[C38] Stereo Insatllation

[Les]

I trimmed the other comments to make this message smaller... 
	There was an article I saw somewhere that detailed how to create a
speakerbox to fit behind the cockpit coaming.  This would address the
swamping issue I saw someone comment on.  

	Basically you find a cheap bowl that will fit over the speaker. Use it
as a mold.  Glue, screw, or somehow attach the bowl to a board, cover
the works with saran wrap (my method), and then cover it with fiberglass
cloth to the depth that suits you and form a lip around the bowl.  Make
it as thick as makes you feel secure, but probably 1/4" will be
sufficient.  Once it sets up you can finish it as you see fit, but
remember that it won't be visible anyway.  This speaker bowl is mounted
inside the coaming, surrounding the speaker cutout, tabbed in like any
other fiberglass fitting.  Drill a small hole for a grommet and pass the
speakerwire through the grommet.  Connect the speaker and mount it.

	This enclosure will represent an infinite baffle to the speaker, but if
you want some relief, you can add a small vent under the speaker to let
out moisture and condensation and provide a baffle relief.


As we only coastal cruise I didn't feel the effort was worthwhile on
JACE, but this works and has appeared in several articles and in various
forums.  It is also a nice "first" project for the budding fiberglasser,
as it is not visible, so the inevitable boo-boos won't show up in the
final product, and it is small enough that do overs are not
prohibitively expensive.  My advice is to get the measuring pumps for
the epoxy and catalyst, use small cloth strips for an odd shape and
experiment.  Some alternatives for the mold include papermache,
construction foam, and wood.  Whatever the mold is it has to hold up
under about 200 degree temps which accumulate as the epoxy kicks off, so
that leaves out modeling clay (been there done that, ugghhhly) or
similar materials which can deform at higher temps.

Materials:
	epoxy 1qt
	activator to match  NOTE: get the same company's products and get
fresh!!!!
	mixing cups (the plastic ones designed for epoxy use are graduated on
the sides so you don't need the pumps for small projects like this, but
measure carefully the mix is critical to proper cure and strength)
	disposable brushes (trim them short so they are stiff to help ensure
saturation of the cloth)
	cloth.   Note that there is cloth, and matrix stuff.  The matrix stuff
is stiffer and harder to work for small curves, so I recommend cloth.
Don't try the tape for this as it is meant to run for long relatively
straight runs, and its bias control will prevent taking a curve unless
you cut off the nice edges.
	Saran wrap.  I prefer this over molding compound as I invariably have a
holiday in the molding compound and things glue to the mold.  But if you
are good with your hands, you might do better than I do.
	Drop cloth  If you are like me, only cover about 300sq feet.  I manage
to get it everywhere.  
	Gloves.  Epoxy materials can cause severe skin allergies.  I prefer the
blue ones that come up to about 1/2 the distance to the elbow when fully
extended, then I fold them down about 1" to catch drips when I raise my
arms.  
	OLD clothes.  Once epoxied, they are disposable.  Or some of those neat
disposable painters overalls.

	I use an old piece of particle board on sawhorses for epoxy stuff.
Again I get it everywhere, so my old particle board is messy, but I get
to use it over and over.

	Of course for the wealthy, there are premade boxes available on the
market.  You can google or yahoo for suppliers.  But come on, you
haven't really gotten over mudpies have you?

Regards,
Les H