[C38] Starter Removal!?!

tdtron at earthlink.net tdtron at earthlink.net
Thu Jul 7 09:03:04 EDT 2011


Hello David,

The starter removal is difficult but just take your time.  Disconnect the
batteries first of course.  

It was a long time ago when I removed my starter and solenoid but I do
remember using long 3/8" extensions and both swivel joints and swivel
sockets so I could apply torque from out in the cabin which made it much
easier (and possible?)

Regardless of whether it's the starter or solenoid causing starting
problems, I would replace the solenoid in any case.  I don't remember the
part number but Advance Auto Parts had the EXACT solenoid for a fraction of
the Universal price.  I think it may have fit a Toyota but I'm not sure. 
Maybe someone else has the part number because it has been discussed here
in the past.

If you remove the alternator for access to the starter, notice the small
tachometer wire on the back of the alternator and where it connects.  That
is a wire only diesels have so you may not be looking for it or paying
attention to it.

Also, if your boat still has the amp meter running your boat current
through the engine control panel, you need to upgrade your wiring to a volt
meter in the cockpit and let the alternator output go directly to your
batteries.  This upgrade is highly recommended by Catalina and is very easy
to do.  You run a new wire going to engine control panel from the solenoid
battery terminal.  It is better to run a new wire than use the old wire
because the old wire goes through a harness connection which are prone to
failure after years of  marine use.  You only need one new wire going to
the control panel for the conversion because you can just ground the new
volt meter to a common ground of the control panel.  The new volt meter
pulls very low current so a small marine grade 18ga wire would probably
work fine.   Tape the ends of the old harness wires and tag them.  The new
volt meter goes where the old amp meter used to be on the engine control
panel.  Use a marine unit because automotive units are not corrosion proof
and will fail.  I used an automotive unit once and it lasted about 5
months.  I then bought a marine unit and so far it has lasted over 10
years.  If you feel you still need an amp meter, convert to a modern shunt
type which draws very little current from a sensing unit mounted near the
alternator output. Either a volt meter conversion or a shunt fed amp meter
is a vast improvement over the dangerous factory system.

Sorry for making this reply so long but you are possibly at a crossroads to
do a highly recommended upgrade on your wiring and charging system and if
you do it all now, it will save you time and even the possibility of a fire
in the future.

Not only will the wiring and volt meter upgrade make your boat safer, you
will also find that your alternator output will charge your batteries much
faster because of the more efficient and shorter, lower loss, path of the
alternator current.  The charging circuit upgrade is a must on a Catalina
38 and any other boat using the original Universal panel voltmeter wiring. 
Nobody uses this old system any longer and for good reason.

Good luck and please don't hesitate to ask questions we may be able to
answer.  If you have already done the volt meter and/or shunt amp meter and
wiring upgrade, please forgive me for this long sermon.

Tom Troncalli
Recovering ex-38 owner





> [Original Message]
> From: <david at dlrfilms.com>
> To: <listserve at catalina38.org>
> Date: 7/6/2011 10:13:32 PM
> Subject: [C38] Starter Removal!?!
>
> So tomorrow morning I'm down to the boat, wrenches and sockets in hand, PB
> Blaster and a MAP gas torch.
>
> Wish me luck!
>
>
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