[C38] corrosion and Rigid Vang installation

S Orton ssorton at hotmail.com
Fri Mar 11 13:41:15 EST 2011


I used 4200 between all ss fittings and aluminum spars- you want to completely seal the interfaces so no salt water is trapped.  On the threads use the teff-gel.
Steve O
 


Date: Fri, 11 Mar 2011 10:31:11 -0800
From: jsorensen at novarx.com
To: listserve at catalina38.org
Subject: Re: [C38] corrosion and Rigid Vang installation










Hi Phil,
 
I’d really appreciate a photo or two of what you have done.  I want our new vang to last as long as possible.  I wonder if there is a difference in gooseneck fittings through the years.
 
Jay
 




From: listserve-bounces at catalina38.org [mailto:listserve-bounces at catalina38.org] On Behalf Of Phil Gay
Sent: Friday, March 11, 2011 10:21 AM
To: 'Catalina 38 Listserve'
Subject: Re: [C38] corrosion and Rigid Vang installation
 
In the gooseneck fitting there is a shaft that allows the boom to rotate when the boom is sheeted out.  I removed the fitting, oriented it so that the boom would be in the upright position.  Then I drilled a hole through the casting and the stainless (I believe) shaft and put a bolt through them.
 
If you have any other questions, just give me a call 206 947-6095.
 
Phil
 

From: listserve-bounces at catalina38.org [mailto:listserve-bounces at catalina38.org] On Behalf Of Steven Ribble
Sent: Friday, March 11, 2011 9:41 AM
To: Catalina 38 Listserve
Subject: Re: [C38] corrosion and Rigid Vang installation
 
Points well taken, so what does pinning the gooseneck/boom involve?

 

Steve

On Fri, Mar 11, 2011 at 11:52 AM, Phil Gay <eyriepg at comcast.net> wrote:


I tried to mount my vang plate on the mast as low as practical to make the loads more vertical on the plate than horizontal.  I think this puts more shear loads on the screws than tension loads.  I would definitely use screws sized according to the holes in the vang plate rather than rivets.  The only problem I had tapping the holes was that I didn’t get one of the holes perpendicular to the plate.  A very important thing to remember is to pin the gooseneck to prevent the boom from rotating axially (twisting).  This movement will destroy the vang.
 
Phil Gay
C38 049 Que Linda
Everett, WA
 

From: listserve-bounces at catalina38.org [mailto:listserve-bounces at catalina38.org] On Behalf Of Steven Ribble
Sent: Friday, March 11, 2011 7:57 AM



To: Catalina 38 Listserve
Subject: Re: [C38] corrosion and Rigid Vang installation


 
Thanks for the comments.  I'll talk to my rigger about rivets vs. bolts ...yes, I'm having someone install it...I'll put holes in the deck all day long, but I chicken out when it comes to the spars. ;-)  Good to know about the instructions, I was about to call mark.  And Jay, pictures are always welcome!

 

Steve

On Fri, Mar 11, 2011 at 10:55 AM, Jay Sorensen <jsorensen at novarx.com> wrote:


Hi Steve,
 
I installed our new Garhauer vang 2 weekends ago.  I drilled and tapped ¼ x 20 threads for ¼ x 20 SS bolts.  We used Teff Gel as Max described below.  We’ll see how it holds up.   I recommend starting with a much smaller hole than you think and see if tap works at all.  Our first hole has shallow threads.  Lesson learned.
 
We followed the Garhauer instructions.  They are on their website.  Once the boom settled after initial installation it appears a bit droopy, but for trimming the main it is necessary to go below horizontal with the boom.  If you’d like I can take pics this weekend while we are down at the boat.
 
Jay Sorensen
C-38, Broad Reach #311
San Diego, CA
 




From: listserve-bounces at catalina38.org [mailto:listserve-bounces at catalina38.org] On Behalf Of Max Soto
Sent: Friday, March 11, 2011 7:38 AM
To: Catalina 38 Listserve
Subject: Re: [C38] corrosion and Rigid Vang installation


 
Steve, To avoid corrosion, you can use Teff Gel and that's it, no need for plastic liner....That will avoid corrosion between stainless and aluminum......

Max

2011/3/11 Don Strong <drstrong at ucdavis.edu>

Steve: 
We have a Garhauer rigid vang. Vigorous jibing by my kids ripped the rivet-attached vang from the boom a couple of years ago. The rivet holes had built up lots of corrosion in the 9 or so years since its installation. The rivet heads pulled out through the corroded donuts around the holes. There was not much corrosion between the vang bracket and the boom. We reattached the bracket to the boom with 3/8" bolts, for which we tapped holes into the boom. The kids haven't been able to wreck the reinstall, yet.
Don

On 3/11/11 7:06 AM, Steven Ribble wrote: 
Hi Folks; 

 

So I just received my Garhauer rigid vang...all shiny and new...can't decide if I want to put it on the boat or over the mantel! :)  OK, it will go on the boat...but with that comes the question "does anyone have any lessons learned that I should know about?" Max had indicated that I should/could put a plastic gasket (cut from a milk jug, etc) between the vang brackets and the mast/boom...what about the compression of the vang when the boom is "level" (mid-range of the vang?) and/or mounting height on the mast?  Anything else to plan for?
-- 
Steve Ribble

Tittravate #64
207/852-0971 _______________________________________________Listserve mailing listListserve at catalina38.orghttp://catalina38.org/mailman/listinfo/listserve_catalina38.org
 -- Donald R. StrongProfessorDept. of Evolution and EcologyUniversity of California, Davis 95616

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-- 
Max Soto
C38 #198 ESTANCIA
Puntarenas, Costa Rica

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