[C38] Our C38 doesn't have an overtemp alarm - or it doesn't work

Tue Jun 7 13:10:28 EDT 2011

I installed my alarm sensor on the top of the thermostat housing on a 5424
engine, right were the plug goes, but this is not a good location, since
theres usually some air in there, unless the system has been perfectly
burp...

Regards, Max

2011/6/7 Chuck Finn <charles at finn.ws>

> Marci,
> The alarm was not installed on older boats or at least mine does not have
> one.  The alarm works off a separate engine heat sensor and works quite
> differently from a normal temp gauge.  You need two sensors installed on
> your engine as for some reason, one cannot do both functions.  Does not make
> sense to me in a modern digital world, but that seems to be the way it is.
> I have two questions for the group:
> 1. If you have the alarm, where is the sensor located?
> 2. Has anyone seen a dual temp/alarm gauge?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Chuck Finn
> Mighty Quinn #114
> Great Lakes
>
>
> On 6/7/2011 10:41 AM, Marci Brown wrote:
>
>> We had an overheat situation 2 years ago. I'm happy to say that the engine
>> was not damaged - but we did not hear any alarm go off when the coolant
>> boiled over. I haven't read all of your "overheat" messages. What do you
>> know about malfunctioning warning alarms?
>>
>> Marci J. Brown
>> Check's In The Mail
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Chuck Finn [mailto:charles at finn.ws]
>> Sent: Monday, June 06, 2011 8:26 AM
>> To: Catalina 38 Listserve
>> Subject: Re: [C38] Overheat False Alarm
>>
>> David,
>> Unfortunately, I don't think you have gotten rid of your bubble.   The
>> flow you observe with the cap off is kind of working as your pump is
>> circulating water, but it is more of an agitation rather than real flow.
>> Both Tom and Larry give you perhaps the two answers that routinely work.
>> Look to the forward, port side, bottom of your engine for the drain
>> fitting.
>> You should notice if you trace it back that this location leads back to
>> the
>> heat exchanger and your hot water heater (that is where this bubble
>> resides).  When you fill from the bottom, you fill the system in the
>> opposite direction of the water pump flow and this forces the bubble out
>> and
>> up.  Remember your thermostat has only a small "flow hole" and it can take
>> time  (I usually take the thermostat out while doing this).
>> I can't tell you how much time and angst I went through to learn this!
>> The damn bubble can move around so that sometimes it is distributed enough
>> to allow some flow, which makes you think some magic has happened and your
>> temp looks great.  And the next time it is concentrated and allows no
>> flow!
>> And I can tell you without qualification that the bubble is a very close
>> cousin to that guy Murphy which means things go wrong at the worst time!
>>
>> Any time you are working on the cooling side of your engine (pump
>> impeller,
>> heat exchanger, coolant change, etc.), you should refill through the lower
>> fitting.  Adding antifreeze like Tom describes along with the expansion
>> modification is also a must as running just water in our engines should
>> only
>> be done in emergencies.
>> One alternative I now use is I bought one of those inexpensive pumps that
>> fit on the end of a drill.  This allows me to pump my antifreeze in
>> through
>> the bottom of the engine and I no longer have to drain down the system to
>> add it.
>>
>> I hope this doesn't come across as complicated because it really is not.
>> The trick is installing a hose fitting to your drain valve.
>>
>> What I think is most frustrating is that the Westerbeke/Universal folks
>> must
>> know all about this problem, but do not comment on it!  Old time marine
>> engine mechanics know all about it, but most of the ones we run into at
>> shipyards are young...
>>
>> Regards,
>> Chuck Finn
>> Mighty Quinn #114
>> Still not in the water because of flooding Great Lakes
>>
>> On 6/5/2011 3:46 PM, david at dlrfilms.com wrote:
>>
>>> This might be the solution right here!
>>>
>>> I have a coolant recovery tank, but I don't see how the pressure cap
>>> would allow coolant to flow to it unless it was subject to high
>>> pressure; the seal is spring loaded and takes quite a bit of force to
>>>
>> move.
>>
>>> Furthermore, ran the engine with the coolant level down/cap off and it
>>> ran just fine for 30 minute. I could see the coolant circulating
>>>
>> vigorously.
>>
>>> But when I put the cap on I the temp rose and we were back to square one.
>>> As this was happening I was wondering whether or not caps were univeral.
>>>
>>> Will take mine to an autopart store and compare to a two-way.
>>>
>>> I love sailing. I hate motors.
>>>
>>>
>>>  Correction:
>>>>
>>>> I failed to mention replacing the pressure cap if anyone does install
>>>> the coolant recovery tank as I described in my last post.  You will
>>>> have to replace the original pressure cap with a modern 2-way cap
>>>> made for recovery tanks.  Our original caps were one way only and
>>>> will not allow the expansion tanks to operate.  Any automotive parts
>>>> store should be able to match up your old cap with a new 2-way cap.
>>>>
>>>> Tom Troncalli
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> ----- Original Message -----
>>>> From: Richard West
>>>> To: Larrypi at roadrunner.com;Catalina 38 Listserve
>>>> Sent: 6/5/2011 11:47:18 AM
>>>> Subject: Re: [C38] Overheat False Alarm
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Mine used to get air in the hoses to of from the water heater.  For
>>>> some reason I don't really understand, this stopped the coolant from
>>>> circulating in the engine.  It happened any time I had to disconnect
>>>> those heater hoses for any reason.  The only solution I found was
>>>> detaching one of the heater hoses and use a turkey baster to force
>>>> coolant through the heater circuit.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> RIch, Legacy, #360
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On Sun, Jun 5, 2011 at 7:45 AM, Larry
>>>> Malmberg<Larrypi at roadrunner.com>
>>>> wrote:
>>>>
>>>> I believe there is a small plug near the water pump that you can
>>>> remove, add coolant until it comes out, replace the plug, run the
>>>> engine for a couple of moments, remove the plug again and air will
>>>> come out, keep doing until you have no more air.  This is just from
>>>> memory.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Best regards,
>>>>
>>>> Larry Malmberg
>>>>
>>>> 7231 Boulder Avenue Suite 507
>>>> Highland, CA 92346 PI 15211
>>>> Telephone  909-208-1847
>>>> FAX           909-991-7568
>>>>
>>>> E Mail  Larrypi at roadrunner.com
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Life is short, Break the rules, Forgive quickly, Kiss slowly, Love
>>>> truly, Laugh uncontrollably, And never regret anything that made you
>>>>
>>> smile..
>>
>>> "The American Indians found out what happens when  you don't control
>>>> immigration"
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> "Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving
>>>> safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in
>>>> broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly
>>>> proclaiming; WOW-- What a Ride!"
>>>>
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>>>> -----Original Message-----
>>>> From: listserve-bounces at catalina38.org
>>>> [mailto:listserve-bounces at catalina38.org] On Behalf Of
>>>> david at dlrfilms.com
>>>> Sent: Sunday, June 05, 2011 7:17 AM
>>>> To: listserve at catalina38.org
>>>> Subject: [C38] Overheat False Alarm
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> My engine is back to doing that thing where the temp gauge climbs,
>>>> the alarm goes off, but the engine itself is not even too hot to
>>>> touch, and I can stick my finger in the coolant without getting
>>>> scalded.
>>>>
>>>> This problem plagued our 2008 and 2009 Summer sailing, but wasn't too
>>>> big a concern because we never ran the engine for more than about
>>>> 5-10 minutes.
>>>>
>>>> Thought I had it licked before our passage to the Caribbean in Nov
>>>> 2009, and indeed, ran the motor for hours on end with no such
>>>> problem.
>>>>
>>>> But now it's back, and with the wind out of the SE, that means
>>>> getting back into the harbor is a long enough run to get the overheat
>>>> false alarm.
>>>>
>>>> IIRC, cracking the thermostat housing open would (usually) solve the
>>>> problem.
>>>>
>>>> The other thing I notice is that coolent is not following through the
>>>> overflow tube to the reserve tank. It's not blocked; it seems like
>>>> there's a air bubble that's keeping the coolant from flowing.
>>>>
>>>> I remember something about running the engine, and then adding more
>>>> coolant after it burps or some such. I have my manual and will
>>>> re-read.
>>>>
>>>> Meanwhile, any helpful hints are much appreciated.
>>>>
>>>>
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-- 
Max Soto
C38 #198 ESTANCIA
Puntarenas, Costa Rica
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