[C38] Overheat False Alarm

david at dlrfilms.com david at dlrfilms.com
Mon Jun 6 11:38:59 EDT 2011 

I seem to remember reading something similar on the Westerbeke/Universal
website a year or two ago, but damned if I can find it again.


> I wasn't aware that hot vapor could cause false gauge readings. I have
> noticed totally the opposite on several engines, after some loss of
> coolant
> I noticed that the temp on the gauge totally fell because there was no
> coolant in contact with the sender....
>
> When I replaced the coolant on my engine I was dealing with that
> bubble..You
> know that you have it when the engine temp is rising and you touch the
> heat
> exchanger and it is cool.. Tried everything and at the end my uncle came
> and
> told me to hammer the engine for a few seconds at as max as the lever
> permits (without the cap). After a few seconds the bubble came out and
> almost immediately the temp begun coming down and the heat exchanger was
> warm already....  He said that sometimes with a few cycles like this all
> stubborn  bubbles should come out!
>
> Hope this helps.
>
> Regards, Max
>
> 2011/6/6 <david at dlrfilms.com>
>
>> This morning I googled [two way pressure cap] and saw that that's what I
>> have, which brought me back to square one, so thanks very much for the
>> below!
>>
>> I haven't given our engine much thought because we rarely use it, and
>> usually only for a few minutes at a time. But now that I'm taking people
>> out for money, "hang on folks, I'll have this fixed in a few minutes"
>> isn't going to cut it.
>>
>> Saturday's trip was booked solid, but the wind was SE 15-25. We gave it
>> a
>> try, but it was cold and wet. Back to the dock and refunds all around.
>>
>> Yesterday was just two people. Light winds and warm until the sun got
>> low.
>> My daughter brought up some blankets to our passengers who were snuggled
>> up together on the bow. One of them was from Colorado and had never even
>> seen birds diving on bait.
>>
>> http://on.fb.me/k2a6jR
>>
>> > David,
>> > Unfortunately, I don't think you have gotten rid of your bubble.   The
>> > flow you observe with the cap off is kind of working as your pump is
>> > circulating water, but it is more of an agitation rather than real
>> flow.
>> > Both Tom and Larry give you perhaps the two answers that routinely
>> > work.  Look to the forward, port side, bottom of your engine for the
>> > drain fitting.  You should notice if you trace it back that this
>> > location leads back to the heat exchanger and your hot water heater
>> > (that is where this bubble resides).  When you fill from the bottom,
>> you
>> > fill the system in the opposite direction of the water pump flow and
>> > this forces the bubble out and up.  Remember your thermostat has only
>> a
>> > small "flow hole" and it can take time  (I usually take the thermostat
>> > out while doing this).
>> > I can't tell you how much time and angst I went through to learn this!
>> > The damn bubble can move around so that sometimes it is distributed
>> > enough to allow some flow, which makes you think some magic has
>> happened
>> > and your temp looks great.  And the next time it is concentrated and
>> > allows no flow!  And I can tell you without qualification that the
>> > bubble is a very close cousin to that guy Murphy which means things go
>> > wrong at the worst time!
>> >
>> > Any time you are working on the cooling side of your engine (pump
>> > impeller, heat exchanger, coolant change, etc.), you should refill
>> > through the lower fitting.  Adding antifreeze like Tom describes along
>> > with the expansion modification is also a must as running just water
>> in
>> > our engines should only be done in emergencies.
>> > One alternative I now use is I bought one of those inexpensive pumps
>> > that fit on the end of a drill.  This allows me to pump my antifreeze
>> in
>> > through the bottom of the engine and I no longer have to drain down
>> the
>> > system to add it.
>> >
>> > I hope this doesn't come across as complicated because it really is
>> > not.  The trick is installing a hose fitting to your drain valve.
>> >
>> > What I think is most frustrating is that the Westerbeke/Universal
>> folks
>> > must know all about this problem, but do not comment on it!  Old time
>> > marine engine mechanics know all about it, but most of the ones we run
>> > into at shipyards are young...
>> >
>> > Regards,
>> > Chuck Finn
>> > Mighty Quinn #114
>> > Still not in the water because of flooding
>> > Great Lakes
>> >
>> > On 6/5/2011 3:46 PM, david at dlrfilms.com wrote:
>> >> This might be the solution right here!
>> >>
>> >> I have a coolant recovery tank, but I don't see how the pressure cap
>> >> would
>> >> allow coolant to flow to it unless it was subject to high pressure;
>> the
>> >> seal is spring loaded and takes quite a bit of force to move.
>> >>
>> >> Furthermore, ran the engine with the coolant level down/cap off and
>> it
>> >> ran
>> >> just fine for 30 minute. I could see the coolant circulating
>> vigorously.
>> >>
>> >> But when I put the cap on I the temp rose and we were back to square
>> >> one.
>> >> As this was happening I was wondering whether or not caps were
>> univeral.
>> >>
>> >> Will take mine to an autopart store and compare to a two-way.
>> >>
>> >> I love sailing. I hate motors.
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>> Correction:
>> >>>
>> >>> I failed to mention replacing the pressure cap if anyone does
>> install
>> >>> the
>> >>> coolant recovery tank as I described in my last post.  You will have
>> to
>> >>> replace the original pressure cap with a modern 2-way cap made for
>> >>> recovery tanks.  Our original caps were one way only and will not
>> allow
>> >>> the expansion tanks to operate.  Any automotive parts store should
>> be
>> >>> able
>> >>> to match up your old cap with a new 2-way cap.
>> >>>
>> >>> Tom Troncalli
>> >>>
>> >>>
>> >>> ----- Original Message -----
>> >>> From: Richard West
>> >>> To: Larrypi at roadrunner.com;Catalina 38 Listserve
>> >>> Sent: 6/5/2011 11:47:18 AM
>> >>> Subject: Re: [C38] Overheat False Alarm
>> >>>
>> >>>
>> >>> Mine used to get air in the hoses to of from the water heater.  For
>> >>> some
>> >>> reason I don't really understand, this stopped the coolant from
>> >>> circulating in the engine.  It happened any time I had to disconnect
>> >>> those
>> >>> heater hoses for any reason.  The only solution I found was
>> detaching
>> >>> one
>> >>> of the heater hoses and use a turkey baster to force coolant through
>> >>> the
>> >>> heater circuit.
>> >>>
>> >>>
>> >>> RIch, Legacy, #360
>> >>>
>> >>>
>> >>>
>> >>>
>> >>>
>> >>> On Sun, Jun 5, 2011 at 7:45 AM, Larry
>> Malmberg<Larrypi at roadrunner.com>
>> >>> wrote:
>> >>>
>> >>> I believe there is a small plug near the water pump that you can
>> >>> remove,
>> >>> add
>> >>> coolant until it comes out, replace the plug, run the engine for a
>> >>> couple
>> >>> of
>> >>> moments, remove the plug again and air will come out, keep doing
>> until
>> >>> you
>> >>> have no more air.  This is just from memory.
>> >>>
>> >>>
>> >>>
>> >>>
>> >>>
>> >>>
>> >>> Best regards,
>> >>>
>> >>> Larry Malmberg
>> >>>
>> >>> 7231 Boulder Avenue Suite 507
>> >>> Highland, CA 92346 PI 15211
>> >>> Telephone  909-208-1847
>> >>> FAX           909-991-7568
>> >>>
>> >>> E Mail  Larrypi at roadrunner.com
>> >>>
>> >>>
>> >>>
>> >>>
>> >>> Life is short, Break the rules, Forgive quickly, Kiss slowly, Love
>> >>> truly,
>> >>> Laugh uncontrollably, And never regret anything that made you
>> smile..
>> >>>
>> >>> "The American Indians found out what happens when  you don't control
>> >>> immigration"
>> >>>
>> >>>
>> >>> "Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving
>> >>> safely
>> >>> in
>> >>> a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside,
>> >>> thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming; WOW--
>> >>> What a
>> >>> Ride!"
>> >>>
>> >>> CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This electronic message, including any
>> >>> attachments,
>> >>> is for the sole use of the intended recipient(s) and may contain
>> >>> confidential and privileged information. Any unauthorized review,
>> >>> copying,
>> >>> use, disclosure or distribution of any parts of the contents of this
>> >>> message/information is prohibited by federal law. Attempts to
>> intercept
>> >>> this
>> >>> message are in violation of Title 18 USC 2511(1) of the Electronic
>> >>> Communications Privacy Act (ECPA), which subjects the interceptor to
>> >>> fines,
>> >>> imprisonment and/or civil damages. If you are not the intended
>> >>> recipient,
>> >>> please contact the sender by reply e-mail and destroy all copies of
>> the
>> >>> original message.
>> >>>
>> >>>
>> >>> -----Original Message-----
>> >>> From: listserve-bounces at catalina38.org
>> >>> [mailto:listserve-bounces at catalina38.org] On Behalf Of
>> >>> david at dlrfilms.com
>> >>> Sent: Sunday, June 05, 2011 7:17 AM
>> >>> To: listserve at catalina38.org
>> >>> Subject: [C38] Overheat False Alarm
>> >>>
>> >>>
>> >>> My engine is back to doing that thing where the temp gauge climbs,
>> the
>> >>> alarm
>> >>> goes off, but the engine itself is not even too hot to touch, and I
>> can
>> >>> stick my finger in the coolant without getting scalded.
>> >>>
>> >>> This problem plagued our 2008 and 2009 Summer sailing, but wasn't
>> too
>> >>> big
>> >>> a
>> >>> concern because we never ran the engine for more than about 5-10
>> >>> minutes.
>> >>>
>> >>> Thought I had it licked before our passage to the Caribbean in Nov
>> >>> 2009,
>> >>> and
>> >>> indeed, ran the motor for hours on end with no such problem.
>> >>>
>> >>> But now it's back, and with the wind out of the SE, that means
>> getting
>> >>> back
>> >>> into the harbor is a long enough run to get the overheat false
>> alarm.
>> >>>
>> >>> IIRC, cracking the thermostat housing open would (usually) solve the
>> >>> problem.
>> >>>
>> >>> The other thing I notice is that coolent is not following through
>> the
>> >>> overflow tube to the reserve tank. It's not blocked; it seems like
>> >>> there's
>> >>> a
>> >>> air bubble that's keeping the coolant from flowing.
>> >>>
>> >>> I remember something about running the engine, and then adding more
>> >>> coolant
>> >>> after it burps or some such. I have my manual and will re-read.
>> >>>
>> >>> Meanwhile, any helpful hints are much appreciated.
>> >>>
>> >>>
>> >>> _______________________________________________
>> >>> Listserve mailing list
>> >>> Listserve at catalina38.org
>> >>> http://catalina38.org/mailman/listinfo/listserve_catalina38.org
>> >>>
>> >>>
>> >>> _______________________________________________
>> >>> Listserve mailing list
>> >>> Listserve at catalina38.org
>> >>>
>> http://catalina38.org/mailman/listinfo/listserve_catalina38.org_______________________________________________
>> >>> Listserve mailing list
>> >>> Listserve at catalina38.org
>> >>> http://catalina38.org/mailman/listinfo/listserve_catalina38.org
>> >>>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >> _______________________________________________
>> >> Listserve mailing list
>> >> Listserve at catalina38.org
>> >> http://catalina38.org/mailman/listinfo/listserve_catalina38.org
>> >
>> >
>> > _______________________________________________
>> > Listserve mailing list
>> > Listserve at catalina38.org
>> > http://catalina38.org/mailman/listinfo/listserve_catalina38.org
>> >
>>
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Listserve mailing list
>> Listserve at catalina38.org
>> http://catalina38.org/mailman/listinfo/listserve_catalina38.org
>>
>
>
>
> --
> Max Soto
> C38 #198 ESTANCIA
> Puntarenas, Costa Rica
> _______________________________________________
> Listserve mailing list
> Listserve at catalina38.org
> http://catalina38.org/mailman/listinfo/listserve_catalina38.org
>

More information about the Listserve mailing list