[C38] Stuffing the Stuffing Box

[Max Soto]

David,
Tom said everything that you need to know.... Is very easy to replace it...I
think that Tom forgot to mention that the packing size on most of our boats
 is 3/16"..

Regrads,
Max

2011/5/10 tdtron at earthlink.net <tdtron at earthlink.net>

>
> Hello David,
>
> It's been years since I repacked our stuffing box and hopefully someone
> else can elucidate on my reply but until then, I am going to try to relay
> what I can remember about repacking a stuffing box.
>
> The stuffing box has a large nut that compresses the stuffing material.
> You will need a large pair of either pipe wrenches or home made wrenches to
> work the nut and also hold the bellows end of the stuffing box so you don't
> rip the bellows.
>
> Once you get the nut unscrewed, move it forward toward the flex coupling
> and you should then be able to remove and replace the stuffing material.  I
> don't remember what stuffing size our boats take but I used the Gortex type
> stuffing which makes for an almost drip proof stuffing without the
> liability of the dripless type stuffing boxes that can fail. Maybe someone
> else has the brand name and size our stuffing boxes use.  I bought my
> Gortex type stuffing material at a boat show and have loved it ever since.
> There is almost no drip but unlike the true dripless designs, a Gortex
> upgrade can be performed on existing equipment without having to remove the
> shaft.  I replaced my stuffing material while sitting at the dock.  The
> water that came in from the cutlass bearing wasn't enough to bother me
> although I admit I didn't go to lunch until the project was finished.
>
> Since the Gortex type stuffing material is only an upgrade to the original
> type material, it is still water lubricated but since it still leaks
> slightly, you don't need to "burp" the stuffing box like you do with true
> dripless type seals.  There is no comparison to the Gortex upgrade as to
> the true dripless conversions.
>
> Regardless of the type stuffing material you use, and I can't speak highly
> enough of the Gortex type, the installation procedure is the same.
>
> Wrap an exposed portion of the shaft with the new material and with a knife
> mark where the material makes a complete loop.  Cut the material about
> 1/16" too long so it will slightly compress when installed.  I think my
> stuffing box took three pieces of material.
>
> Place the three pieces of material around the shaft at 120 degree intervals
> so each break is a third of the way around from any other break.  Slide the
> nut back on the stuffing box and carefully tighten the nut while holding
> the stuffing box with another wrench.
>
> Tighten the nut until there is only a small trickle of water leaking from
> the seal.
>
> Crank the engine and let it run for a few minutes, stop the engine and
> adjust the packing nut again until the drip is about one drip per 5
> seconds.
>
> After you use the engine for at least 20 minutes, adjust the Gortex type
> seal again to reduce drip after the seal has broken in.  The directions
> supplied with the packing material will give better information than my CRS
> memory but once the new packing is broken in, you should have almost no
> water drip after final break in adjustment.
>
> The only thing different about packing the new Gortex type seal and
> conventional material is the amount of water needed for shaft lubrication.
> The Gortex material is self lubricating to a degree and requires less water
> so your bilge will stay dryer from less drip.
>
> Hopefully someone else can add more or correct any mistakes I have made
> from my aging memory.
>
> Tom Troncalli
>
>
>
> > [Original Message]
> > From: <david at dlrfilms.com>
> > To: Catalina 38 Listserve <listserve at catalina38.org>
> > Date: 5/10/2011 8:24:44 AM
> > Subject: [C38] Stuffing the Stuffing Box
> >
> > When I first bought INTEMPERANCE we had her haul for a survey and took
> the
> > opportunity to do some out of the water work on her, including repacking
> > the stuffing box.
> >
> > Unfortunately that was 3 1/2 years ago, and I cant really remember what
> we
> > did, except for cutting piece of waxy string.
> >
> > Does the prop shaft need to come out or be detatched? I have one of those
> > red plastic "drive-saver" thingies. it doesn't look like it will be too
> > much trouble to get it all apart.
> >
> > Help?
> >
> >
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>
>
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-- 
Max Soto
C38 #198 ESTANCIA
Puntarenas, Costa Rica
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