[C38] Listserve Digest, Vol 6, Issue 369 Heater (alden andre)(standing rigging)
Joseph Launie
jlaunie at cox.net
Sat Nov 20 02:31:07 EST 2010
Max,
It helps a lot. it says something for Riging Only that you and I
both found them. Being essentially helpless hese days, I am just going
o throw money a the problem and have iggging Only do it all. Thanks o
your infoJoe Launie/Macavity
On 11/19/2010 3:47 PM, Max Soto wrote:
> Joe,
>
> Just as Les, I did it myself. Bought the 5/16" 316 stainless wire from
> riggingonly.com <http://riggingonly.com> in MA, they have great prices
> and are highly recommended, but in order to save some bucks at that
> time, I requested what they call the "caribbean rig", which means
> that every wire came already cut with a foot larger than the specs
> with a swage terminal on top, and I just had to measure to the right
> lenght, cut and install a swageless STA-LOCK fitting on the turnbuckle
> side. I just used a standard hand saw, this wires are very easy to
> cut, it just takes some patience....
> The price was about $1600 about five years ago without the turnbuckles
> bodies. All terminals and t-bolts with togless were included.
>
> I replaced all the wires with the mast up.. I changed one wire at the
> time, so it took a lot of up and down trips aloft....
> As I was taking a wire down, I measured each of them and compared to
> the wire specs on the C38 web and all of them matched perfectly....not
> even a 1/16" difference.
> Les, I guess you are a little bit wrong about the turnbuckles
> size...... Headstay and backstay are 5/8", and all the shrouds are
> 1/2"...not a single 3/8"...
>
> The double jaw toggles for the headstay and backstay had to be
> purchased at Lefiell, since I wasn't able to find a regular replacement.
> With my lack of experience in rigging bak then, I foud it was a very
> easy job... It just took a whole Saturday and lots of sunblock to
> replace all the wires(had no furling unit back then). I tunned the rig
> on Sunday.....
> Hope this helps...
>
> Max
> 2010/11/19 Les <hlhowell at pacbell.net <mailto:hlhowell at pacbell.net>>
>
> Hi, Joe,
> We did all the standing rigging on JACE with 5/16"
> stainless, and
> norseman fittings. The fittings ran about $50-80 each. the wire I
> think was about 3.89/foot. I just bought a spool. We labeled each of
> the guys and stays while they were on the boat using paper labels
> wrapped with clear packaging tape before the mast was unstepped.
> (we did
> this at the same time I had the mast Awlgripped (wish I had known
> about
> powder coating!!!).
>
> We streteched each line out on the pavement near out house
> and measured
> the cut point. We cut the line by a simple trick. I drilled a 3/8"
> hole through a piece of 2x4, then clamped that to a sawhorse. Then I
> would run the cable through that (the spool was suspended between two
> other saw horses on a piece of pipe I clamped down to them using a
> notched block. I used a hacksaw to cut a vertical groove into the
> holed
> 2x4 block and then ran the cable through it, and out to the street for
> measuring. Then I would measure and mark it, then retract it to the
> block and cut it for the length I needed. Then I would mark the
> length
> just like the original, with packing tape and a paper label.
>
> The only warning is to make sure that the assembled length
> is correct.
> I measured all the fittings to be sure that when the cable end was
> stuck
> inside the norseman fitting I knew exactly how much more length was
> equal to the overall length of the original cable and crimped on
> fitting(s).
>
> The entire cost was about 1200 if I remember right, and the
> total wire
> length was just over 343 feet (you can NOT rely on the
> measurements from
> the drawings, because the boats are sometimes slightly different,
> or the
> hardware has been moved or replaced with a different piece.) I
> did add
> a second toggle at the stern to ease some of the stress on the
> backstay
> chain plate. The angle just wasn't quite right, even in the original
> setup.
>
> The basic bill of materials is something like:
> 300' wire
> 10 turnbuckles with "T" fittings
> 10 eye ends (check your mast fitting ends on the existing
> wires)
> 1 toggle for the stern (optional, but I recommend it)
>
> Use some non stretch line or a length of small flexible
> cable to
> measure mast centering. Attach it to a slide fitting for your
> mast, and
> use the halyard to position it at 1/3, 2/3, and top of the mast
> checking
> for equal length at each point. You may want to slant the mast back a
> bit if you are a racer, and if you do, you may need to adjust the
> lengths of the lowers, forestay and back stay to accomplish that,
> but be
> aware that there is not any slop for the mast except the small margin
> around the partners.
>
> One good thing we did was to get the mast sealed in place
> with a rubber
> compound. There are a couple of versions on the market, and any
> of them
> work well. Mast leaks are a thing of the past for us. If you do it
> yourself, make sure you don't bond the mast to the deck. Just to the
> tophat. Use plumbers putty to fill from below the headliner to just
> above deck level. You can leave that in there even afterwards, we
> did.
> It is not noticable.
>
> For some reason, the starboard forward lower ended up just
> a bit
> shorter than the original. A mis-measurement perhaps? But there was
> enough length to work OK.
>
> Remember measure twice, cut once.
>
> There is no shortcut to lengthening one of these wires,
> just a do-over
> with more wire. Not to worry, keep the old for a spare (we
> started with
> the longest first working to the shortest, just in case).
>
> Here are the wire lengths from specs== look on webpage and
> verify that
> the fittings you get match the length (Notice that on the webpage, the
> measurement was from the center of the eye to the end of the stud.)
>
> Basics: forestay 1 (50'5.5")
> backstay 1 (52'5.24")
> topstay 2 (49'4")
> midstay 2 (34'7.5)
> forelowers 2(17'9"')
> foreafters 2(18')
> eyes at the top of each 10 total
> turnbuckles at the lower ends 10 total
> added toggle on the aft stay. 1 total
>
> NOTE that the forestay and aftstay have 1/2 studs and turn
> buckles.
> This is probably overkill, since the 5/16 wire will break before
> the 3/8
> turnbuckles. But to remain consistent with the design, I strongly
> recommend you follow Catalina's recommendations. Remember that
> you have
> about 200 hp tugging at that mast in full sail at 20kts. Not to
> mention
> you spinnaker "go for broke" guys.
> There are a number of different wire types. If you go for
> the dymel (I
> think I spelled that right) which has a smoother outer appearance,
> there
> may be a requirement for a specific norseman fitting. Remember to
> seal
> the fittings to prevent crevice corrosion. Other than that, the whole
> job was simple, just basically time consuming.
> I am attaching a drawing of my "cutting block". You may
> find it
> helpful. Also put the hacksaw blade in so it cuts on the draw not the
> push. This will help prevent you "forcing the blade", and make
> the cuts
> smoother with fewer spreads on the ends.
>
> Regards,
> Les H
>
>
> On Wed, 2010-11-17 at 21:46 -0800, Joseph Launie wrote:
> > Larry,
> >
> > Macavity carries some to avoid scurvy. I am pulling the
> mast and
> > replacing the standing rigging including turnbuckles because of
> age. Has
> > anyone dune this recenly and have an idea of cost? Joe
> Launie/Macavity
> >
> > On 11/17/2010 3:14 PM, Larry Malmberg Live wrote:
> > > Ahhh yes, racing fluid, I would recognize it anywhere.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Best regards,
> > >
> > > Larry Malmberg
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: listserve-bounces at catalina38.org
> <mailto:listserve-bounces at catalina38.org>
> > > [mailto:listserve-bounces at catalina38.org
> <mailto:listserve-bounces at catalina38.org>] On Behalf Of Chuck Finn
> > > Sent: Wednesday, November 17, 2010 2:12 PM
> > > To: Catalina 38 Listserve
> > > Subject: Re: [C38] Listserve Digest, Vol 6, Issue 369 Heater
> (alden andre)
> > >
> > > Below is a picture of my heater on the Mighty Quinn (the two
> guys in the
> > > picture were part of my crew doing what we do best)!
> > >
> > > This is the Dickenson Newport propane heater. I like it because
> > > installation is easy compared to the diesel types and it
> really does heat
> > > the cabin. It does not draw combustion air from the cabin, which
> > > means I never have to worry about carbon monoxide or propane
> gasses.
> > > I had one of their fireplaces on a previous boat that could
> burn wood or
> > > coal, but the propane version is so much easier to use and
> keep clean.
> > > Probably the best part is you can get right up next to it to
> warm up (just
> > > like a stove). Besides, my wife says they are pretty and
> really do dry out
> > > the cabin.
> > >
> > > Chuck Finn
> > > Mighty Quinn #114
> > > Great (frigid) Lakes
> > >
> > > On 11/17/2010 2:33 PM, Phil Gay wrote:
> > >
> > >> Steve,
> > >>
> > >> I am planning to put some heat on Que Linda as well this
> winter and am
> > >> interested in your choices. There are probably other cool
> weather
> > >> sailors who would be interested.
> > >>
> > >> BTW thanks for putting a pertinent well illustrated article
> in the
> > >> Technical part of the November "Mainsheet."
> > >>
> > >> Phil Gay
> > >> C38 049 Que Linda
> > >> Everett, WA
> > >>
> > >
> > >
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > Listserve mailing list
> > > Listserve at catalina38.org <mailto:Listserve at catalina38.org>
> > > http://catalina38.org/mailman/listinfo/listserve_catalina38.org
> > >
> > >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > Listserve mailing list
> > Listserve at catalina38.org <mailto:Listserve at catalina38.org>
> > http://catalina38.org/mailman/listinfo/listserve_catalina38.org
>
>
>
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>
>
>
> --
> Max Soto
> C38 #198 ESTANCIA
> Puntarenas, Costa Rica
>
>
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