[C38] Listserve Digest, Vol 6, Issue 369 Heater (alden andre)(standing rigging)
Les
hlhowell at pacbell.net
Fri Nov 19 16:56:43 EST 2010
Hi, Joe,
We did all the standing rigging on JACE with 5/16" stainless, and
norseman fittings. The fittings ran about $50-80 each. the wire I
think was about 3.89/foot. I just bought a spool. We labeled each of
the guys and stays while they were on the boat using paper labels
wrapped with clear packaging tape before the mast was unstepped. (we did
this at the same time I had the mast Awlgripped (wish I had known about
powder coating!!!).
We streteched each line out on the pavement near out house and measured
the cut point. We cut the line by a simple trick. I drilled a 3/8"
hole through a piece of 2x4, then clamped that to a sawhorse. Then I
would run the cable through that (the spool was suspended between two
other saw horses on a piece of pipe I clamped down to them using a
notched block. I used a hacksaw to cut a vertical groove into the holed
2x4 block and then ran the cable through it, and out to the street for
measuring. Then I would measure and mark it, then retract it to the
block and cut it for the length I needed. Then I would mark the length
just like the original, with packing tape and a paper label.
The only warning is to make sure that the assembled length is correct.
I measured all the fittings to be sure that when the cable end was stuck
inside the norseman fitting I knew exactly how much more length was
equal to the overall length of the original cable and crimped on
fitting(s).
The entire cost was about 1200 if I remember right, and the total wire
length was just over 343 feet (you can NOT rely on the measurements from
the drawings, because the boats are sometimes slightly different, or the
hardware has been moved or replaced with a different piece.) I did add
a second toggle at the stern to ease some of the stress on the backstay
chain plate. The angle just wasn't quite right, even in the original
setup.
The basic bill of materials is something like:
300' wire
10 turnbuckles with "T" fittings
10 eye ends (check your mast fitting ends on the existing wires)
1 toggle for the stern (optional, but I recommend it)
Use some non stretch line or a length of small flexible cable to
measure mast centering. Attach it to a slide fitting for your mast, and
use the halyard to position it at 1/3, 2/3, and top of the mast checking
for equal length at each point. You may want to slant the mast back a
bit if you are a racer, and if you do, you may need to adjust the
lengths of the lowers, forestay and back stay to accomplish that, but be
aware that there is not any slop for the mast except the small margin
around the partners.
One good thing we did was to get the mast sealed in place with a rubber
compound. There are a couple of versions on the market, and any of them
work well. Mast leaks are a thing of the past for us. If you do it
yourself, make sure you don't bond the mast to the deck. Just to the
tophat. Use plumbers putty to fill from below the headliner to just
above deck level. You can leave that in there even afterwards, we did.
It is not noticable.
For some reason, the starboard forward lower ended up just a bit
shorter than the original. A mis-measurement perhaps? But there was
enough length to work OK.
Remember measure twice, cut once.
There is no shortcut to lengthening one of these wires, just a do-over
with more wire. Not to worry, keep the old for a spare (we started with
the longest first working to the shortest, just in case).
Here are the wire lengths from specs== look on webpage and verify that
the fittings you get match the length (Notice that on the webpage, the
measurement was from the center of the eye to the end of the stud.)
Basics: forestay 1 (50'5.5")
backstay 1 (52'5.24")
topstay 2 (49'4")
midstay 2 (34'7.5)
forelowers 2(17'9"')
foreafters 2(18')
eyes at the top of each 10 total
turnbuckles at the lower ends 10 total
added toggle on the aft stay. 1 total
NOTE that the forestay and aftstay have 1/2 studs and turn buckles.
This is probably overkill, since the 5/16 wire will break before the 3/8
turnbuckles. But to remain consistent with the design, I strongly
recommend you follow Catalina's recommendations. Remember that you have
about 200 hp tugging at that mast in full sail at 20kts. Not to mention
you spinnaker "go for broke" guys.
There are a number of different wire types. If you go for the dymel (I
think I spelled that right) which has a smoother outer appearance, there
may be a requirement for a specific norseman fitting. Remember to seal
the fittings to prevent crevice corrosion. Other than that, the whole
job was simple, just basically time consuming.
I am attaching a drawing of my "cutting block". You may find it
helpful. Also put the hacksaw blade in so it cuts on the draw not the
push. This will help prevent you "forcing the blade", and make the cuts
smoother with fewer spreads on the ends.
Regards,
Les H
On Wed, 2010-11-17 at 21:46 -0800, Joseph Launie wrote:
> Larry,
>
> Macavity carries some to avoid scurvy. I am pulling the mast and
> replacing the standing rigging including turnbuckles because of age. Has
> anyone dune this recenly and have an idea of cost? Joe Launie/Macavity
>
> On 11/17/2010 3:14 PM, Larry Malmberg Live wrote:
> > Ahhh yes, racing fluid, I would recognize it anywhere.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Best regards,
> >
> > Larry Malmberg
> >
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: listserve-bounces at catalina38.org
> > [mailto:listserve-bounces at catalina38.org] On Behalf Of Chuck Finn
> > Sent: Wednesday, November 17, 2010 2:12 PM
> > To: Catalina 38 Listserve
> > Subject: Re: [C38] Listserve Digest, Vol 6, Issue 369 Heater (alden andre)
> >
> > Below is a picture of my heater on the Mighty Quinn (the two guys in the
> > picture were part of my crew doing what we do best)!
> >
> > This is the Dickenson Newport propane heater. I like it because
> > installation is easy compared to the diesel types and it really does heat
> > the cabin. It does not draw combustion air from the cabin, which
> > means I never have to worry about carbon monoxide or propane gasses.
> > I had one of their fireplaces on a previous boat that could burn wood or
> > coal, but the propane version is so much easier to use and keep clean.
> > Probably the best part is you can get right up next to it to warm up (just
> > like a stove). Besides, my wife says they are pretty and really do dry out
> > the cabin.
> >
> > Chuck Finn
> > Mighty Quinn #114
> > Great (frigid) Lakes
> >
> > On 11/17/2010 2:33 PM, Phil Gay wrote:
> >
> >> Steve,
> >>
> >> I am planning to put some heat on Que Linda as well this winter and am
> >> interested in your choices. There are probably other cool weather
> >> sailors who would be interested.
> >>
> >> BTW thanks for putting a pertinent well illustrated article in the
> >> Technical part of the November "Mainsheet."
> >>
> >> Phil Gay
> >> C38 049 Que Linda
> >> Everett, WA
> >>
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > Listserve mailing list
> > Listserve at catalina38.org
> > http://catalina38.org/mailman/listinfo/listserve_catalina38.org
> >
> >
>
> _______________________________________________
> Listserve mailing list
> Listserve at catalina38.org
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