[C38] boom brake?

[Pierre Patino]

Hello all

Sailing in San Francisco Bay can be daunting for beginners. I sometimes let
them have the wheel to allay their fears which in some instances has
resulted in accidental jibes when my attention was elsewhere. I've had to
re-rivet some hardware on the boom and I think the gooseneck crack which I
had to get welded may have been the result of one of those instances.

Trying to be cheap, I went to a climbing store (REI) and got a belaying
device and some rope and tried to rig something up. The results were
unsatisfactory so I went back to rigging preventers as needed.

The Wichard Gybe-easy seems like a good compromise between inattention and
focus. Does anyone else have experience with this device?


Cheers






On Sun, May 20, 2012 at 9:44 AM, Don Strong <drstrong at ucdavis.edu> wrote:

>  Pierre: I wonder if, given concern for bucks, you would use that pricey
> boom brake much on a C38? If you plan to do a lot of tacking down wind, ok,
> but then you have to get back up wind either before or after. You can get a
> similar device at a climbing store for less money or use a line from the
> boom to the rail as a preventer  (use a trucker's knot for friction). I
> often center up the main before jibing.  Others on this site know much more
> than moi, and they will have more sophisticated advice.
> Regards, Don
> On 5/20/12 9:32 AM, Pierre Patino wrote:
>
>
> Hello All again
>
> Thanks for all the inputs. I'm confident I can pull it off now. I don't
> have the budget for the more expensive line but since I have a furling jib,
> once it's up, it's up and I'm willing to tweak once in a while.
>
> Doing the math, the I and J dimensions yielded a 102' halyard length. I
> definitely won't pass the line to the cockpit since there are no blocks or
> cleats (or budget) for that. My next purchase pennies are targeted for a
> Wichard Gybe-easy boom brake... Oh yeah - the woodwork is another topic in
> itself..
>
> Cheers
>
>
>
>
>
> On Sat, May 21, 2011 at 4:52 AM, RICHARD KILROY <dickkilroy at comcast.net>wrote:
>
>>  Pierre: I agree with other comments on length and Steve on the
>> electrical tape for feeding through. I would not use Sta set X but rather a
>> spectra or T 900 type line. Much less stretch. If using one of these you
>> will have to have the splice professionally done
>>
>> Dick
>>
>> *From:* Pierre Patino <pierre.patino at gmail.com>
>> *To:* Catalina 38 Listserve <listserve at catalina38.org>
>> *Sent:* Saturday, May 19, 2012 9:53 PM
>>  *Subject:* [C38] Replacing jib halyard
>>
>>
>>  Hello All
>>
>> As a test of my "seamanship" I've decided to replace my jib halyard. I've
>> never done it before and I spent some time reading all of what was posted
>> regarding halyards on this list since 2005. According to another web site,
>> the recommended length is 117'.  I want to go with no-wire Sta-Set X 7/16"
>> which at about $120 appears to be "cheap" enough. A YouTube I saw showed
>> it's all a matter of butt-splicing the ends (old to new) together with
>> waxed thread and pulling through.
>>
>> Newbie questions:
>>
>>
>> 1) Is 117' the correct/best length? (jib is mast-cleated)
>> 2) 7/16" diameter OK?
>> 3) Sheaves/pulleys OK with all-nylon rope?
>> 4) YouTube video too optimistic?
>> 5) Am I going to regret this?
>>
>>
>> Thanks for the advice.
>>
>> Cheers
>>
>>
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>
>
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>
> --
> Donald R. Strong
> Professor
> Dept. of Evolution and Ecology
> University of California, Davis 95616
>
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