[C38] fuse panel replacement / upgrade question.

[Les Howell]

On Thu, 2013-09-19 at 20:12 -0400, Mixed Business wrote:
> hey all itz time to upgrade my elec system. I want to replace the
> whole panel and then require and upgrade to LEDs.  thinking about
> picking up a premade ready to rock panel from catalina direct. would
> either of the panels on this page fit the bill? 
> 
> 
> http://www.catalinadirect.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=category.display&category_ID=69
> 
> 
> if not, any suggestions? experience? wisdom etc? 
> 
> 
> I have a simple system. chart plotter, water pressure, cabin lights,
> bilge pump, some fans, radio, and 1 30amp shore power connection. but
> looking to add raw water wash down, cold plate refrigerator in ice box
> and eventually a windlass. anything I should consider? 
> 
> 
> I have two 27 series batts right now. was thinking of upgrading while
> I'm at it. (?)
> 
> 
> thanx in advance,
> 
> 
> mark o
> momentous 230
> Baltimore.
> 
> 
> 
I went with a friend and had a custom panel made.  Whatever you do,
think carefully about the circuits and labeling.  We used circuit
breakers because I was tired of the fuse holders and some were breaking
(age I suspect).  Anyway, there is very very very limited space behind
the panel.  I had created an interrconnect board which I wanted to mount
inside the panel so the panel would have the circuit breakers and  nice
cabling to the back and then a distribution panel with wire tie points
to make the connections to ships wiring.  I had to resize it because
while the panel was sufficiently small, I ran into interference problems
with the hull edge at the top, and the manner in which the shelf ran to
the hull.  You will have to measure carefully to figure this out.  I
thought I had it right, but my layout ended up masked by the hull edge
where it turns down and I couldn't slide it up under there because there
was no space behind the shelf inside the panel.  You'll see when you
open it up and take some measurements.  Anyway I ended up reducing the
number of connectors on the inside connection panel.  Also I used 12Ga
wire to the front panel circuit breakers, and that was really a bit too
stiff to make the bends easily and fit under the breakers.  Using 14 or
16 gauge there would have made the whole thing more tidy.  

Also the tie points I used were from west marine.  These worked well,
but the screws are not captive, which let me use ring terminals.
However, if you forget and loosen one to take the wire off, you can
loose that screw, and that is a heck of a place to find the screw.
Additionally there is fiberglass behind the drawers and the under the
floor wiring has to be threaded through that to get up to the power
panel.  It won't pass behind the floor pan because the clearance is too
tight.

Finally I strongly recommend separating the port and starboard cabin
lighting.  Thus when you are working on one side, the other side can be
on to light the cabin.

If doing rewiring you will find that lots of the wire is fiberglassed in
place, whether intentionally at build time, or just from laying in
contact with the epoxy over time I don't know, but you cannot remove
some parts of it.  I installed a anchor Wildcat, and ran either 2 or 4
gauge (I don't remember now) to carry the current to the bow.  That is
not too difficult, but tying it off correctly behind the cabin rails
over the bookshelves and behind the hanging locker is really tough.

Also, while you are in there I strongly recommend running a bit of line
from the fuel tank area up to the panel.  This can help you run new
wires when you add stuff to the galley or cockpit.

There is a bit of hose that has wires leading from the starboard forward
settee area though the bilge carrying the wiring to the mast.  I could
not run new wiring through this, so I left the original.  The original
ground is 10 gauge run from the power panel to the battery compartment.
I increased this because of the additional loads I had in my panel.  I
ran separate power and ground for the wildcat to keep that load off the
panel ground and power.

Anyplace you find the Y splices that were put in originally, remove
them.  Splice two small wires to one larger one using the larger size
barrel connector and twist the other two together then insert them into
the barrel connector, and crimp well.  Heat shrink or shoe goo over all
connections will help retard corrosion.

Get a good crimp tool before you start.  Those little thin things will
kill your hands and not make good crimps.  A tool that ratchets will
relive your wrists and give tighter crimps.  Use good sharp Diagonal
pliers for cutting all wires less than 10 gauge, and good lineman pliers
for wires over that up to 4 gauge and use a hack saw for the 4 gauge and
larger.  Get an impact crimper for the large terminals over 10 Gauge.
This works with a hammer because those big terminals are HEAVY DUTY.
Crimp twice on them about 1/4" apart.

That's my advice.  Otherwise most of the valuable info is in the
Boatmans 12 volt Bible.

Regards,
Les H