[C38] duffs exhaust from hell (Alden)

Sat Jun 7 00:37:55 EDT 2008

Duff, attached are some pics of what I did in takeing the lazertt out
and moving the muffler so I would have easy access to the rear of the
engine. These are the first pics before I finished the project. I will
take more pics this weekend of the finished product. There were only 4
bolts holding the muffler down before I moved it you will see a pad in
the pics where the original installation was. I feel your pain that's
why I cut out the lazerett so I could have better access. 

Alden Andre
Office: 877-550-FJ44(3544) or 503-618-1951
Cell: 503-929-8814
Fax: 503-907-5507
Email : alden at clifforddevelopmentgroup.com, or alden642 at comcast.net

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Today's Topics:

   1. Exhaust manifold/exhaust flange on Universal 5424/M30.
      (Duff, Russ (R.W.))

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Message: 1
Date: Mon, 2 Jun 2008 10:28:46 -0400 
From: "Duff, Russ (R.W.)" <rduff at visteon.com>
Subject: [C38] Exhaust manifold/exhaust flange on Universal 5424/M30.
To: tdtron at earthlink.net, Catalina 38 Listserve
	<listserve at catalina38.org>
Message-ID:

<9247DE6E9F2A6E4888AF8253506BF9D512CE90C8 at vistex101.vlgdc.visteon.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Well, to quote Tom, my life has "become pure hell."  Yup, the stud
snapped
off. After crying like a girl for a few minutes while looking at the
tight
space and imagining the hell of what it would take to remove the exhaust
manifold, I looked at things again and thought it won't be too bad, but
it
still $UCKS THE BIG ONE!!  Best case, I can just get a drill in there
and
drill the old stud out and re-tap a new hole and either insert a new
stud,
or just use a bolt.  Worst case is the muffler is in the way so I will
have
to remove it first, and maybe remove the hot water heater before
drilling
and tapping the manifold. (Am I correct in assuming only a few screws
are
holding the muffler in?) I actually had to do this before on the engine
in
my Bronco when I noticed one of the bolts that held the intake manifold
in
place had sheared off.  I was able to drill and re-tap without removing
anything, using the manifold as a guide for the drill. Also, it looks
like
I'm not the first one this has happened to; the bottom fastener actually
has
a bolt, not a nut on a stud like shown in the drawing. While I regain my
courage, I will figure out how to get the rest of the pipe out of the
flange, and rebuild the exhaust pipe.

On an aside, I think I remember a discussion a while ago about who
actually
made Universal diesels. I would like to know this to try to find a local
source for parts in the future; one: to save time, and two: to save
cost.
Does anyone know who this is and what their model number is?  Thanks.

I suppose I could just go totally retro; it is a SAILBOAT; do I really
need
a motor ;-) ?

Sincerely,
Russ Duff
Catalina 38, Hull #112
"AVANTURA"
Lake Erie
Grosse Ile, Michigan
RDUFF AT VISTEON DOT COM

AVANTURA AT COMCAST DOT NET

  _____  

From: listserve-bounces at catalina38.org
[mailto:listserve-bounces at catalina38.org] On Behalf Of Tom T.
Sent: Thursday, May 29, 2008 4:39 PM
To: Catalina 38 Listserve
Subject: Re: [C38] Exhaust manifold exhaust flange on Universal
5424/M30.

Hi Russ,

I think I used galvanized pipe and I also had a problem getting the old
manifold flange off.  PB Blaster is the trick. Soak it with PB, down a
beer,
soak it again, down another beer, etc until either the flange stud comes
out
or you pass out first.

  If you do break off that last stud, your life will become pure hell so
let
the PB do the work and take your time.  I soaked it over night and the
next
morning it was very easy to turn.  (no, I didn't drink all nite)

Tom T.

----- Original Message ----- 

From: Duff, Russ (R.W.) <mailto:rduff at visteon.com>  

To: Catalina <mailto:listserve at catalina38.org>  38 Listserve

Sent: 5/29/2008 2:17:01 PM 

Subject: Re: [C38] Exhaust manifold exhaust flange on Universal
5424/M30.

Thanks for all of your replies so far. I went down to the boat over
lunch to
get a closer look and the part is the same as that show on the Torresen
site. It turns out just the pipe has snapped. What type of pipe should I
use, black gas pipe, galvanized exterior gas pipe, plumbing pipe, or
something else? Also, is there anything odd about the threads, or are
they
standard NPT? (No, I'm not rebuilding everything with stainless, I just
want
to get it running). I removed the riser portion to take it home and
remove
the broken section from it, but I am not sure how I will get the piece
out
of the exhaust flange; it snapped off flush with the outside. Any hints?
I
tried to remove the flange but could only get one nut off. I didn't want
to
strip anything so I will go back down this weekend with some PB Blaster,
a
torch, and 6 point sockets and wrenches (my 12 points wanted to strip
the
nuts).  Thanks again for the help.

Sincerely,
Russ Duff
Catalina 38, Hull #112
"AVANTURA"
Lake Erie
Grosse Ile, Michigan
RDUFF AT VISTEON DOT COM

AVANTURA AT COMCAST DOT NET

  _____  

From: listserve-bounces at catalina38.org
[mailto:listserve-bounces at catalina38.org] On Behalf Of Duff, Russ (R.W.)
Sent: Thursday, May 29, 2008 9:10 AM
To: Catalina 38 Listserve
Subject: [C38] Exhaust manifold exhaust flange on Universal 5424/M30.

It's always something; at least it couldn't have happened at a better
time.
We finally got the boat launched yesterday, and while pulling into the
slip,
the exhaust note changed and there was no water coming out of the
exhaust.
It turns out the fitting where the exhaust hose clamps onto the exhaust
manifold snapped off. Luckily this is a separate part bolted on to the
back
of the exhaust manifold; the exhaust flange. My question is, is this a
single cast part with a round opening/neck that the hose clamps onto, or
is
it a cast threaded part with a round opening that a pipe is thread into
(1981 model C-38)? According to the Torresen website, it is a threaded
opening.  Unfortunately, because it was late in the day, I couldn't get
a
good look at it, but the neck didn't seem to be as long as what is shown
in
Torresen's picture. I am hoping that just the pipe snapped, and not the
flange. It sure would be nice not to have to spend $81.07, plus
shipping,
and instead just go to the local hardware and buy a section of pipe. If
it
is just the pipe that snapped, what kind of pipe should be used? If
anyone
as any experience with this, please let me know.  Thanks. 

Sincerely,
Russ Duff
Catalina 38, Hull #112
"AVANTURA"
Lake Erie
Grosse Ile, Michigan
RDUFF AT VISTEON DOT COM

AVANTURA AT COMCAST DOT NET

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