[C38] bilge pumps

[Les]

Hi, Ken,
	I am not biased in any way, but most reputable sites will tell you not
to put check valves in bilge pump lines.  One way to minimize back
flushing is a riser tube in the pump line, that goes from the pump up to
above the water line somewhere amidships, with a siphon break at the
top, like that used on the muffler systems.  This would then reduce the
back flush to about a glass full.  It is too bad that there is no "sump"
to speak of in our bilges.  I haven't implemented that yet.  One of the
other posters spoke of using two pumps and adding a float switch on the
shower sump so it would work as a bilge pump as well.  That sounds like
a good idea, backup, plus if all three are working, that's a lot of
water going out.

Regards,
Les H
On Sun, 2008-02-10 at 19:38 -0800, Kenneth M. Sutto wrote:
>     Here,s the problem. My bilge pump works fine except that when it
> shuts off all the bilge water in the outlet line runs back into the
> bilge. It's like I ever pumped it out. There is always about a half a
> two gallon bucket left floating. I want to put a check valve  just
> past the pump to keep the water from running back. My worry is that
> once the line is full of water and the pump kicks in, will it be
> strong enough to pump out the water in the line plus what's in the
> bilge. I don't want to have to end up with some kind of 35hp ejector
> pump that sticks up through the floor boards 2 feet with a hose the
> size of a fire hose and needs four extra batteries to run it.
>     Anybody with the same problem?
>  
>     Ken              Sundancer
> 
> 
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