[C38] up-grading electrical system

Thu Mar 5 12:11:25 EST 2015

This was very helpful. Thanks Les

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Julian Adams
Department of Molecular, Cellular and Developmental Biology
University of Michigan
830 N. University, Ann Arbor MI 48109-1048
Tel. (734)-763-3431; Fax (734)-647-0884; Cell (734)-239-3627
E-mail julian at umich.edu
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-----Original Message-----
From: Les Howell [mailto:hlhowell at pacbell.net]
Sent: Wednesday, March 04, 2015 2:03 PM
To: listserve at catalina38.org
Subject: Re: [C38] up-grading electrical system

Hi, Patrick,
	We no longer have our boat, but there are several thoughts I have...
Others will share theirs as well I am sure...
	1.  If not already done on your boat, I recommend circuit breakers.
Fuses are tough to find when at sea, and Murphy always followed me around
with his law book.
	2.  Separate the left and right side cabin lights so that when working on
starboard lights, port lights are on.
	3.  Put in an engine room light if none is there.
	4.  remove all the "3 way" riveted connectors.  Replace them with a bigger
crimp on and seal well with shoe goo or silicon.
	5.  make the connections for the bilge pump using water proof plug and
receptacle.  If you need to change the bilge pump, a connector makes it easy
and a well sealed one keeps corrosion to a minimum.  Go with gold plated
pins if you can find them.
	6.  Near the division of the starboard settee, in the back is a tube
containing the wires going to the mast.  Mine was very dirty from 20+ years
of crud.  I wanted to replace it but couldn't.  If you go deep enough into
the job this might be on your list, along with a 12 power connection of #10
or so for some sockets on the port side.
	Access to some of the wiring can be found under the Galley cabinet that
forms the aft end of the settee.  Under there is all kinds of stuff,
including some of the fresh water tubing and in my boat the fresh water pump
located on a shelf under the galley storage bin.  I didn't know how to do
it, or I would have done some clean up under there.
	7  Others will point out changing the ammeter on the panel to a voltmeter.
I chose to get a new ammeter with a shunt which I mounted in the engine
compartment.  I selected a 100 Amp setup.  There are disagreements on which
is better, so make your choice on who you trust.
	8.  If you keep a separate engine start battery, I recommend some kind of
automatic charger for the start battery to keep it topped off.  If you are
replacing your battery charger you might want to figure out if you want an
inverter/charger or an inverter with a separate charger to have access to
110 when at sea.  Also if an inverter check out the pure-sine wave types.
They are newer and make less noise.  I had the psuedo sine type and the
transformer noise drove my wife nuts.  But a fast AC coffee pot is heaven on
a cruise.  Use one with the stainless caraf to avoid the continuous use of
electricity, and preventing breakage.  I popped one of the glass thermal
types on a cruise and no coffee until we could get another, well stove
coffee, DUHH!!
	9. make sure to allow for autopilot, gps, and a separate circuit entirely
for VHF ( it should work even if the panel main breaker is
off.)
	10.  While you are at it adding extra 12 outlets for the VEE berth and the
Settee on both sides is a good idea.
	11.  If you are thinking of Solar panels or wind generator, these need a
12V path to the battery that can be turned off/disconnected easily.
If going solar check out Blue Skies, they have one of the boost chargers
that will give you more charge time, and get the upgraded one for the
gassing of the batteries if you use lead acids with ventcaps (do not gass
charge a maintenance free battery unless you check their specs for that
capability).
	12.  If outfitting for cruising, check out the charge boosters.  They will
reduce your engine run time.
	13.  If you have the original engine, the alternator mounts will not
support a high output alternator (don't ask how I know!!!)
	14. There are a lot of different ideas on grounding any metal through hulls
or rails.  I won't comment, I'm no expert, just read as much as you can and
add the grounds you need when doing the rest.
	15.  If you are thinking of adding shortwave radio at any point add that
wiring and breaker at the same time, and add a ground plane.  Again this is
something that has lots of controversy.  Add it according to whoever you
believe.  Personally the suggestions in the Ham Radio books on Marine Mobile
seem pretty good.
	16.  If you can afford it, take your proposed wiring idea to a surveyor and
get his input.  These guys have seen everything, and especially if you
select one who has been in business for a while and knows cruisers.
	17.  Cimp all connections, use a racheting type crimper NOT ONE STAMPED OUT
OF SHEET METAL.  For engine cables use a hammer driven crimper or take the
cables to a good marine electrical shop and get them crimped there.  I
soldered mine, but it is a pain in the A**, so crimping is far better
especially with the right tools.  And they are not that expensive (don't
lend them out, they don't come back.)  On the smaller wires use all marine
terminals to crimp, with the heatshrink on them or add some shoegoo or
silicon and heat shrink to the terminals both sides.  Make sure to put the
heat shrink on first ;-)

	I hope this helps and maybe inspires others to respond as well.

Fair winds and following seas,
Les H
former skipper and chief mischief maker of JACE.

On Wed, 2015-03-04 at 05:30 +0000, 1derful at comcast.net wrote:
>
> What upgrades are recommended?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Patrick Harpole
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