[C38] up-grading electrical system

[Les Howell]

Hi, Patrick,
	We no longer have our boat, but there are several thoughts I have...
Others will share theirs as well I am sure...
	1.  If not already done on your boat, I recommend circuit breakers.
Fuses are tough to find when at sea, and Murphy always followed me
around with his law book.
	2.  Separate the left and right side cabin lights so that when working
on starboard lights, port lights are on.
	3.  Put in an engine room light if none is there.
	4.  remove all the "3 way" riveted connectors.  Replace them with a
bigger crimp on and seal well with shoe goo or silicon.
	5.  make the connections for the bilge pump using water proof plug and
receptacle.  If you need to change the bilge pump, a connector makes it
easy and a well sealed one keeps corrosion to a minimum.  Go with gold
plated pins if you can find them.
	6.  Near the division of the starboard settee, in the back is a tube
containing the wires going to the mast.  Mine was very dirty from 20+
years of crud.  I wanted to replace it but couldn't.  If you go deep
enough into the job this might be on your list, along with a 12 power
connection of #10 or so for some sockets on the port side. 
	Access to some of the wiring can be found under the Galley cabinet that
forms the aft end of the settee.  Under there is all kinds of stuff,
including some of the fresh water tubing and in my boat the fresh water
pump located on a shelf under the galley storage bin.  I didn't know how
to do it, or I would have done some clean up under there.
	7  Others will point out changing the ammeter on the panel to a
voltmeter.  I chose to get a new ammeter with a shunt which I mounted in
the engine compartment.  I selected a 100 Amp setup.  There are
disagreements on which is better, so make your choice on who you trust.
	8.  If you keep a separate engine start battery, I recommend some kind
of automatic charger for the start battery to keep it topped off.  If
you are replacing your battery charger you might want to figure out if
you want an inverter/charger or an inverter with a separate charger to
have access to 110 when at sea.  Also if an inverter check out the
pure-sine wave types.  They are newer and make less noise.  I had the
psuedo sine type and the transformer noise drove my wife nuts.  But a
fast AC coffee pot is heaven on a cruise.  Use one with the stainless
caraf to avoid the continuous use of electricity, and preventing
breakage.  I popped one of the glass thermal types on a cruise and no
coffee until we could get another, well stove coffee, DUHH!!
	9. make sure to allow for autopilot, gps, and a separate circuit
entirely for VHF ( it should work even if the panel main breaker is
off.)
	10.  While you are at it adding extra 12 outlets for the VEE berth and
the Settee on both sides is a good idea.
	11.  If you are thinking of Solar panels or wind generator, these need
a 12V path to the battery that can be turned off/disconnected easily.
If going solar check out Blue Skies, they have one of the boost chargers
that will give you more charge time, and get the upgraded one for the
gassing of the batteries if you use lead acids with ventcaps (do not
gass charge a maintenance free battery unless you check their specs for
that capability).
	12.  If outfitting for cruising, check out the charge boosters.  They
will reduce your engine run time.
	13.  If you have the original engine, the alternator mounts will not
support a high output alternator (don't ask how I know!!!)
	14. There are a lot of different ideas on grounding any metal through
hulls or rails.  I won't comment, I'm no expert, just read as much as
you can and add the grounds you need when doing the rest.
	15.  If you are thinking of adding shortwave radio at any point add
that wiring and breaker at the same time, and add a ground plane.  Again
this is something that has lots of controversy.  Add it according to
whoever you believe.  Personally the suggestions in the Ham Radio books
on Marine Mobile seem pretty good.
	16.  If you can afford it, take your proposed wiring idea to a surveyor
and get his input.  These guys have seen everything, and especially if
you select one who has been in business for a while and knows cruisers.
	17.  Cimp all connections, use a racheting type crimper NOT ONE STAMPED
OUT OF SHEET METAL.  For engine cables use a hammer driven crimper or
take the cables to a good marine electrical shop and get them crimped
there.  I soldered mine, but it is a pain in the A**, so crimping is far
better especially with the right tools.  And they are not that expensive
(don't lend them out, they don't come back.)  On the smaller wires use
all marine terminals to crimp, with the heatshrink on them or add some
shoegoo or silicon and heat shrink to the terminals both sides.  Make
sure to put the heat shrink on first ;-)
	
	I hope this helps and maybe inspires others to respond as well.

Fair winds and following seas,
Les H
former skipper and chief mischief maker of JACE.

On Wed, 2015-03-04 at 05:30 +0000, 1derful at comcast.net wrote:
> 
> What upgrades are recommended?
>  
> Thanks,
>  
> Patrick Harpole
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