[C38] difficulty starting

[Steve Smolinske]

Last year I started a small simple project I was going to replace my alternator with a higher output model.  That grew into replacing the engine wiring which in turn led me to rewiring the engine panel and since I was working on the circuit anyway properly attacking the batteries and the charging circuit.   Some things that I noticed and learned along the way were #1 the original wiring harness is a scary piece of equipment, plugs were loose, it was cracked and taped together.  So I upgraded the wiring from the 14 or 16 guage that it is wired with to 10 throughout.  Im a firm believer in less resistance even if 16 is adequate.  #2 removed the amp meter and installed a voltmeter thus routing the start battery to the starter rather than the control panel.  I also installed a circuit breaker inline from the alternator to the batteries and then another at the batteries.    I had to upgrade my automatic charging relay and installed a new battery charger.  #3  battery terminals per ABYC should have no more than two (2) connections at the stud any more need to go to a bus bar or grounding post.   
 
Im not an electrical expert but have enough experience to make me dangerous and I realize this.  So what I did to save money was diagramed out the layout then forwarded it to an expert in our area.   For a nominal fee he reviewed the diagram, added suggestions and even made a visit to check the final work.  He made a few additions to my diagram so that the work was to ABYC standards.  I may still have the diagrams I drew up if anyone is interested.     
 
Steve
#312 Peregrine
Seattle
 

________________________________

From: listserve-bounces at catalina38.org on behalf of Chuck Finn
Sent: Fri 11/26/2010 10:42 AM
To: Catalina 38 Listserve
Subject: Re: [C38] difficulty starting


David,
I see we are thinking along the same lines!  Ever since Tom T. made us aware of the dangers of our amp meters and Larry M. had is fire, I have been thinking of the last high amp draw that goes all the way from our battery, to the control panel, to the engine.  That of course is the glow plug circuit.  When you think about it, this is another really dumb idea for two reasons.  First is the possibility of wire fatigue/wear and fire.  Second is the voltage drop.
My thinking is the best answer is re-wire the glow plug circuit with an inexpensive starter solenoid ($15).  This will dramatically shorten the wire distance and reduce the chance of fire.  It will also eliminate the last high amp connection to the wire harness and control panel.  I am thinking starter solenoid because they can handle much more than 20 amps and are off the shelf.  Will also install a 25 amp in-line slow fuse.

This seem like such a simple answer that I am worried I am missing something....  Especially since solenoids have been around forever!

Thoughts?

Chuck Finn
Commodore

On 11/17/2010 12:18 PM, David Epstein wrote: 

	Patrick,
	
	One possibility is the wiring to the glow plugs and/or the switch.   The later models include a solenoid for the glow plugs so that the higher current (about 20a for all three plugs) is not reliant on the wiring harness and the switch itself.  In my online search, I learned that people reported a huge difference in the effectiveness of the glow plugs after installing a solenoid, and a much shorter "warm up" before starting.  I am in the process of installing such a solenoid on SuperStar along with replacement of the engine control panel.
	
	Did you change the engine mounted fuel pump, or the electric "lift" pump?  Also, do you have problems starting when the engine is warm, or only when it is cold?
	
	David Epstein
	SuperStar #122
	Marina del Rey
	
	
	
	
	


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