[C38] boom brake?

[Max Soto]

Pierre, 
If you Fix a crack on the welded aluminum gooseneck brackets on the mast, Lefiell has a stainless bracket that goes riveted to the mast. It might be cheaper because is a easy DIY project. 
Check it out at www.Lefiell.com
Regards, Max


Sent from my iPod

On May 23, 2012, at 9:32, Pierre Patino <pierre.patino at gmail.com> wrote:

> 
> Hello all
> 
> Sailing in San Francisco Bay can be daunting for beginners. I sometimes let them have the wheel to allay their fears which in some instances has resulted in accidental jibes when my attention was elsewhere. I've had to re-rivet some hardware on the boom and I think the gooseneck crack which I had to get welded may have been the result of one of those instances.
> 
> Trying to be cheap, I went to a climbing store (REI) and got a belaying device and some rope and tried to rig something up. The results were unsatisfactory so I went back to rigging preventers as needed.
> 
> The Wichard Gybe-easy seems like a good compromise between inattention and focus. Does anyone else have experience with this device?
> 
> 
> Cheers
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On Sun, May 20, 2012 at 9:44 AM, Don Strong <drstrong at ucdavis.edu> wrote:
> Pierre: I wonder if, given concern for bucks, you would use that pricey boom brake much on a C38? If you plan to do a lot of tacking down wind, ok, but then you have to get back up wind either before or after. You can get a similar device at a climbing store for less money or use a line from the boom to the rail as a preventer  (use a trucker's knot for friction). I often center up the main before jibing.  Others on this site know much more than moi, and they will have more sophisticated advice.
> Regards, Don
> On 5/20/12 9:32 AM, Pierre Patino wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> Hello All again
>> 
>> Thanks for all the inputs. I'm confident I can pull it off now. I don't have the budget for the more expensive line but since I have a furling jib, once it's up, it's up and I'm willing to tweak once in a while.
>> 
>> Doing the math, the I and J dimensions yielded a 102' halyard length. I definitely won't pass the line to the cockpit since there are no blocks or cleats (or budget) for that. My next purchase pennies are targeted for a Wichard Gybe-easy boom brake... Oh yeah - the woodwork is another topic in itself..
>> 
>> Cheers
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> On Sat, May 21, 2011 at 4:52 AM, RICHARD KILROY <dickkilroy at comcast.net> wrote:
>> Pierre: I agree with other comments on length and Steve on the electrical tape for feeding through. I                 would not use Sta set X but rather a spectra or T 900 type line. Much less stretch. If using one of these you will have to have the splice professionally done
>>  
>> Dick
>> From: Pierre Patino
>> To: Catalina 38 Listserve
>> Sent: Saturday, May 19, 2012 9:53 PM
>> Subject: [C38] Replacing jib halyard
>> 
>> 
>> Hello All
>> 
>> As a test of my "seamanship" I've decided to replace my jib halyard. I've never done it before and I spent some time reading all of what was posted regarding halyards on this list since 2005. According to another web site, the recommended length is 117'.  I want to go with no-wire Sta-Set X 7/16" which at about $120 appears to be "cheap" enough. A YouTube I saw showed it's all a matter of butt-splicing the ends (old to new) together with waxed thread and pulling through.
>> 
>> Newbie questions:
>> 
>> 
>> 1) Is 117' the correct/best length? (jib is mast-cleated)
>> 2) 7/16" diameter OK?
>> 3) Sheaves/pulleys OK with all-nylon rope?
>> 4) YouTube video too optimistic?
>> 5) Am I going to regret this?
>> 
>> 
>> Thanks for the advice.
>> 
>> Cheers
>> 
>> 
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> 
> -- 
> Donald R. Strong
> Professor
> Dept. of Evolution and Ecology
> University of California, Davis 95616
> 
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