[C38] Head Gasket

Mon Sep 19 15:58:58 EDT 2011

Thanks for the ideas Tom!

The complete top end gasket set was only $109 from Yacht Supply Depot.
It's part 07916-24345 for the 1985 Kubota block and manifold that make
up our Universal M-30.  Just the head gasket would have run about $45.
If your idea works then I'll keep the kit as a spare when we cruise
Mexico.

Do you happen to know how warm the engine has to be for the Bar's to set
up?  Our engine seems to run very cool (140 degrees) even at max speed
and I have been wondering how to safely increase the operating temp to
the 160-190 as specified.  I was hoping this would minimized carbon
build up in our exhaust system.  I've heard an automotive thermostat may
work but would like to discuss with someone with more experience.  Maybe
I just need to partially close the raw water inlet valve! 

So I'll figure out a way to re-torque the bolts in place and try the
Bar's.  And I completely agree with you on the resurface and valve
grind.  My Dad was a German car mechanic and always did it to our cars
when pulling a head for any reason.  Believed it was "false economy" not
to.

Thanks!..............Jay  

________________________________

From: listserve-bounces at catalina38.org
[mailto:listserve-bounces at catalina38.org] On Behalf Of
tdtron at earthlink.net
Sent: Monday, September 19, 2011 11:14 AM
To: Catalina 38 Listserve
Subject: Re: [C38] Head Gasket

Hello Jay,

Before you tear down that engine, I would try some Bar's Leak first.
Bars doesn't use aluminum which makes it a bad choice for the more
modern type leak products but it is wonderful for our engines because
almost none of our leaks are with aluminum components.

The Bars will not work until you have had the engine up to running
temperature for at least 10 minutes.  You have indicated you have
already ordered the top end gasket set.  Expensive?  Wow!  I think the
head gasket alone is something like $150 if I remember correctly.

I worked in an automotive shop most of my adult life and I've seen
miracles from Bar's and other stop leak products. They only work if you
catch the leak while it is still small.  Adding water and putting off
adding the stop leak will only allow the situation to get worse.

If the head gasket blew, it is usually from distortion of the head and
stretching of the head bolts while in an overheated condition.  With
cast iron heads, they usually don't stay warped like aluminum heads will
but I would still re-torque the head just to be safe.  Do this before
you use the stop leak product.

Anyway, that's my opinion.  If the stop leak product works, they are
actually permanent repairs to the gasket.

I don't know if they still do, but the former "Big Three," GM, Ford and
Chrysler, used to put a bottle of Bar's in every new vehicle they built
as insurance against any small leaks. They figured it was cheaper to put
in a bottle of stop leak and potentially reduce their chances of major
problems with any gasket failures.

If you do decide to pull the head, I would recommend a resurfacing and
valve grind while the head is out. These two operations are fairly cheap
and would bring the head back to factory new condition.  Any machine
shop can test the head to tell you if it needs resurfacing. if you can
trust them.  Any obvious warpage can be checked by a straight edge ruler
tested in several angles across the machined surface of the head.
Unless you had a nuclear meltdown, I would bet the head is OK.  To test
to see if you need a valve grind, pour some mineral spirits in each
cylinder with the head laying up side down. If the mineral spirits leaks
out, you need a grind.  If it takes an hour or more to leak down, your
head is OK.  

Tom Troncalli

	----- Original Message ----- 

	From: Jay Sorensen <mailto:jsorensen at novarx.com>  

	To: listserve at catalina38.org

	Sent: 9/19/2011 12:07:11 PM 

	Subject: [C38] Head Gasket

	Good Morning All,

	Looking for some advice here. Our beloved 5424 overheated last
weekend (failed belt, during an anniversary trip!) and now there is the
smallest of coolant leaks from the head gasket near the F/W pump
housing.  Oil seems unaffected but I'm not sure about coolant entering
the cylinders.  Any leak must be very small as after the trip the
coolant level was imperceptibly lower.  I presume that at least the head
gasket needs replacement and a probable machining of the head, correct??
Or does anyone on the list have any good experience with a gasket leak
sealer?  I've never tried them and I don't think I trust them unless I
hear glowing reviews.  

	So I currently plan to move the engine into the galley to remove
the head and have it checked.  Doesn't seem reasonable to try to remove
it in place, correct??  Any recommendations on how to easily move 350
lbs of engine out of the engine bay??  I've seen videos of hoisting it
out once it's on the galley floor, but not the initial removal phase.
I'm sure someone out there has done it a few times!  I've ordered a
complete top end gasket kit and hope to start this week.  

	So far this has been a tough little motor that has always done
its best by us.  We just want it to be perfect again.

	Thanks for any suggestions, including why the high temp audio
alarm did not work!

	Jay Sorensen

	C-38 Broad Reach, #311

	San Diego, CA 

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