[C38] Listserve Digest, Vol 6, Issue 369 Heater (alden andre)(standing rigging)

[Les]

Please check your turnbuckles.  I think I copied the numbers from the
spec sheet, but according to Max Soto, the numbers are wrong for the
turnbuckle sizes.  Again, as I said, check your own boats fittings
carefully.  These guys were in production for many years and have been
around about 30, so things change.

Regards,
Les H

On Fri, 2010-11-19 at 23:24 -0800, Joseph Launie wrote:
> Les,
>     Like wow. Your help with this is great. I have 2 bad hips so have
> to hire out these jobs but I have a plan. I am going to take the boat
> to the  yard and have the mast pulled.A sign of Santa Barbara, the
> yard  will charge me $200/week to store the mast plus the hoist and
> travellift time both in and out. I am going to box up all the wires
> (after labeling them) and ship them to my rigger, Jeff at Rigging Only
> in Fairhaven, Mass. They will duplicate it and send it back.  Jeff
> helped me with our  electric winches and traveler replacement
> projects. They seem to know what they are doing. In this harbor, I
> know more than most of the "riggers" which is scary. Thanks again. Joe
> Launie/Macavity
> 
> On 11/19/2010 1:56 PM, Les wrote: 
> > Hi, Joe,
> > 	We did all the standing rigging on JACE with 5/16" stainless, and
> > norseman fittings.  The fittings ran about $50-80 each.  the wire I
> > think was about 3.89/foot.  I just bought a spool.  We labeled each of
> > the guys and stays while they were on the boat using paper labels
> > wrapped with clear packaging tape before the mast was unstepped. (we did
> > this at the same time I had the mast Awlgripped (wish I had known about
> > powder coating!!!).
> > 
> > 	We streteched each line out on the pavement near out house and measured
> > the cut point.  We cut the line by a simple trick.  I drilled a 3/8"
> > hole through a piece of 2x4, then clamped that to a sawhorse.  Then I
> > would run the cable through that (the spool was suspended between two
> > other saw horses on a piece of pipe I clamped down to them using a
> > notched block.  I used a hacksaw to cut a vertical groove into the holed
> > 2x4 block and then ran the cable through it, and out to the street for
> > measuring.  Then I would measure and mark it, then retract it to the
> > block and cut it for the length I needed.  Then I would mark the length
> > just like the original, with packing tape and a paper label.
> > 
> > 	The only warning is to make sure that the assembled length is correct.
> > I measured all the fittings to be sure that when the cable end was stuck
> > inside the norseman fitting I knew exactly how much more length was
> > equal to the overall length of the original cable and crimped on
> > fitting(s).
> > 
> > 	The entire cost was about 1200 if I remember right, and the total wire
> > length was just over 343 feet (you can NOT rely on the measurements from
> > the drawings, because the boats are sometimes slightly different, or the
> > hardware has been moved or replaced with a different piece.)  I did add
> > a second toggle at the stern to ease some of the stress on the backstay
> > chain plate.  The angle just wasn't quite right, even in the original
> > setup.
> > 
> > 	The basic bill of materials is something like:
> > 	300' wire
> > 	10 turnbuckles with "T" fittings
> > 	10 eye ends (check your mast fitting ends on the existing wires)
> > 	1 toggle for the stern (optional, but I recommend it)
> > 
> > 	Use some non stretch line or a length of small flexible cable to
> > measure mast centering.  Attach it to a slide fitting for your mast, and
> > use the halyard to position it at 1/3, 2/3, and top of the mast checking
> > for equal length at each point.  You may want to slant the mast back a
> > bit if you are a racer, and if you do, you may need to adjust the
> > lengths of the lowers, forestay and back stay to accomplish that, but be
> > aware that there is not any slop for the mast except the small margin
> > around the partners.  
> > 
> > 	One good thing we did was to get the mast sealed in place with a rubber
> > compound.  There are a couple of versions on the market, and any of them
> > work well.  Mast leaks are a thing of the past for us.  If you do it
> > yourself, make sure you don't bond the mast to the deck.  Just to the
> > tophat.  Use plumbers putty to fill from below the headliner to just
> > above deck level.  You can leave that in there even afterwards, we did.
> > It is not noticable.
> > 
> > 	For some reason, the starboard forward lower ended up just a bit
> > shorter than the original.  A mis-measurement perhaps?  But there was
> > enough length to work OK.  
> > 
> > 	Remember measure twice, cut once. 
> > 
> > 	There is no shortcut to lengthening one of these wires, just a do-over
> > with more wire.  Not to worry, keep the old for a spare (we started with
> > the longest first working to the shortest, just in case).
> > 
> > 	Here are the wire lengths from specs== look on webpage and verify that
> > the fittings you get match the length (Notice that on the webpage, the
> > measurement was from the center of the eye to the end of the stud.)
> > 
> > 	Basics: forestay 1 (50'5.5")
> > 		backstay 1 (52'5.24")
> > 		topstay  2 (49'4")
> > 		midstay  2 (34'7.5)
> > 		forelowers 2(17'9"')
> > 		foreafters 2(18')
> > 	eyes at the top of each 10 total
> > 	turnbuckles at the lower ends 10 total
> > 	added toggle on the aft stay. 1 total
> > 
> > 	NOTE that the forestay and aftstay have 1/2 studs and turn buckles.
> > This is probably overkill, since the 5/16 wire will break before the 3/8
> > turnbuckles.  But to remain consistent with the design, I strongly
> > recommend you follow Catalina's recommendations.  Remember that you have
> > about 200 hp tugging at that mast in full sail at 20kts.  Not to mention
> > you spinnaker "go for broke" guys.
> > 	There are a number of different wire types.  If you go for the dymel (I
> > think I spelled that right) which has a smoother outer appearance, there
> > may be a requirement for a specific norseman fitting.  Remember to seal
> > the fittings to prevent crevice corrosion.  Other than that, the whole
> > job was simple, just basically time consuming.
> > 	I am attaching a drawing of my "cutting block".  You may find it
> > helpful.  Also put the hacksaw blade in so it cuts on the draw not the
> > push.  This will help prevent you "forcing the blade", and make the cuts
> > smoother with fewer spreads on the ends.
> > 
> > Regards,
> > Les H
> > 
> >