> How do you charge the second battery bank??? You have to use the Blue Seas
> switch on "emergency start" to charge both banks at the same time??
>
> Regards,
>
> Max
>
>
>
> 2009/7/6 Steve Smolinske <SSmolinske at rainierrubber.com>
>
>
> Conclusion for everyone on this item, I took Tom's advice and what
> a difference in the system. I ended up having the alternator and starter
> tested and rebuilt ($125) new brushes, regulator and contacts. When hooking
> it back up I ran current from the alternator directly to the starter then on
> to the battery switch. The wires that use to lead the current up to the
> ampmeter and then back to the starter (red and orange #10) one was
> abandonded and the other powers the new voltmeter with an inline fuse. I
> also replaced the battery switch with Blue Seas newer switch that completly
> isolates the house and start banks with the exception of emergency combine,
> just one choice on or off for normal operation, no more 1, 2 or 1&2 to
> confuse the admiral. It also turns out that the problem most likely was an
> incorrectly installed ACR, there are two important small wires that allow
> the ACR to sense both banks. Even though the ACR wiring was probably the
> culprit it is a nice feeling after tearing things apart to realize that all
> that current from the alternator is no longer going through two undersized
> wires and a suspect wire harness but instead is being carried by a battery
> cable to the batteries.
>
> Steve
> Peregrine #312
> Seattle
>
> ________________________________
>
> From: listserve-bounces at catalina38.org on behalf of Tom T.
> Sent: Mon 6/29/2009 3:27 PM
> To: Catalina 38 Listserve
> Subject: Re: [C38] Alternator and charging
>
>
>
>
> Hello Steve,
>
> You are correct. The 30 amp fuse in your charging circuit is too
> small to carry the load if the batteries are discharged or you are running
> other high load applications. I expect they may be using a small fuse to
> try to reduce the maximum load on the wiring harness which has been a
> problem in the past.
>
> To carry a high amperage load to your engine control panel is not
> only a lot of electrical loss but it can be dangerous if your harness
> connections are corroded. There have been many original engine control
> harnesses burned up because of the high load on the amp meter wires in that
> harness.
>
> The amp meter isn't needed anyway. You can have an amp meter
> showing a lot of amps but if your battery bank is shorted, you will only be
> creating heat on the harness and load on your engine but a shorted battery
> will never charge with the amp meter giving you a false sense of security.
> A volt meter gives a better idea of your charging and battery conditions.
>
> A more practical solution to the amp meter is to replace the
> original amp meter with a marine grade volt meter. To do this, you run the
> output of the alternator directly to your battery banks and use the original
> wires to the amp meter to feed a new volt meter. You can run the feed to
> the volt meter from the positive side of the starter solenoid since it is
> very close to the alternator making a very easy conversion.
>
> The volt meter conversion is a very good and highly recommended
> upgrade. It will make your boat safer and your alternator will perform
> better because more output will go to the battery bank instead of wasted in
> heat loss in the harness and possible faulty connectors.
>
> Fuse the wire that you run from the solenoid to the new volt meter.
> There will be very little current on that wire now so even a small fuse
> like 5 amps will do fine. The fuse should be very close to the alternator
> for safety.
>
> It has been a long time since I made this modification on my boat
> but I believe the harness wire used for the volt meter conversion is an
> orange wire. I wrote an article for Mainsheet several years ago about this
> conversion but I don't remember what year or month it was but I'm sure I can
> find a draft copy in my archives if you need it, just let me know and I'll
> look for it.
>
> Good luck,
>
> Tom Troncalli
> Renata (Hull #95)
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Steve Smolinske <mailto:SSmolinske at rainierrubber.com
> >
> To: Catalina 38 Listserve <mailto:listserve at catalina38.org>
> Sent: 6/29/2009 4:35:25 PM
> Subject: [C38] Alternator and charging
>
>
> Tom T, I'm hoping you can add some insight on this. I
> suspected my system wasn't charging so I took the alternator and starter off
> and had them both tested, they are fine, and since there off I took the
> precaution to have the regulator, brushes and contacts replaced. Going over
> the wiring diagram for the M30 They call out #10 wire with a 30 amp fuse
> inline from the amp meter to the Starter Solenoid. Knowing that a regulator
> varies charge based on battery condition/charge and rpm isn't a 30 amp fuse
> undersized, and why a fuse anyway, shouldn't the wire be sized correctly to
> handle the highest load the system would see.
>
>
> Steve Smolinske
> President
>
> 4M Company, Inc.
> 15660 Nelson Place South
> Seattle, WA 98188
> 425-227-4500
> www.rainierrubber.com <http://www.rainierrubber.com/>
>
>
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--
Max Soto
C38 #198 ESTANCIA
Puntarenas, Costa Rica
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