[C38] Our C38 doesn't have an overtemp alarm - or it doesn't work

Tue Jun 7 11:25:33 EDT 2011

Marci,
The alarm was not installed on older boats or at least mine does not 
have one.  The alarm works off a separate engine heat sensor and works 
quite differently from a normal temp gauge.  You need two sensors 
installed on your engine as for some reason, one cannot do both 
functions.  Does not make sense to me in a modern digital world, but 
that seems to be the way it is.
I have two questions for the group:
1. If you have the alarm, where is the sensor located?
2. Has anyone seen a dual temp/alarm gauge?

Thanks,
Chuck Finn
Mighty Quinn #114
Great Lakes

On 6/7/2011 10:41 AM, Marci Brown wrote:
> We had an overheat situation 2 years ago. I'm happy to say that the engine
> was not damaged - but we did not hear any alarm go off when the coolant
> boiled over. I haven't read all of your "overheat" messages. What do you
> know about malfunctioning warning alarms?
>
> Marci J. Brown
> Check's In The Mail
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Chuck Finn [mailto:charles at finn.ws]
> Sent: Monday, June 06, 2011 8:26 AM
> To: Catalina 38 Listserve
> Subject: Re: [C38] Overheat False Alarm
>
> David,
> Unfortunately, I don't think you have gotten rid of your bubble.   The
> flow you observe with the cap off is kind of working as your pump is
> circulating water, but it is more of an agitation rather than real flow.
> Both Tom and Larry give you perhaps the two answers that routinely work.
> Look to the forward, port side, bottom of your engine for the drain fitting.
> You should notice if you trace it back that this location leads back to the
> heat exchanger and your hot water heater (that is where this bubble
> resides).  When you fill from the bottom, you fill the system in the
> opposite direction of the water pump flow and this forces the bubble out and
> up.  Remember your thermostat has only a small "flow hole" and it can take
> time  (I usually take the thermostat out while doing this).
> I can't tell you how much time and angst I went through to learn this!
> The damn bubble can move around so that sometimes it is distributed enough
> to allow some flow, which makes you think some magic has happened and your
> temp looks great.  And the next time it is concentrated and allows no flow!
> And I can tell you without qualification that the bubble is a very close
> cousin to that guy Murphy which means things go wrong at the worst time!
>
> Any time you are working on the cooling side of your engine (pump impeller,
> heat exchanger, coolant change, etc.), you should refill through the lower
> fitting.  Adding antifreeze like Tom describes along with the expansion
> modification is also a must as running just water in our engines should only
> be done in emergencies.
> One alternative I now use is I bought one of those inexpensive pumps that
> fit on the end of a drill.  This allows me to pump my antifreeze in through
> the bottom of the engine and I no longer have to drain down the system to
> add it.
>
> I hope this doesn't come across as complicated because it really is not.
> The trick is installing a hose fitting to your drain valve.
>
> What I think is most frustrating is that the Westerbeke/Universal folks must
> know all about this problem, but do not comment on it!  Old time marine
> engine mechanics know all about it, but most of the ones we run into at
> shipyards are young...
>
> Regards,
> Chuck Finn
> Mighty Quinn #114
> Still not in the water because of flooding Great Lakes
>
> On 6/5/2011 3:46 PM, david at dlrfilms.com wrote:
>> This might be the solution right here!
>>
>> I have a coolant recovery tank, but I don't see how the pressure cap
>> would allow coolant to flow to it unless it was subject to high
>> pressure; the seal is spring loaded and takes quite a bit of force to
> move.
>> Furthermore, ran the engine with the coolant level down/cap off and it
>> ran just fine for 30 minute. I could see the coolant circulating
> vigorously.
>> But when I put the cap on I the temp rose and we were back to square one.
>> As this was happening I was wondering whether or not caps were univeral.
>>
>> Will take mine to an autopart store and compare to a two-way.
>>
>> I love sailing. I hate motors.
>>
>>
>>> Correction:
>>>
>>> I failed to mention replacing the pressure cap if anyone does install
>>> the coolant recovery tank as I described in my last post.  You will
>>> have to replace the original pressure cap with a modern 2-way cap
>>> made for recovery tanks.  Our original caps were one way only and
>>> will not allow the expansion tanks to operate.  Any automotive parts
>>> store should be able to match up your old cap with a new 2-way cap.
>>>
>>> Tom Troncalli
>>>
>>>
>>> ----- Original Message -----
>>> From: Richard West
>>> To: Larrypi at roadrunner.com;Catalina 38 Listserve
>>> Sent: 6/5/2011 11:47:18 AM
>>> Subject: Re: [C38] Overheat False Alarm
>>>
>>>
>>> Mine used to get air in the hoses to of from the water heater.  For
>>> some reason I don't really understand, this stopped the coolant from
>>> circulating in the engine.  It happened any time I had to disconnect
>>> those heater hoses for any reason.  The only solution I found was
>>> detaching one of the heater hoses and use a turkey baster to force
>>> coolant through the heater circuit.
>>>
>>>
>>> RIch, Legacy, #360
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Sun, Jun 5, 2011 at 7:45 AM, Larry
>>> Malmberg<Larrypi at roadrunner.com>
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>> I believe there is a small plug near the water pump that you can
>>> remove, add coolant until it comes out, replace the plug, run the
>>> engine for a couple of moments, remove the plug again and air will
>>> come out, keep doing until you have no more air.  This is just from
>>> memory.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Best regards,
>>>
>>> Larry Malmberg
>>>
>>> 7231 Boulder Avenue Suite 507
>>> Highland, CA 92346 PI 15211
>>> Telephone  909-208-1847
>>> FAX           909-991-7568
>>>
>>> E Mail  Larrypi at roadrunner.com
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Life is short, Break the rules, Forgive quickly, Kiss slowly, Love
>>> truly, Laugh uncontrollably, And never regret anything that made you
> smile..
>>> "The American Indians found out what happens when  you don't control
>>> immigration"
>>>
>>>
>>> "Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving
>>> safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in
>>> broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly
>>> proclaiming; WOW-- What a Ride!"
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>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: listserve-bounces at catalina38.org
>>> [mailto:listserve-bounces at catalina38.org] On Behalf Of
>>> david at dlrfilms.com
>>> Sent: Sunday, June 05, 2011 7:17 AM
>>> To: listserve at catalina38.org
>>> Subject: [C38] Overheat False Alarm
>>>
>>>
>>> My engine is back to doing that thing where the temp gauge climbs,
>>> the alarm goes off, but the engine itself is not even too hot to
>>> touch, and I can stick my finger in the coolant without getting
>>> scalded.
>>>
>>> This problem plagued our 2008 and 2009 Summer sailing, but wasn't too
>>> big a concern because we never ran the engine for more than about
>>> 5-10 minutes.
>>>
>>> Thought I had it licked before our passage to the Caribbean in Nov
>>> 2009, and indeed, ran the motor for hours on end with no such
>>> problem.
>>>
>>> But now it's back, and with the wind out of the SE, that means
>>> getting back into the harbor is a long enough run to get the overheat
>>> false alarm.
>>>
>>> IIRC, cracking the thermostat housing open would (usually) solve the
>>> problem.
>>>
>>> The other thing I notice is that coolent is not following through the
>>> overflow tube to the reserve tank. It's not blocked; it seems like
>>> there's a air bubble that's keeping the coolant from flowing.
>>>
>>> I remember something about running the engine, and then adding more
>>> coolant after it burps or some such. I have my manual and will
>>> re-read.
>>>
>>> Meanwhile, any helpful hints are much appreciated.
>>>
>>>
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