[C38] Head Gasket

[tdtron at earthlink.net]

Hello Jay,

Before you tear down that engine, I would try some Bar's Leak first.  Bars doesn't use aluminum which makes it a bad choice for the more modern type leak products but it is wonderful for our engines because almost none of our leaks are with aluminum components.

The Bars will not work until you have had the engine up to running temperature for at least 10 minutes.  You have indicated you have already ordered the top end gasket set.  Expensive?  Wow!  I think the head gasket alone is something like $150 if I remember correctly.

I worked in an automotive shop most of my adult life and I've seen miracles from Bar's and other stop leak products. They only work if you catch the leak while it is still small.  Adding water and putting off adding the stop leak will only allow the situation to get worse.

If the head gasket blew, it is usually from distortion of the head and stretching of the head bolts while in an overheated condition.  With cast iron heads, they usually don't stay warped like aluminum heads will but I would still re-torque the head just to be safe.  Do this before you use the stop leak product.

Anyway, that's my opinion.  If the stop leak product works, they are actually permanent repairs to the gasket.

I don't know if they still do, but the former "Big Three," GM, Ford and Chrysler, used to put a bottle of Bar's in every new vehicle they built as insurance against any small leaks. They figured it was cheaper to put in a bottle of stop leak and potentially reduce their chances of major problems with any gasket failures.

If you do decide to pull the head, I would recommend a resurfacing and valve grind while the head is out. These two operations are fairly cheap and would bring the head back to factory new condition.  Any machine shop can test the head to tell you if it needs resurfacing. if you can trust them.  Any obvious warpage can be checked by a straight edge ruler tested in several angles across the machined surface of the head.  Unless you had a nuclear meltdown, I would bet the head is OK.  To test to see if you need a valve grind, pour some mineral spirits in each cylinder with the head laying up side down. If the mineral spirits leaks out, you need a grind.  If it takes an hour or more to leak down, your head is OK.  

Tom Troncalli

----- Original Message ----- 
From: Jay Sorensen 
To: listserve at catalina38.org
Sent: 9/19/2011 12:07:11 PM 
Subject: [C38] Head Gasket


Good Morning All,
 
Looking for some advice here. Our beloved 5424 overheated last weekend (failed belt, during an anniversary trip!) and now there is the smallest of coolant leaks from the head gasket near the F/W pump housing.  Oil seems unaffected but I’m not sure about coolant entering the cylinders.  Any leak must be very small as after the trip the coolant level was imperceptibly lower.  I presume that at least the head gasket needs replacement and a probable machining of the head, correct??  Or does anyone on the list have any good experience with a gasket leak sealer?  I’ve never tried them and I don’t think I trust them unless I hear glowing reviews.  
 
So I currently plan to move the engine into the galley to remove the head and have it checked.  Doesn’t seem reasonable to try to remove it in place, correct??  Any recommendations on how to easily move 350 lbs of engine out of the engine bay??  I’ve seen videos of hoisting it out once it’s on the galley floor, but not the initial removal phase.   I’m sure someone out there has done it a few times!  I’ve ordered a complete top end gasket kit and hope to start this week.  
 
So far this has been a tough little motor that has always done its best by us.  We just want it to be perfect again.
 
Thanks for any suggestions, including why the high temp audio alarm did not work!
 
Jay Sorensen
C-38 Broad Reach, #311
San Diego, CA 
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