[C38] Standing rigging

Marc-Andrea Klimaschewski marcklim at outlook.com
Wed Oct 26 00:42:34 EDT 2016


Thanks a lot for the suggestion, Joe. I thought about going asymmetric on a sprit and discussed it with handicappers and sailmakers. In PHRF NW they consider a 'long sprit' a reason to consider the boat an X-boat (meaning one off) and handicap it conservatively. I saw that you are doing well with a big a-sail and a 15 sec handicap but it still seems like a risky move here in the PNW.

We are currently building a code 5 A2 kite which we can fly tacked to the bow (when we are low on crew) as well as from a pole set low.

I am curious though, do you believe the bigger asym gets you better boat speed or is being faster mainly a function of easier kite handling?

Thanks
marc

From: Listserve [mailto:listserve-bounces at catalina38.org] On Behalf Of Joseph Launie
Sent: Friday, October 14, 2016 3:18 AM
To: listserve at catalina38.org
Subject: Re: [C38] Standing rigging


M arc

        Before you replace spin track think about replacing pole with Seldon adjustable sprit and assy chutes. Much easier and faster. Our sprit is 42 inches past the head stay Joe/Macavity

On 10/13/2016 6:36 PM, Marc-Andrea Klimaschewski wrote:
Hi all,

Image needs her standing rigging replaced. I did some research and have a couple questions left that I hope you guys might have answers to:

Shrouds: Standard dimensions (5/16" 1x19) seem perfectly adequate, maybe even a bit overbuilt. I am planning to replace with new 5/16 1x19 and mechanical terminals. Has anyone done anything different (dyform, rod, spectra)? If so, how do you like it

Chainplates: People have gone up a size for the bow chainplate which I am going to do as well. As far as the other chainplates go, any recommendations in terms of pulling them? I already have the head furniture apart since I installed new jib tracks forward of the lower shrouds. Any advice for taking apart the hanging locker? Is it even needed? Also, the main chain plates seem two part with one part glassed in the hull. The joint seems to have failed in some boats. Mine look OK externally. Has anyone taken this apart and re-glassed? Should it be done?

Mast: I think the only things I am going to do is replace the spinnaker track with a Harken ball bearing one, move main and spin halyard winches to the deck (like Peregrine), run new wires and install new lights. Any advice about the mast step? Has it been a problem? For the racing boats, how do you fix the mast to the step in order to comply with ORSs?

Running rigging: New sheaves and blocks, will add a mast collar and deck tie down to lead halyards aft. Looked at a bunch of pictures from other boats and I think I got a handle on it. Anything to be aware of?

Boom: This is the big question: Keep it or replace it? I want to install a rigid vang so I need to stop it from rotating. Does anyone know if the gooseneck fittings catalinadirect sells work with our booms? Has anyone replaced a boom? How do you like it? I feel like it would be nice to be able to run reef-lines internally in order to have less chafe points for spin sheets and maybe go a couple inches longer in order to be able to put full pressure on the foot of the sail. It would also be interesting to remove the reefing winch and save some weight.

Any insights are greatly appreciated

Cheers
marc




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